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Day 119/120 – Luxor, Hot Air Balloon

Monday, May 21st, 2007

We sailed some more up the river then grabbed a minivan to join the convoy to the city of Luxor. We checked out Karnak temple, the markets, the oil and perfume making, natural alabaster, all sorts of egyptian stuff. We took a horse and carriage to dinner just to add to our transportation list.

Another early start, a minivan picked me up and stopped along the way to grab the pilot who would captain our hot air balloon over the Valley of the Kings. We used a ferry to cross the Nile and then watched as they readied our baloon. We climbed in, about 4 people on each side of a basket and 8 people to a side for a totoal of 32. The Captain was in the middle and turns out the owner of the company. Very safety concious and competent bloke from what I gether which was good considering I was about to risk my life with him. This was my first time in one and I was thrilled. We lifted off smoothly and started ascending over the area. There are over 30 temples ytou can see fomr the air and it was phenomenal. I also got an unexpected view of life in Egypt that I never would have realized from any other craft except this one. As we flew low at one point over some houses I realized, many of them do not even have roofs. There were 2 or 3 beds in the mud courtyards with 2 or 3 people in them each. I can not imagine waking up at 0600 in the morning to the whooshing sound of fire filling the balloon with 32 tourists staring down at you and all of your loved ones in bed. It was incredibly odd. The situation was not improved by our Egyptian Captain calling out in a haughty english accent…”would you pleazzze put on the kettle for a cup of tea!”. I felt like Alice in wonderland with these tiny people in a bed, in the dirt, staring up at me.

We landed safely in a hayfield next to workers collecting the grass and the Captain insisted on a ‘landing safely celebration’. The drums cames out, all the balloon handler people started singing and then all the women were pulled in to dance. So there we were singing, dancing chanign partners even, in a hayfield at 0700 in morning with donkeys and locals onlooking, as a hot air balloon deflated behind us. Wow. Can not even describe how wierd that whole thing was. My theory is these guys with their culture under normal circumstances are not allowed to get that close to women never mind dance! but hey it was memorable.

We met up with the rest of our group, saw the colossi,Habu temple and then climbed inside some tombs where all the Pharoahs were buried. These chambers are just crazy. Decorated from floor to ceiling and carved from solid rock, they are a testament to the next life they were preparing for.

That afternoon, we went for lunch at a family’s house in a small village. The food was great and plentiful. Eveyone else in my group got sick from some other meal but since I stuck to kebabs and hummus most of the time, I was OK. They had tried a stew type dish filled with questionable meat – ‘unidentifiable food’ (as Nancy calls it). I had opted out which turned out to be a good decision. Pigeon was also a local speciality but again, exotic foods are one of those things I do not have FOMO for!

It was incredibly interesting to talk with the three daughters in the family and see how they live. This family owns a business in the area and I would guess they are considered well-off and yet their lifestyle is basic. I was completely blown away with the mud brick oven on the roof they use to bake their bread! They prepare the dough, half bake it by laying it on the roof in the scorching sun and then fire up the over in the 39 degree heat for breakfast and lunch! It was madness. In the 21 century, people using the sun and mud ovens for bread. Wow.

Sent the rest of the day milling about town buying rocks. Yep, lots of neat rocks here as well and we boarded the train at 2130 for another overnighter to Cairo…I think this tops my mode transportation in one day list covering all surfaces – train, van, boat, balloon!

Day 118 – Felucca down the Nile

Monday, May 21st, 2007

This morning, the 9 of us boarded a Felucca, a traditional sail boat to cruise on for the next 24 hours. It is basically one big cushion covered overhead by a swath of fabric so there is absolutely nothing to do except lie and get really really mellow. Of course, this simplicity comes with its setbacks such as – no toilet on board. Thus you risk dehydration by not drinking so that you do not have to announce to the Captain you want the boat pulled over to pee on the side of the Nile as a man on a camel wonders over a dune!

No, it was an outstanding experience. Given my inability to sit still I jumped at the chance the Captain gave to help sail. My eagerness was quickly quelles as I nearly got flung off the boat trying to lean on the rudder to steer against a strong wind. As I am sliding down the running board, losing the battle with the current, and my fellow boat members watching me nervously as we veer towards a concrete bridge post – he stepped in to help me. He gave me a rope to help hold the pressure which made it much easier so before ong I was tacking like the best of them, hopping every time we reached the shore to the otherside to reverse direction. We sidled like this up the river for about 8 hours. Around sunset, we docked along with 8 other feluccas filled with tourists on a deserted shore with donkeys and dogs.

Since we were spending the night sleeping on the boat, we dug an outdoor latrine with a curtain and all. Yep, another one of those experiences I will never be the same because of! The deckhand had spent the entire trip preparing our meals, peeling carrots, fresh potatoes so we had a wonderful candlelit meal on our felucca. Since we had a 0630 launch, and it had been an exhausting day sitting doing nothing, everyone bedded down around 2200 which is precisely when the drums started. All of our boats are owned by the same Nubian family and it was like a party for them all getting together without the wives and families so the night was just beginning. I am certainly afflicted by what one of the girls calls FOMO – fear of missing out – so up I got to join the campfire with the dancing, singing and merriment of the “Nubian Disco”, it was something special.

The night sleeping on the Nile, at the edge of the Sahara was surprisingly cool and we were piled with blankets. I could just imagine the briskness in winter…

Day 117 – Abu Simbel, Egypt

Monday, May 21st, 2007
0300 wake up call Yikes. My roommate and I both fell back asleep and got up 15 minutes later to roll downstairs. We slugged into the van and got to our location at 0400 to meet the convoy. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 116 – Philae Temple, Aswan Dam, Nubian Village, Camel Riding!

Tuesday, May 15th, 2007
We got breakfast on the train and it was great countryside watching everyone working in the fields along the water, walking to school, using donkeys for transport. The train pulled in around 0830 and after a short van ride ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 115 – Pyramids of Giza, Sphinx

Tuesday, May 15th, 2007
We enjoyed some tasty Hibiscus juice for breakfast along with something similar to Baklava and loaded into our minivan. We were enroute to the Pyramids! Yeah! We crossed the Nile in the relentless traffic and could see them ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 114 – Cairo, Egypt

Tuesday, May 15th, 2007
I arrived in Cairo at 0600 after an 8 hour flight. On a promise to mom, I joined a tour for Egypt with a company called Intrepid. Not much of a tour person, these guys are ideal. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 113 – Last Day Siem Reap Cambodia

Saturday, May 12th, 2007
Cambodia has a ton of charity projects evidenced everywhere sponsered by Australia,Germany, US, England etc. I think it is great but I am not sure what makes it so prevelant here when many countries I have visited need help. I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Days 111/112 – Beng Melea, Siem Reap

Saturday, May 12th, 2007
We hired a car to go check out another temple,Beng Melea. No restoration has been done here and unlike Ta Prohm, the jungle has not been pinned back so it is in the wild. We gota young girl who guided ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 110 – The Boat from Battambang

Saturday, May 12th, 2007
It rained all night and we could just envision the road trip back so we opted for another journey. We were warned the river was low and the fast boat would not be operating which normally takes about 4 ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 109 – The Dancing Road to Battambang

Friday, May 11th, 2007
Nancy and I decided to go check out another town and headed to Battambang. There were no recommended busses - and when the locals tell you things like that, you tend to listen. We hired an aircon taxi ... [Continue reading this entry]