ChrisJenTravel.com – Honeymoon Trek

Tongariro National Park is located in the center of the North Island. The region is filled with contrasting landscapes, from alpine mountain forests and streams to barren volcanoes, craters and emerald lakes. It is best known to outsiders as the backdrop for the hellish Mordor in the Lord of the Ring Movies. For its beauty and accessibility, it is also regarded as New Zealand’s finest one-day hike. We set up in nearby Turangi where we rented the necessary gear and arranged a drop off and pick up. Our hostel, Samuri, was a quiet and clean hostel with a very helpful owner who insisted on giving us all the tools we needed for our broken down car. The 7-8 hour, 17 km hike is one-way so we would have to leave our car behind, which we were happy to do given its recent starting problems.

Geared up with boots and rain gear, we made some PB&Js, ate breakfast and headed out to catch the bus to the hike’s entrance. The day began relaxed with a jolly, hippie Maori driver who dropped us off in the middle of nowhere at the start of a dirt path. Although we had all day to finish the hike, we hoped to make it to the end for the earliest bus possible so we could get to the next town with enough daylight to find a place to stay for the night. Little did I know, to Chris this meant we were in a race. Team Schroeder vs Team Everyone Else! As most of the others got settled and situated we high-tailed it down the path getting a quick start. The trail began with a gentle ascent over low brush for a kilometer or so, with empty landscape around us framed by some pristine mountains in the distance. Then crossing over a few small rock-filled streams, the trail quickly turned rougher, steeper and more volcanic. Chris began to set goals of passing every other hiker within eyesight, while refusing to let anyone catch us from behind. Anyone who passed us could potentially be someone taking one of our bus seats. Team Schroeder would not be passed!  I laughed as I caught Captain Chris looking over his shoulder with slight paranoia making sure no one was creeping up from behind. As the hike grew more difficult the views became difficult to ignore, even with “the others” close behind. We found ourselves stopping often for pictures of the surrounding mountains and reached an area of pure volcanic rock, an endless horizon which looked more like being on the moon than anywhere we had ever been. We walked down a dry riverbed and looking ahead we could see the easy trail quickly turned straight up over rock and boulders for as far as the eye could see.

For the next two hours we climbed hand over foot up the roughest rock terrain we had ever seen – Team Schroeder didn’t stop to rest! The brush grew thinner but the colors of the rocks grew more varied as we rose (each step huffing and puffing like chain smokers). We were both amazed at how beautiful the barren formations could be with very little plant life in sight. Looking back over our shoulders to get a glimpse of the view as much as possible we kept a brisk pace, passing those who needed a rest. Not so much survival of the fittest, more like survival of those with the most feisty competitiveness! As the faintest signs of muscle soreness started to creep in, we both thanked God we hadn’t tried to climb Mt. Taranaki just a day before. Continuing up, we reached peek after peek, each time thinking we had come to the top only to see the trail climb further up in a different direction (of course with new people we needed to catch). Parts of the path were solid steadfast rock while others were loose pebbles that crumbled down under you with each step. Finally, we reached a huge flat crater and paused in utter awe at the sight. Mountains in varying shades of black, brown and red rose in every direction towards the clear blue sky. To the North and West rich green forests tapered off to the horizon. To the East you could make out the edges of Lake Taupo, the largest lake in the country. And to the South, the view was just like that of Mordor in the film: harsh, volcanic, hellish, but beautiful. We looked down over chasms of rock that looked like they had been blown apart leaving sharp, red covered formations. Red Crater, an enormous empty cavity, which looked as though we had landed on Mars sat hollow and empty.  Dark garnet, bright reds and burnt terracotta mixed with adjacent blacks and graphite-colored earth to create a striking scene.  We stood in awe as the wind grew colder and the dry haze covered us in a thin film of dust.

Climbing a little further, we came to the highest part of the trek at 2100 meters and the pinnacle of the views. Just below, the three Emerald Lakes sat nestled among the peaks in sharp contrast to the barren black rock. The Emerald Lakes were lifeless and serene, the perfect crystal clear aqua blue – brighter than the sky, a secret oasis somewhere between earth and heaven. We sat for a short break to take in the view and enjoy a bite in the cold sun. Heading down, the ground was pure gravel and dirt as thick as a new layer of powder on a ski slope.  Other people were descending with great caution.  Unable to find a trace of footing, Team Schroeder slid in a zig-zag manner, pretending to be Olympic skiers, leaving a huge cloud of dust behind and laughing as we slid to the bottom.

The path leveled out for a short time and we headed towards Blue Lake, the largest of the 4 lakes. A short climb led us on a narrow path around a ridge from which we could again see Lake Taupo, mountains and forest on the horizon. Coming over the peak we saw Blue Lake extending out before us, framed in on three sides by mountains. Aptly named, the lake was pure azure in color and as large as a mall parking lot. We paused to enjoy its beauty but still had hours of hiking left. The trail descended back through brush-covered mountains, then through streams flowing from snow melting from above. It was opposite of our ascent that morning, the plant life was gradually brighter and more varied. To the side of the trail natural thermal springs bubbled and steam filled the air with the smell of sulfur. Our knees, calves and feet began to ache; each step brought a different pain – some dull and achy, some sharp as needles. Even so, Team Schroeder kicked it up a notch! When others would rest, Team Schroeder would go in for the kill! Finally we reached the rim of the alpine forest; it was like ducking our heads underwater. The endless, hot sun disappeared into the shaded and damp canopy of the forest. After an hour and a half of clunking our heavy feet down the wooded trail and looking to make sure no one was “on our tail” we came to a small waterfall and rapid filled river, which led us to the finish.  We made the 8 hr hike in 6 hours. Enthused and exhausted we laid on the ground and waited for our bus.  Ironically, we finished so early that we waited for an hour.  Triumphantly, Chris gleamed as those we passed trickled in behind.  For once we were excited to get in our car and sit for the ride to come. We laughed the entire way “home” at the notion of us winning a race that no one knew about but us.

This entry was posted on Tuesday, March 6th, 2007 at 5:57 pm and is filed under Travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.