Dharma bums

Thursday night and we’re about to leave Phnom Penh. It’s hard to believe we’ve only been here since Tuesday. The city is a blur of activity; there is something (or many things) to see everywhere you look…

motorbikes, cars, scooters, cycles, pushcarts, peddle carts, pedistrians, SUVs and trucks all weaving constantly along…no stoplights, stop signs, traffic cops, speed limits or apparent rules…but it all works

life happens on the streets and sidewalks with street pedlers cooking on charcoal burners, women selling gasoline by the soda bottle, boys and young men playing marbles in the dust near the corner, women working sewing machines and motorcyle mechanics repairing motos side-by-side on the sidewalk. Everywhere the sound of scooters, horns, and men calling out “Tuk-tuk, Sir?”

Every morning saffron robed monks with yellow parasols going out to collect donations…families on their fishing boats along the Tonle Sap River…the many Expat bars, restuarants, and businesses we sampled (thanks to Neil) in just a few days:

* Sea and Sand – owned by a frenchman named Stefan…buckwheat creps and Italian-style fish
* Pancho Villa’s – owned by Randy (from Canada) and Andy (from Madison, WI)…bordeaux wine and local treats…a bar like no other
* Rock Zone/Zepplin Cafe – an all “vinyl” Rock-n-roll bar and cafe run by Ju-an, a 60s & 70s rock-n-roll fanatic from Taiwan, who personally picks & plays the music on his twin turntables
*The Boom-Boom Room – MP3 s for your iPod on a disk – $1/album (no copyright laws in Cambodia)…and
*SpunCambodia.com – one of a kind clothing (and t-shirts) from Cambodia (Neil and Poojah’s business)

Vast markets with stall after stall of cheap clothing, fake Rollexes, fake Nikes, fake North Face backpacks, fake Channel sunglasses…you name it, you can get it cheap and fake at the Russian Market, or the Central Market, or any number of local markets and shops.

Tomorrow we leave for a motorcyle trip north up to Preah Viahvar, near the Thailand Border, to explore the countryside and see a temple. Then we’ll head to Siem Rep, near Angor Wat. It may be a few days before you hear from us again.

A few images from Phnom Penh (there will be more later)…

Boy selling birds along the Tonle Sap River

Outside the Palace

Sambo the elephant

Lakeside (Boeung Kak Lake) – backpacker’s haven

Lakeside Mosque

Local boys

Boy and boat

What can I say about our colorful friend Doug?, it is hard to narrow it down to just one incident.

Day One-My fellow dharma bums Norm and Don and I arrived at the Shanti Lodge only to discover that they hadn’t held our rooms and, at 3:00 AM no one else in the area had rooms available either. Doug went off with his “fiance” and we thought that might be last we saw of him until our return flight, this thought came with no small relief. It was not to be.

We stayed up the remainder of the night/early morning drinking beer and observing the incredible sights, sounds and smells of the awakening market just accross the street. It turned out to be a fabulous time for us to fully unite the Dharma bums, Don and I had just met prior to our SFO departure. By about 10:00 in the morning we finally got rooms at the Sawatdee Guest House across the alley from Shanti Lodge.

After a very full day(the events of which Don detailded on the previous blog)we went to bed about midnight, our jet-lag forgotten, only to be awakened at 5:00AM by commotion right outside our rooms. I awoke to an unmistakeable voice asking the hostess for a strong drink, when she didn’t immediately understand he spoke louder. He wasn’t much interested in the coffee she offered, he wanted something STRONG! Our friend Doug had unknowingly found us again.

So began Day2.

Dharma Bernie

We left San Francisco on Friday afternoon and arrived in Bangkok at 2 am Sunday morning, loosing a day to the date line and much comfort to the small seats and cramped leg room.

Our party consisted of Normano, Bernie, Don, and Doug. Doug was only going as far as Bangkok, where he would meet (for the first time) his wife-to-be “Jetta.” Doug would stay in Bangkok, getting to know his future bride, while the rest of the Dharma Bums headed to Cambodia. We would meet Doug on our return to Bangkok on January 19th and return together to the USA on the 20th.

Our adventure began in earnest when we reached the Shanti Lodge in Bangkok at 3 am to discover that there was a mix-up with our reservations and we had NO rooms. We were on vacation and couldn’t let a little problem like that get in the way, so we bought a few beers at the 7-11 and waited for the morning to come (with the promise of a room and bed) at 10 am.

We discovered a massive open-air market across the street that stretched for several acres with literally hundreds of stalls. The market didn’t open until 6 am, but by 5 am the street was buzzing with motorcyles, cars, trucks, and people bringing vegitables, meat, fish, and lord knows what to the market in a frenzy of preparation. By 6 am we’d had enough beer and were ready for breakfast!!

By chance, we lucked upon a marvelous stall for breakfast run by “Diamond.” She served us rice porrage (rice, pork sausage, pig liver, fresh peppers, and broth – mixed together and poured into a bowl containing a fresh raw egg). Delicious!!

After breakfast, we returned to the Shanti Lodge and were told that they still had no room for us – and wouldn’t anytime soon. However, they arranged for to stay right next door at the Sawadtee Inn – another backpacker’s hide-away. The rooms were sparse and cheap (400 baht – $10/night), but they did have their own bathrooms (however, no towels, toilet paper, or hot water). Home sweet home!

The rest of our stay in Bangkok had one theme – “It’s all about us”- as we rested and indulged ourselves. These indulges included daily shaves at the barber shop, the famous Thai massage (involving much pressing, pushing, pulling, and gouging), the almost as famous foot massage (more pressing, pushing, and pulling), a pedicure and haircut (for one lucky Dharma Bum), noodle soup, and several brands of Thai beer.

We also managed to wander around town to drink in the local flavor, support the street food vendors, find the department store, sample public transportation, and take a Tuk-tuk to Pampit Plaza, the gartantuan electronic gizmo bargain complex.

It was very challenging for us to travel across the date line and against the clock. It became clear just how challenging it was, when we discovered on Sunday night that our flight to Phnom Penh was NOT the next morning (Monday), but Tuesday morning. No problem!! More time noodle soup and local flavor.

Phra Pinklao Bridge on the Chao Phraya River – 5 minutes from Sawatdee Guest House

Local Market

Fly PhuketAir

Nearby temple

Our whistles are wet, our bags are in the back , the plane looks ready to fly. I like the look of silver in a plane. It looks strong and fast. Bag of Valium® hid in my sock and ready to go on a minutes notice.

Theses are the thoughts of the Dharma bums. Action is our middle name – and why not? We have years of practices at things like this. Our mothers were bred to feed the sea of adventure.

Ride up and down.

My mates and I are getting set to go east…way east…. I’ve got my passport, sunscreen, bug spray, shots, malaria pills, hiking boots, and travel blog. While we travel, I hope you enjoy the trip!!!

We’re going to Cambodia and we’ve got a blog. Now, can we get pictures up?