Day 3 – Long Neck Tribe
Our next day of trekking was much more interesting. We were picked up in a van, which was very full with about 12 of us. Mia, the guide, was hilarious. A true comic, she stood in the front of the van, looking at her audience and spoke into a microphone. Obsessed with Madonna and kareoke, we were able to catch up on all MTV TRL hits that we had been missing. Repeatedly, Mia threatened us with having to sing karaoke, told us about the history of Thailand and about the past and present culture, explained how the elephant was revered and dryly told us that elephant was on the menu at lunch – tastes like chicken. Our first stop was the orchid garden. It was simply breathtaking for anyone who likes tropical flowers. The hybrids that were created were unique and the orchids hung high and flowed like rainbow water.
Next was to Chiang Dao Cave, a Buddhist temple built in an underground cave. The stone statues inside were cold and smooth, some surrounded by offerings and burning candles. The cave floods during peak rainy months and cannot be accessed. Quietly, we trekked through the cave and the dripping stegalites, enjoying the severe drop in temperature.
Third stop was at the Akha village. Tribal garb is unique – they wear strange winter like hats, which tie underneath their chin and are adorned with silver balls, embroidered tops and skirts. Most of them chew on a combination of herbs to permanently stain their teeth black over many years; they believe that black is more beautiful. Some stretch their earlobes to the size of a lemon. The demeanor is unmistakable. They are very pushy and adamant that you buy from them. Unlike the long neck tribe, they go to the large cities to wander the streets with their handicrafts, approaching you by making a frog like noise from a frog carving and sometimes as easy to get rid of as hay fever in spring. It was here that Mia explained to us the importance of the frog carving. We had seen them everywhere and hadn’t made the connection, presuming that they were toys for children. Instead, the carvings are made to create a frog like chant so other frogs are lured out from the jungles to be caught, cooked and eaten. They are pushy and competitive because also unlike the long neck tribe, they work for themselves, not as a group. Nonetheless, it was nice to see them in their environment, away from the city. Next time that we see the cart of fried frogs and insects on the streets in Bangkok, we will visualize the frog calling carving and never think of it in the same way again. We took some photos and bought a home made doll for our niece and headed on.
Last stop, the long neck tribe Karen ladies, a 3-hour drive into the mountains. Mia had been going to the village for years and knew the members very well. She told us some of their favorite snacks and how the children don’t care for candy, so we stopped before hand to buy some snacks for the kids. The women believe that the longer their neck is, the more beautiful they are, like the swan. Starting very young, the girls begin to wear heavy rings around their neck, gradually adding more every couple of years until they are much older and have approx 27 rings. While adding inches to their necks, they take years from their lives – their life expectancy not far past 50. Mia explained that at a young age, the women are given a choice to continue to add rings to their necks or not. If they choose not to, they can continue to live with the tribe or leave, some voyaging to the city. She sadly explained that eventually the long neck tribe would vanish replacing their rings with city life.
We personally met the children, the teens, young women and old. We were able to spend some time with them and laugh with them. They were very proud of their beauty; youngest of girls wearing makeup with crimson stained lips, bright flowers in their hair. Their trade was also weaving. We watched as they wove scarves and hung them above for sale- appreciative of our interest to photograph them just as much as our purchase of a scarf. We handed out all of our snacks, fervently thanked them for allowing us to see a glimpse of their lives and left with a humbled heart.
Tags: Travel
pcschroeder
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