Days 212-222: China, part 1
Yangshou, Beijing, Pingyao
We left the chaos of Vietnam for the relative tranquility of China. This is ironic because there about 1.3 billion (yes, with a ‘b’) people here, and that’s not even including the foreign tourists.
We headed for the pleasant, laid-back town of Yangshou nestled in a karst-studded landscape.
We went for a bike ride along the Dragon river to see the gorgeous scenery.
We also hiked up Moon Hill which has a huge natural archway bored through the karst. It seemed to be a popular spot for rock climbers, but we opted for the stairs.
One lazy morning in Yangshou we watched the Shenzhou 6 rocket take off with a pair of Chinese astronauts on board. We found it hilarious when they showed an animation of the rocket separation and one of the announcers asks in complete honesty: “How did we get this camera angle?” to which the other replied quietly “Um, it’s an animation.”
Yangshou had some terrific food, but we avoided the more exotic genitalia (eg. rooster testicle hot pot) on offer.
We took a 22 hour train ride to Beijing. We boarded this packed train with standing room “hard seat” tickets, and thankfully were able to upgrade to luxurious “soft sleeper” class. Here’s Kelly enjoying the rough life in our compartment, complete with Jackie Chan movies on TV (in Chinese, but his kung fu action needs no translation).
Beijing is a shockingly pleasant and orderly metropolis of 14 million people and we really enjoyed our time there. It seemed like most of the 14 million people were on the road at any given time, but that meant they weren’t on the sidewalks. The subway system can efficiently get you to almost anywhere. Things got a bit cozy during rush hour when the train cars near the ends get so packed that official “pushers” shove people into the cars so the doors can close.
Beijing is hosting the 2008 Olympics and is making a grand effort to upgrade and rennovate for the occassion.
Our first stop was Tienanmen Square and the Forbidden City. They were both completely packed with Chinese tourists with a sprinkling of foreigners. We’re convinced that a good fraction of China must visit these sites every year to explain the crowds. The Forbidden City was getting a thurough once over with paint to look good for the crowds in 2008.
Monk at the Gate of Heavenly Peace with Chairman Mao looking on.
We love these statues of lions made by people who had never actually laid eyes on one. There are always two lions: one with a ball under it’s foot and one with a domestic cat under it’s foot. Considering the pace that China is modernizing and taking over things, there must be a metaphor in here somewhere.
There is not much order to the crowds trying for a peak or picture into the buildings but Marcus had a height advantage.
Kelly on the other hand had a bit of trouble at the (ironically named) Supreme Harmony Hall.
The Forbidden City is a wonderful site, large (it certainly took us all day just to scatch the surface) and has lots of artifacts and neat buildings. It also has a Starbucks inside the Forbidden City. This is a sure sign of the victory of capitalism over communism.
Marcus sampling the forbidden fruit…
We’ve seen both KFC and this other chicken resturant chain (usually nearby), which we’ve taken to calling Chairman Sanders.
We spent another day at the Summer Palace (where the dynastic rulers would get away from the heat). Again, the preparations for sprucing up for the Olympics were clearly underway, but a few had already been completed.
Freshly painted gate at the Summer Palace.
The untouched glazed tile pagoda.
Of course, we couldn’t visit China without a trip to the Great Wall. We opted for a hike of 10km in a less touristed section. It was a good hike over parts – both restored and unrestored – with steep climbs and great views of the wall on a perfect weather day. We started the hike in slightly the wrong place and so we did a bit of running to make up for that.
Kelly on the run.
Marcus on one of the steep parts.
The Great Wall hugs the contours of the undulating landscape covered in autumnal foliage.
Quick – get ’em while they’re hot. Wart Coil on sale!
We took another night train to Pingyao, a small city by Chinese standards (40,000). We visited for it’s historical look and feel; more like the China you think of from years past. We were greated with overcast skies and a bit of rain, but it was a very pleasant city all said.
Morning sword practice in front of the Ming (or was it Qing?) dynasty city wall.
Shops opening in front of the bell tower down ‘main’ street.
Trinkets for sale. How much for that furry item?
Pingyao in the morning mist before the tour buses arrived.
Tags: China
Kelly & Marcus
October 23rd, 2005 at 6:18 am
Awesome! We begin China in late November in Ancient Civilizations – can’t wait for the kids to see these.
Love you!
October 23rd, 2005 at 6:59 am
Starbucks? Forbidden City?
In the same sentence?
Oh, my!
October 24th, 2005 at 6:49 am
I in AWE of both of you. You have seen and stood on the Great Wall of China. Thanks for the great pictures and commentary.
Praying for you
October 24th, 2005 at 7:43 am
Great pics guys, nice to hear from you. Two things:
1) Why are you traveling with a bag of fake breasts (over Kelly’s shoulder on the train pic)?
2) Marcus…after BUYING COFFEE at the Starbucks in the forbidden city you are hereby collaterally estopped from ever ranting about the effects of globilization or free trade again…WOW!
Jon
October 28th, 2005 at 3:21 am
You know what’s the worst thing about drinking the Starbucks? I loved it! China’s more of a tea place.
And who doesn’t travel with a bag of nice, plump pomelos?
November 5th, 2005 at 10:59 pm
Kelly, while it is apparently not a great idea to be in a commercia for harsh drinks, you can definitely sell what ever book you were reading in that picture! … wart coils… mmm…