On-the-Road Tales

Headed to the boat Thursday morning. Vessel caried about 22 people and the group was from Argentine, Italy, Japan, Korea, and some Suisse. We managed to communicat in a bad mixture of french and spanish. About 30 minutes out of Puno, we stoppd in Uros. These people, trying to find a haven from fighting tribes all about the lake decided to just live in the water. Hey why not. There boats were made of reeds, or rushes as we call them in Ireland, and they latched them all together. Eventually. they just made islands with layers of the reeds. There houses, watchtowers, boats verything are made of this. They keep a small pool of open water in the middle of their islands for fish nets or washing. Here is me complaining about my stuff being wet and these people live in a lake! Bizarre. You can even eat the reeds. See Grace — all those yers of trying spongy rushes and turns out they are rich in Iodine and calcium.

Next we headed to Amantani, an island about 2 hours out. This is the largest lake in the AMericas, so more like a sea. I figured the captain is from centuries of seafaring stock so when we began rolling and rocking and visions of the Baltimore water taxi accident went through my head, I hoped seamanship would prevail. Our guide was originally for the island and very knowledgable. Her description of the history and beliefs was impressive. The preincan people. obseesed with science, astronomy and philiosophy had actually figured out the pi and based their chocana cross on its masurements and all their monuments wre based on mathematics and important angles and trig equations. We eventually docked with several people looking green and were met by the islanders. I was told to follow the woman standing before me in traditional dress, Liliana. I headed up a field after here with my bag in tow. Over walls, through potato fields, ascending all the way. We got to her house and I was given a room and a typical lunch of rice, french fries and soup. SHe had 4 children, the oldest about 8 carried the youngest on her back as everyone does here. Yesterday I was passing homesteads from the past, today I was living in them. There was no electricity, no running water and all the cooking was done in black pots over the wood driven fire by candlelight. The eco latrines put in by the govt were adobe huts which consisted of a hold in the ground.
I met the group and we headed up the mountain, stopping often as the air at 4000 meters was even more difficult to exert in. Finally reaching the top which was a temple dedicated to the god of everything above. You could see around the whole lake. Had some wonderful pinchina (sp) friends pancakes with honey. When I arrived back at the house I ate dinner with the family in the small, room containing the fire. There were not seats and a dirt floor so we sat on planks of wood. The family soke Quechua but the father spoke spanish so we conversed. After dinner, the little girl helped me dress by candlelight in the traditional garments for the evenings dance. Okay, I bitched about climbing the hill before…now I was doing it in the dark in a freaking corset. It was not pretty. Got tothe hall where there were 2 bands playing and the kids had us out dancing. Again. nothing is easy at 12000* feet. Everyone kept stopping to get their breath but it was a great night. Lots of laughter and through the few break in the clouds, the stars were stunning. Headed back down the mountain for a surprisingly peaceful nights rest on a straw mat.

Yet another early rise, some vacation this is….left Cusco for the Eastern City of Puno. Took a tour bus which made 6 stops along the way to various markets and musuems, including a high altitude stop of 4200 meters! I think the scenery on the first valley outside of Cusco was the most amazing I have seen so far. As we rolled along, it did not disappoint. I was struck how the countryside reminds me of what Ireland must have been like 70 years ago. The hills are green and the fields tilled and planted with all sorts of crops. The houses are made of adobe, cut form nearby fields and stacked like turf. The roofs are Andean grass, so they appear just like thatched rooves. The men are out cutting the corn with scythes and the women are shepherding groups of sheep, cows, donkeys, alpacas or a combination of all! far from the homesteads all in traditional dress. The only difference is 21st century modern life exists and rolls past them less than a mile away in buses outfitted with video equipment and bathrooms which there houses do not even have. It is like a step back in time.

We visited a preInca museum in Pukura and I was struck by the zoomorphic stone carvings and their similarities to the ones I have seen in Ireland. Zoomed by the Intl airport in Juliaca, it was nice to see an ATC tower again and a B737. We arrived at our final destination around 1730. I found a hostal and I was prepared for the cold temperatures I was warned about up here near Lake Titicaca. What I was not prepared for was the hail, and fork lightening storm that ensued as soon as I was too far form my hostal to grab a rain jacket. All hell broke loose and it was impossible to shelter in a cubby as the wind kept changing direction and depositing chunks of ice on my jumper. The people were running arounds the streets (aka now full running rivers of rainwater) laughing. I could help but think that if this was happening in NY or DC, the folks would not be smiling. I had to crack up bc the scene was mayhem and struck up a friendship with another refugee who assured my this was an isolated occurence! yeah. I still have to make it back to the hostal so I am not assured yet because I can still hear it lashing out. Off to some remote island tomorrow and since they have no electricity, updates are out of the question for a bit…signing off…

My calm demenour wore off quickly in the morning when my stupid hotel decided they were ont going to provide the breakfast I paid for. I decided to get out of there before I started raving like a lunatic and headed out at 0800 with my luggage and a 1600 train to look forward to. THe train station decided their left luggage room really is not and the only place in town to watch the bag was, yup at the top of the mountain, so I headed again towards the heavens. Fortunetly it was a stroke of good luck as the day was much better. I was able to see the city in its entiriety and after a few overall pics decided to climb Wayna Picchu, the mountain in the background of all the classic post card snaps shots. There is a 400 person limit each day so I headed that direction.

