Bikaner was one of the worst experiences I had in Rajasthan. I was lonely in a horribly polluted and seemingly uninteresting Indian city -- and Indian cities are difficult places to be, even at the best of times.

But I was glad to have gone there, if only to visit the amazing Rat Temple, which I saw as I drove south, on my way back to Jodhpur. The only such temple in the world, it is a place of worship, where Rats are not only welcome, but fed and adored. Indeed it is considered a good omen if a rat touches you or scampers over your foot...

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