I wondered whether the Taj Mahal would be a let-down after having seen so many pictures of it, but it was absolutely spectacular. Looking at it through the gardens and canals it was imposing and serene. Close up, the marble is cool to the touch and inlaid with stones in intricate flower patterns. You can take your shoes off (or wear naff orange shoe covers if you're prissy about going barefoot) and walk around and inside the building. Outside, a team of oxen were mowing the grass. I was reluctant to leave - it is truly a beautiful sight.

We also visited the Red Fort, and got caught in a thunderstorm (the monsoon had just begun). We sheltered with two large Indian families, who wanted to shake hands, find out about us and take photos. With the constant attention you get, travelling in India can make you feel like a celebrity.

But celebrity or not, I was hot footing it out of India as soon as I could. Feeling a lot better but still not up to the long trip to Varanasi as we'd planned, I'd changed my train ticket to go straight to Bombay.