Recent Entries
June 27, 2004


We got a bicycle rickshaw to Agra train station and I felt so bad for the driver with the weight of our bags that I paid him double. Ash's train was 3 hours earlier than mine, which left at 23.30,...

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Posted by Rowena at 03:00 PM
June 25, 2004


I wondered whether the Taj Mahal would be a let-down after having seen so many pictures of it, but it was absolutely spectacular. Looking at it through the gardens and canals it was imposing and serene. Close up, the marble...

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Posted by Rowena at 02:45 PM
June 23, 2004


The doctor at the hospital in Ranthambore looked like an Indian version of Mr. Darcy from Pride and Prejudice. Unfortunately, neither he, nor any of the other people there spoke English, and it was a tiny, dirty place. I was...

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Posted by Rowena at 02:39 PM


We emerged from the car in Pushkar, and were immediately scammed. Ash asked the whereabouts of a guesthouse we'd chosen, and some boys gave us directions. They followed us and we found ourselves at the sacred lake, where they shoved...

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Posted by Rowena at 02:26 PM
June 21, 2004


We arrived in Delhi and after a shower, travelled by car down to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. It's known as the "Pink City" because it was painted that colour (symbolising hospitality) in honour of the Prince of Wales' visit...

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Posted by Rowena at 02:10 PM
June 20, 2004


It was around 35 degrees, airless and dusty, when the bus rolled to a stop beside the river gorge. 14.30: time for prayers, and the Muslim clergyman (priest? cleric?) got up at the front behind the driver and started preaching....

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Posted by Rowena at 05:08 PM
June 16, 2004

Dal Lake

Lake Dal - in the middle of Srinagar - was beautiful, surrounded by mountains and dotted with shikaras (gondola-like boats with canopies). It was connected to three other lakes by a series of canals bordered by lillies and little houses...

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Posted by Rowena at 04:52 PM
June 15, 2004


The following morning, we flew to Kashmir. In retrospect, this was not a good idea. We were persuaded by the travel agent's talk of a ceasefire, and by speaking to tourists who were up there, but it is against FCO...

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Posted by Rowena at 04:41 PM
June 14, 2004


I navigated Delhi airport with Ash, who I'd sat next to on the plane. We got a taxi to the hostel I'd booked, and peered out at the dusty streets with ramshackle storefronts and people sitting around and sleeping. The...

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Posted by Rowena at 04:28 PM
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