Days 280-287: West Bengal and almost Bhutan
Darjeeling, Siliguri, Madarihat, Jaigaon, and almost Phuentsholing
Many travellers had told us how tough it is to travel in India. So we were pleasantly surprised to find out it wasn’t that bad after all. In fact, with the exception of constant deafening noise, it’s actually incredibly pleasant. We also got kicked out of our first country.
We crossed the border into India and took a “share jeep” to Siliguri and then Darjeeling. A share jeep is slightly larger than a normal jeep, but they’ve squeezed in three benches and put four people onto each bench. Good and cozy. The twisty ride up to Darjeeling follows the track of a narrow-gauge “toy train” and is incredibly scenic. Darjeeling is known for its tea and there were plantations everywhere. The hilly town has great views and served as a gentle introduction to India.
Darjeeling is more than just tea leaves. It has a nice view of 4 of the 5 tallest peaks in the world (or so we’re told).
Kelly tip-toeing through the tea leaves.
We joined the Darjeeling Planters’ Club for a day. This was a nice place to chill and drink lots of really good tea under the watchful gaze of huge ibex skulls on the walls.
Marcus rather enjoyed a spot of tea at the Planters’ Club. They required proper pinkie etiquette.
Angry dude on a mural at the Bhutia Busty monestary in Darjeeling.
We have heard that the Indian railway system is fantastic once you figure out how it works. To make a long story short, it took six hours over two days to buy a train ticket out of West Bengal and the only one we could get was straight to Delhi. With some time to spare, we headed to the India/Bhutan border to see if we could visit the “Land of the Thunder Dragon” for a day.
Bhutan is one of the least visited countries in the world, probably because they charge US$200 per day for entry to the country. The country has hardly been touched by the outside world, has Himalayan peaks and terrific monestaries, and is supposed to be wonderful to visit. There was a loophole to this $200/day rule if you visited from the town of Jaigaon in India and didn’t spend the night in Bhutan, in which case the visit was free. However, we found out the day before we left for the border that they closed the loophole a few months ago and everyone has to have a visa. This was the sole reason for leaving Nepal to the East, and since it cost a ton and we were in a car crash, we sure weren’t leaving without giving it a shot.
We went for the main border gate early in the morning and suffered our first rebuff. The stone-hearted border guards just wouldn’t budge without us having a visa. “We’ve travelled a 1000km just to visit your beautiful country for the day.” Nothing.
The impenetrable Bhutanese border gate.
So we went for the back door border post and met the same response, although delivered with a smile this time. We visited a travel agent and found out that since it was the off season, a visa could be obtained in only 4 days and for “only $175”. A bargain! Not wanting to spend that kind of money or time for a day trip, we headed back to the main gate and tested another guard shift. No dice. This called for drastic measures.
The actual border with Bhutan runs along the road away from the back border gate and markers indicated that one side of the street was India and the other Bhutan. However, a huge wall on the Bhutan side of the street meant all you could see was 10 feet of Bhutanese concrete topped by barbed wire.
We really did get to step into Bhutan – if only a few meters.
There was, however, a stream running out of Bhutan into India with an easily bypassed gate. The local Indians cross into the Bhutan side to do their laundry and we could see a path up to a Bhutanese road. With no officials in sight, we went for it.
The stream water was fresher on the Bhutanese side of the gate. Note the huge gap under that gate just begging you to sneak in.
We got past the gate, up the river, and started up the river bank to the road when we saw a Bhutanese official waiting for us at the top. Despite Marcus’ pleas, he waved us back to India without so much as a “Welcome, now get out.” At least he didn’t arrest us. So we snapped a quick photo and got out before he changed his mind.
Illegal aliens 200m into Bhutan.
While technically we did enter Bhutan, we’ll have to come back and do it better. No souvenir shops near the border, but we got some cool Bhutanese currency to remind us of our “visit”. Back at our hotel, we blindly ordered a Bhutanese dish called “ema datsi” which turned out to be melted white cheese filled with chili and onions. Tasted a lot like nachos when eaten with flatbread.
With extra time on our hands, we went to the Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary in Madarihat that was “booked solid for two months” according to the Siliguri tourist office. Fortunately for us, there was nobody there and we were able to take a jeep safari to look for the endangered one-horned rhino. We spotted two of these surly, armor-plated cows. But it wouldn’t have been too difficult if we just turned off the engine and listened for the loud munching of pampas grass.
Did some serious “fooding” at the Hotel Relax in Madarihat.
A young one-horned rhino is still intimidating even without a horn yet.
Siliguri – a transit hub – didn’t have much to offer the tourist, but we did find this ad for “Happy Hours” school funny.
After the challenge of buying train tickets to Delhi, the 25 hour train ride was remarkably pleasant. Great food included, no smoking, no beggars, and people were actually quiet during the night. Luxury! Rested and relaxed, we were ready for the chaos that is Delhi.
Tags: Bhutan, India
Kelly & Marcus
January 6th, 2006 at 5:40 am
Excellent form on the pinkie.
Just watch out of those King Corbras in the tea fields. Saw it on National Geographic this past weekend.
January 6th, 2006 at 6:13 am
I CONCUR…
Excellent form on the pinkie!
January 6th, 2006 at 7:57 am
Bhutan must have something really interesting to hide … Glad you managed to stay out of jail – don’t think they appreciate American wit!
I’d forgotten about the cobras in the tea fields – scary thought! Where’d you leave that big dragon stick Marc?
Hugs xoxox
January 6th, 2006 at 9:54 am
Nicely done in Bhutan. Glad you did try to bribe those guys…I was having flashbacks of Midnight Express.
Mom, I don’t think it’s appropriate to ask Marcus about his “big dragon stick”…this isn’t that kind of blog.
JR
January 6th, 2006 at 10:14 pm
I practiced for hours in front of the mirror to get the pinkie form just right. And I never go anywhere without the big dragon stick.
January 9th, 2006 at 3:12 pm
Glad to hear that you only spent 10 to 20 “minutes” in Bhutan,instead of 10 to 20 years.
Was your Happy New Year any different there than here? How, did the locals spend it?
Praying for you,
– Bob –
January 10th, 2006 at 5:13 am
Bob – we had it on good authority the Bhutanese security folks didn’t do anything but kick you out (no arrests, fines, or jail time). But yeah, it would have been a bit hard to explain to the Moms.
The locals made tons of noise for New Years, but then again, they do that every night.