Lake Dal - in the middle of Srinagar - was beautiful, surrounded by mountains and dotted with shikaras (gondola-like boats with canopies). It was connected to three other lakes by a series of canals bordered by lillies and little houses and shops on stilts.

The far shore of the lake was home to rows of houseboats - ornate floating guesthouses accomodating mainly Indian tourists (there was only a handful of other Westerners). We stayed at Dandoo Palace, in rooms at the back, on a patch of dry land. From my window I could see: the mountains; the neighbours' shaggy goat; a large vegetable patch with pumpkins growing up bamboo canes; a canal used by kingfishers and the occasional canoe; and lots of eagles circling (and perching - look closely!). The noise of all the jackdaws cawing and frogs singing was nicer to wake up to than the honking of Delhi traffic.

The family who owned the boat was an extended one and even after four days I still hadn't worked out all their names and relationships. They were very welcoming and warm (especially the grandfather and two younger brothers), but big on hard-selling us treks, tours and crafts. After a good couple of hours trapped in their office, we convinced them that on our limited budgets, we really couldn't afford to fork out hundreds of dollars, but they kept hassling us until the end of our stay.

Also staying on the boat were a friendly Indian family, an unfriendly elderly English couple, two Swedish girls who were (literally, ha ha) in the same boat as us with regards to having tight budgets, and a Belgian called Caroline, who'd been there - believe it or not - for eight weeks.

We spent our time exploring the lake by boat, admiring the view from the verandah of the houseboat, and helping to rescue a mountain goat from the cooking pot.