Seeing Dead People in BA
I love cemetaries. I always have. My brother had to suffer through the Necropolis in Glasgow with me, and I’ve got a few tales about Pere LaChaise in Paris. If there is a cool cemetary in a city, it becomes one of my top spots to visit.
Buenos Aires has Recoleta Cemetario. As with Jim Morrison in Pere LaChaise, this one has a star occupant as well, Eva Peron. In Pere LaChaise you can find JM by just following graffiti scrawls that say “The Lizard King This Way”. Not so in Recoleta. Everyone is wandering around confused looking for Evita. I stumbled accidentally on her mausoleum and the only reason I noticed it was the large number of flowers on it.
I didn´t really care if I found her. I was too intrigued with the different types of graves. Some of the mausoleums are really old and crumbley – these were usually my favorites. Often the doors were no longer locked and you could actually walk in. I felt that was a BIT weird for me, and just the musty smell of death would keep me from entering. I also liked the ones with a lot of cobwebs on them. These people were really dead – anyone would have maintained their grave or paid for it to be maintained, were long gone themselves.
Then there were the newer structures. These looked like they were mini-shops with fancy glass doors. At any moment you expect someone to open the door and say “Yes, we´re open!” Lots of these had photo portraits of their occupants, usually at their best, with brass fittings on the floor, and lace coverings for the caskets.
One of the things I found a little odd in this cemetary was that many of the coffins were still on view. The crypts are under the mausoleums, so they can be used for many family members. The coffins would be sitting in an open room, until the next person died. So literally, you are not buried, but on view. All the coffins on view looked the same as well, as if there had been only one coffin maker for the last hundred years. Same shape, same handles. Same everything. Some of the oldest mausoleums actually had coffins sitting outside and exposed. Very weird.
After spending a few hours with dead people and photographing their mortuary statues, I spent the next two hours searching for a man I was told to look for. A friend through BnA asked if I was heading to this market, could I look for this certain guy who made earrings out of chain mail? I am always happy to wander through artist markets, especially when it´s right outside the cemetary. I spent two hours browsing, with no luck. I chatted with some sellers, asked around, but no luck finding the mystery man. Sorry Cristi! I tried.
After a few hours of browsing, I hailed a cab. As anyone who has read my blogs before knows, I HATE CABBIES. This was one just awesome. He and I chatted in spanish about all sorts of stuff, most of which was different to the usual conversations I have had. He was a sweetie so I tipped him more than the usual rounding up to the next peso on my fare.
Tonight I might see some tango or grab a nice juicy steak. I´m not sure yet. Depends on if I can get a hold of some friends of my cousin. No luck yet but I´ll try again in a bit.
Anyway, here are some pics from today and yesterday.
Claudia
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