I soon became aware of why there was a limit. While the summit is only about 300 meters above the city, it is all climbing, no gradual slopes here. I do not consider myself a quitter, but hey twice on the way up I seriously contemplated turning back. Between the altitude, the sun, the heat, and the silly halfstep you were required to navigate, i was questioning the wisdom of the decision since noone would notice for a while if I passed out and fell off the side. I guess that is why they make you sign in and come looking if you do not sign out by nightfall.

After an hours climb, the first tunnel presented a problem as I had to choose if either me or my backpack would go through because the two of us were not going to fit. Fortunately there were somejapanese fellows on the other side in the same predicament and we made a chain and everyone and thing made it through. I ascented the last ladder to the tippy top of the mountain and the views were incredible. There were a hundred butterflies up there just frolicking about at breakneck speeds, not stopping long enough for even one photos but everyone was a different colour and size. Peru has the most species of mariposas after Brasil.

I chatted with a worker up there who fixes the stone paths the tourists are constantly unsettling. I decided never to complain about my commute again since his commute every day consists of a hellish, slippery, 45 minute scramble in all kinds of weather to the top of a 2700 meter precipice. I wanted to give up again on the way down but that was not so much an option and I finally got to the bottom, collected my thing and headed tot he train station. Drank 5 liters of water while chatting with a Canadian couple on the 4 hour ride back.

I arose at 0500 to the sound of pattering rain on the tin roof outside my room. Erggg, did not sound like seeing sunrise on the lost Incan City was going to be a possibility. Caught the first bus at 0530 and rose zig-zagging form the jungle floor to the top of the mountain containing a potential candidate for one of the new 7 world wonders. As we neared the top the mist morphed to deep fog and my first vision of the mysterious city was further intesified by the floating clouds. It was amazing. A fortress of incredible landscape design and architechtural ingenious in the clouds. My guide flaked but I was put with another English speaking guide and given an overview of the site. I met up with a philly irishmen and we passed the day waiting for the clouds to lift for a halfway decent photo! An offraod traveller as well, we swapped stories about gallivanting around the world and he gave me some good advice regarding my Cambodia itinerary, thanks don!

When we gave up on it clearing and were throughly soaked, we headed down the mountain. It poured on the ground for the next few hours. That evening, I headed to the thermal baths, natural hot springs which they divert into a pool and then fill with salt and natural stones. Sitting in a steaming pool of water as the twilight faintly outlines the jungles peaks surrounding and the river rushes by with Bob Marley blaring on the stereo? yeah that is about as mellow as one can get without artifical help! Returned, now with more wet clothes to my mildew reaking room, but I was too relaxed to care.

Well, early start and on the 4 hr trip to Agua Calientes, the wee town which exists solely to support Machu Picchu. Cramped train but it afforded a unique view of Peruvian culture which consists apperently of getting up at 0600 on Sunday morning to play football in every town along the way. Still not sure why the population rises so early. Lovely trek through the Sacred Valley with the landscape changing to humid jungle mountains as we neared our destination.

Against my better judgement, I had booked with an agency who would provide my hotel and guide. As I ascended to my dank room which smelled of mold and sounded of construction hammering, I figured the promise I was given of a hot shower would make it worth it. Took a quick gander around town and returned to the room to make it an early night so I could make sunrise at the top of the mountain. In my cramped shower/toilet stall, I was basking in the fact there was pressure and the temp was perfect, warm and controlable though, looking back, I should have recognized a problem when the rubbish bin went floating past. I stepped out of the bathroom, sans contacts, into a big puddle. Huh…I all too soon realized my entire room was flooded due to the shower drain not functioning and all my worldy contacts were steeped in inches of water. It got more interesting as I was scrambling to get dressed and opened the room door to the sound of a waterfall. All the water was cascading from under my second floor bedroom door onto the first floor balcony. As I peered over people were strategically placing buckets to catch the waterfall! I soon realized, my ability to spek spanish disipates exponetially with my anxiety level. Aghh! Dry towels! A Mop! were not commands in my vocabulary. The staff were less than helpful and refused to move my room, dry my things etc. I was cranky and just wanted to get to bed for my early start so I caved and slept in my waterhole looking forward to the next days sights.

Had a bit of a lie in this morning and parted with the host family. Headed into town with a taxi driver who was teaching me Quechua and Aymara along the way. Talked to mom whoi told me about nasty storms in Florida. Ick. CHecked into my comfy $6 a night hostal and enjoying my last day of free internet.
Going to stop at the Irish establishment for dinner to se if I meet up with the owner who is a fellow Carlow Peruvian friend of Pats.

