Wandering Where We’ll Be

In 1985, while on a camping trip along the north shore of Lake Superior with my (Tim’s) family, my two brothers (Joel and Mark) and I hiked to Lookout Mountain in the Cascade River State Park. From Lookout Mountain we were able to overlook the Cascade River valley and Lake Superior below. Though it was probably only a few miles round-trip from the campground, it seemed like a long hike at the time. And, the trail continued. Not as the Superior Hiking Trail, which didn’t exist, per se. But, as a continuation of the trail running through the park. Not wanting to worry (further?) Mom and Dad, we didn’t continue from Lookout Mountain, but headed back to the campground. My thru-hike in the summer of 2008 was — in some ways — undertaken to find out what was beyond Lookout Mountain — to stitch together all of the pieces of trail I had previously hiked and to see in one backpacking trip all of the magnificent sites along Lake Superior in Minnesota.

The following is the journal of my Superior Hiking Trail thru-hike. It’s certainly no prose. I often use incomplete sentences with no subject; usually the subject is “I.” I often omit articles (a, an, the). It’s just what I did each day on the trail and in camp.

Photos of my thru-hike are here: Thru-Hike Photos

Sunday, June 29

My partner, Dan, and I marched in the Twin Cities Pride Parade Sunday morning. I play percussion in the Minnesota Freedom Band, and Dan helps out by being part of the group that twirls flags out ahead of the band. After the parade, we went right home to do last minute packing and to pick up Jake (our dog).

We stopped at a wayside rest to walk Jake and, later, to get gas. In Grand Marais, we had supper at Sven and Ole’s (pizza, of course) and then ice cream, too.

We continued on to Judge Magney State Park, where we found a site, set up camp, fed Jake and, then, walked up to the Upper Falls and Devil’s Kettle on the Brule River.

Monday, June 30 – Day 1

Got up at about 6:30 am. Had donuts and juice for breakfast. Broke camp and drove up to the Otter Lake Road trailhead (northern terminus of the Superior Hiking Trail, less than a mile from the Canadian border). I did my final packing, said “goodbye” to Dan and Jake, and set out at about 8 am (guess).

The first part of the trail is a recent logging road and was very swampy and thick with mosquitoes. I had my two base layers on, and the mosquitoes were biting my arms through the long sleeves of the outer layer. Plus, I was getting too warm. I finally stopped, took off my long-sleeve shirt – leaving just my short-sleeve shirt) and spread insect repellant on my arms. This was much better.

The trail became drier as it rose in elevation, but was overgrown in many areas. It’s clear that this section of the trail gets less use than more southern sections.

I ran into two solo day hikers today and a party of three nearing the end of their south-to-north thru-hike.

Got into camp (South Carlson Creek campsite) in mid-afternoon; set up camp, treated water, dried shoes, rinsed socks and a shirt. Had backpacker spaghetti for supper. Nice evening, but mosquitoes are still bad. Headed to tarptent to write/read.

Tuesday, July 1 – Day 2

Got up and had grapenuts for breakfast. While I was taking the food-pack down, the twig I used to hold the food in place caught on the mesh bag and ripped it. The liner bag was fine, but if the rip grew larger, it could make hanging the food more difficult. There was a breeze that I couldn’t be sure would last, so I decided to delay setting out in lieu of patching the food bag. I cut a square of spinnaker nylon from the inside flap of one of the stuff sacks I made. It’s not pretty, but it’s working for now. [I later added squares of duct tape to the inside and outside of my patch.]

I didn’t see any backpackers today, only day hikers at Judge Magney State Park. I had lunch just upstream from Devil’s Kettle behind a big, rock wall. It was cool, shady and mostly bug-free! Actually, the bugs aren’t as bad as yesterday, beginning at Judge Magney. Got rid of some trash in the state park.

Arrived at South Little Brule campsite in afternoon; set up tent, hung food, treated water, washed short-sleeve shirt and socks and washed up a bit. The river flows right past my campsite, including some rapids and a small falls. It’s a really nice afternoon with a breeze, so fewer bugs.

Had supper (rice dish), and the bugs began to come out with sunset. Headed into the tent to read and, then, sleep.

Wednesday, July 2 – Day 3

Had a good thunder/lightning/rain storm last night. It didn’t seem too windy, just heavy rain. The tarptent kept me and my things mostly dry. The foot end of my sleeping bag got just a bit damp.

Had oatmeal and tea, broke camp and took off. I was up with the sunrise, so got an early start. The trails were even more muddy due to the rain last night. Shortly after starting out, I crossed Highway 61 and walked along Lake Superior’s shoreline for 1.5 miles. This was very pretty and peaceful, with the sun coming up. I saw a deer along the shore. Crossing back over the highway, I hit the mud again. Today was tough-going for some reason. I just couldn’t keep enough food/liquid in me, but I think it had more to do with not wanting to stop in the thick of mud and bugs. The constant wet feet resulted in a couple blisters; I’ll have to tend to them before starting out tomorrow.