0530 departure in the morning for the train to Machu Picchu, yeah!

Final day of classes. I went with my professor to the Cathedral. Some amazing artwork. During a devasting earthquake in the early 1600s, the people took a statue of christ from the church and processed through the streets and the tremors ceased. Since then, the people have revered this statue and process once a year in the Plaza.

Overall in the 2 weeks I made some great spanish progress, I can chat away with the taxi drivers with minimal problems. THe things I learned about the culture, social issues, family life would have been impossible without the family homestay and 6 hours of lessons a day. The vocubulary you use on a daily basis itself makes learning abroad worth it. Now if I can just keep it up.

After receiving our certificate the gang sans Attie who left for volunteer work in Lima, headed out for a quiet night at the Enlgish bar, Cross Keys on the Plaza. Cool chicas, everyone is headed in a different direction – chile, colombia, arequipa etc. I hope to meet up again one day with them.

Went to Museo de los Ninos. An effort where a group goes into remote Incan villages, and work with the children to help them promote their culture and learn education through art. These kids have not yet been exposed to TV or the outside world and their works focus on what is important to them, ie nature. Each mountain is considered a god and contains a spirit, there are animla which also encompass this spirirt in another form, ie a condor. It is heartbreaking to see the condition under which they live and go to school. The Andeans are referred to as the forgotten ones since the government does not provide much or any assistance. SOme of the problems can be attributed to tourism since most of the men are off portering for the Inca Trail and are not home to repair the building etc. On the other hand they also make a salary that was not possible before.

It was Atties (Australia) last night so we stopped over for a Pisco sour, then headed to San Blas for amazing, less than 2$ hamburgers. Juanito had 12 different types of saues to dress up your burger, olives, garnish, berries etc. We headed to mythology for a dance session. Salsa is big here and it was fun to watch before it switched to a disco tech. The group Susan (UK), Maroes (holland), Attie (Aussie), Anabel (France), Sarah (Suisse) enjoyed the night and I bailed at 0130 as the young 18 year old dutch girls were still partying.

Life at over 11000 feet has its annoyances. For instance, since all the bottling plants are in Lima or other parts of the country at sea level – without fail – the bottles of water you open, especially with bubbles, overflow and make a right mess. This goes for anything closed ie it is fun to explain why you have toothpaste all over the place. No mentos needed here for spectaculer diet coike fountain displays! Additionaly, they do not warn you in the guide books that lotions utlising pumps are a bad thing because well the pressure differential just overcomes that little obstacle and squirts stuff everywhere. Liquids at this altitude boil at a lower temperature so the soups etc get about luke warm, nothing is piping hot.

We had some rather deep discussions in class yesterday regarding social problems in Peru, lopsided justice etc. It is better economically than in the past but there is still no employment for a majority of the country. It is necessary to pay for university but when you get out the only decent money is teaching english for instance. The pay might be 2$, considering we pay the school about 10$ per hour you wonder where the rest of it goes. Most people have several jobs just to make ends meet.

Another day of classes. Even after more than a week, it is very unnatural to get used to not ingesting any water, even to the point of wetting your toothbrush, all agua must be bought or boiled. The shower at the host family has hot water, a welcome addition until I tried it out. The hot water is via a small electrical device attached to the shower head and there is one knob so you get scalding or frigid. No middle ground. Oh and if you touch the exposed wiring on the shower head with your wet hands, well yeah, you can die. Hmm think I prefer the cold shower.

We came in the other day from the rain and one girl was trying to download some photos with the USB and got a nasty shock. So more than just the showers are not grounded here. Once I find a safe USB port I may try and upload some photos!

Attended a fabulous presentation after class last night on Puno and Lake Titicaca. Puno is the folkloric capital of the country. The women were traditional costumes of 20 skirts which are supposed to represnet the colors and shapes of the Andes. I have read that they have found seashells in the banks of the Lake and the professor said it was true. It is believed that the highest navigable lake in the world, at upwards of 12000 feet was once at a sea level and shifting of the plates pushed it to its present location. The Incas believe the Isla in the middle of the lake was their birthplace. Some scientists in recent years using sonor techgnology to scan the lake bed have discovered, the remains of an ancient civilization once believed to be on the banks but now underwater. Sadly, this may be exposed once again for the wrong reasons as Peru is rapidly losing its glaciers at several feet per year dues to once again global warming.

The presentor talked alot about the spiritual and intellectual knowledge of the Incas and how their civilization existed in another dimension per se. ie they had a greater linking with their surroundings and the earth and our rational thinking these days does not allow us to fully comprehend the extent of their culture. He discussed the combination of Inca tradition and catholicism that exists )as introduced by the conquerers) and said how many people are reverting to their natural religion.