Wildflower Hill was amazing! Oranges, yellows, whites, purples… There was a wild, orange lily that I haven’t seen before.

Stopped at Cliff Creek for lunch. Hiked along Devil Track gorge and finally arrived at East Devil Track campsite. Today I saw more people on the trail: a party of three backpackers (mom, dad and teenage son, I think), a couple (day hiking), a mom and four kids day hiking along the Devil Track gorge, a solo day hiker, a couple (staying at West Devil Track campsite) and a solo backpacker (female) doing Gooseberry to Canada and then back to Gooseberry!

Cleaned up and rinsed some clothes, including pants, which were really muddy and gross. Had miso soup and noodle dish for supper. Cleaned up and went into tent to escape the bugs.

Thursday, July – Day 4

No rain last night. Woke pretty early, broke camp and headed to Pincushion Mountain. Took the spur trail to an overlook of Grand Marais. At the Pincushion parking area, I had a signal on my mobile, so tried to call Dan; he must have been sleeping. It was before 8 am. I called and got a hold of Mom; talked to her a bit. It was good to talk to her, and she was glad I called.

The trail, after crossing the Gunflint Trail (paved road), went up to what seemed to be an old railroad bed. Then, the trail went through a beautiful, red pine, then fir/spruce, then maple forests. I had lunch at South Bally Creek Pond campsite – hummus on tortillas and I opened the gouda cheese – yay, new cheese!

I was planning to stop at the North Cascade multi-group campsite for the night (16.8 miles for the day), but I made good time on the state trail (old rail bed?) and I wasn’t too impressed with the North Cascade campsite. So, I went the extra 2.3 miles to Cut Log campsite.

As I was setting up camp, a guy came and asked if his party of nine could stay at the site. I said, “Sure.” The site officially has three tent pads, but they were able to find space for their three tarp/net set-ups. The group consisted of seven high school students and their two leaders with a group sponsored by Wheaton College in the Chicago area.

I went to the small stream (tributary of the Cascade River) to treat water, rinse clothes and clean up – very nice stream for this purpose! Had rice dish for supper. A couple who were day-hiking gave me two granola bars – their extras – very nice of them and a tasty treat!

Friday, July 4 – Day 5

Broke camp and took off about the normal time. Went through many beautiful maple forests today. Had snack/water breaks at Spruce Creek and East Lake Agnes, which was beautiful and, at the moment – bug-free. I thought about staying, but moved on to West Poplar River. East campsite appeared to be taken, although no tents were set up yet.

After setting up tent and hanging food, I cleaned up and rinsed clothes in river. Had backpacker’s spaghetti with gouda cheese for supper. The campsite was kind of a mess, so I started a fire and burned some of the partially burned wood that was strewn about. Read a bit outside, then, in the tent.

Saturday, July 5 – Day 6

Broke camp and headed for Lutsen Mountains. I thought I might be able to get a good meal at the restaurant, but they didn’t open until 11 am on Saturday. The shop didn’t open until 9:30 am, and it was only a little after 8 am. Darn!

Mostly maple forests today. Did spur trail around the top of Oberg Mountain. One of my toes was getting a blister, so I stopped at the Onion River campsite to mend it and, also, eat lunch. Continued to Springdale Creek campsite. The creek wasn’t running very fast, so just rinsed out a couple things. Had rice dish for supper. Read a bit in tent. Two guys stopped by on their way northeast; liked my tarptent.

Sunday, July 6 – Day 7

Woke at 4:45 am to thunder; thought about setting down quickly, but decided to just bring food, water and stove to the tent and eat my oatmeal with tea. Rain passed quickly, and I began to get ready. I just had the tent left to set down, and it began to thunder again. I set it down, and just as I was ready to leave, it began to hail (pea-sized) and then rain. It rained lightly until I got to Britten Peak; then cleared off. Hiked to summits of Britten and Carlton Peaks. Got to Temperance River Wayside about 9 am. Bought some bug dope (I was concerned that I might run out.) and pop at park office. Dried raingear, shoes, feet and socks. Sewed pants in a couple places.

Dad, Joel, Mark, Tyler, Parker, Derek, Ben and Tony met me at the Temperance River Wayside at about 11, I think? We drove into Tofte to have pizza for lunch at the Coho Café; the pizza tasted great, and it was good to hang out with family! They drove me back to the wayside and handed off the bag I had prepared with four days worth of food.

The hike out of the Temperance River gorge was hot, sunny and very steep! Stopped at Ledge campsite on the Cross River and set up camp. Rinsed clothes and self in the river – felt really good after the hot hike. Took a short nap and read. Had noodle dish for supper. It was still warm out, so I took another dip in the river.

Tags: Backpacking, Superior Hiking Trail, Superior Hiking Trail Thru-Hike, Thru-hike

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