Aitutaki
When we first decided to include the Cook Islands in our RTW itinerary, I did a little research and discovered that Rarotonga is only one of 15 islands that cover an area in the South Pacific the size of India. We couldn’t visit just one island! Aitutaki is one of the smaller southern islands and is famous for its huge sparkling lagoon that is a startling shade of blue. This tiny sleepy island is the perfect place to truly “get away from it all,” so we decided that a three-day side-trip to Aitutaki would be our first big splurge of the trip. So after ten days in Rarotonga, we caught a 5:30AM flight to Aitutaki and it was worth getting up at 4AM just to see the sunrise from the plane.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
The flight only took about 45 minutes and the view of the lagoon from the air was breathtaking. We had rented a little cottage at Popoara Ocean Breeze Villas for three nights and our host, Alan, was waiting at the airport to pick us up.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
We had a beautiful little cottage near the ocean with lovely gardens and lots of mosquitos.
After a quick nap to refresh ourselves, we headed to O’otu Beach which was only a short walk away. At first, all we could so was stand and stare at the water and Simon kept asking if this was where they got the water for swimming pools.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
Claude set right to work building one of his signature sand castles (only this time it was a tiny resort, complete with inground pool and thatched roof huts).
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
I went for a swim and discovered that about fifty feet from shore was a massive sandbar that stretched all the way along the beach and far out into the lagoon. You could walk in knee-deep water until you were almost halfway across to the other side. It was eerie to be so far from shore without a boat – kind of like walking on water. Schools of colourful tropical fish would swim practically around our ankles and, if startled, would leap out of the water in droves to get away. We had lunch at Samade On the Beach where you can almost reach out and dip your toe in the water from your table.
That afternoon, we jumped on our scooters and decided to go exploring. The island is so tiny that it only took us about an hour to do the entire circuit. At the far end of the island, the road gradually narrowed and became gravel and then mud ruts. We eventually had to turn around and go back because we hadn’t come prepared for motocross. Along the way we noticed large holes in the ground, some right in the middle of the road, and eventually noticed their enormous occupants scuttling across the road. These land crabs were so big and ugly that hitting one would probably have totaled our scooters. We looped back through some quaint little communities and admired the simple happy lives that the locals lead. Rarotonga seemed like a bustling metropolis compared to Aitutaki. You can drive right through the island’s only town, Arutanga, without even realizing it and we actually had to turn around because we’d missed the grocery store. I was also amazed at how few tourists there were and felt like we had the island to ourselves.
On day 2, we did the mandatory “Lagoon Cruise” which takes you on an all-day tour of the lagoon including a few of the many uninhabited motus (tiny islands).
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
In case you didn’t know, the current season of Survivor takes place in the Cook Islands and was actually filmed on Aitutaki. From June until September, they practically took over the tiny island and almost everyone on the island participated in some way, shape or form. Our boat captain was also employed by the show and was able to share a few insider tidbits with us. Due to a $5 million confidentiality clause, he couldn’t give us any details about the actual show, but he did show us the motus where it was taped
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
and took us to the motu, Akaiami, where the voted-off survivors were taken until the show was over. After seeing the private villas they got to stay in, I didn’t feel so bad for them. Then it was time for some spectacular snorkeling in the lagoon and on to One Foot Island for a delicious lunch. From One Foot Island we were able to swim out to “Exile Island” (also of Survivor fame), which is really nothing more than a sandbar with some scrub on it.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
I couldn’t imagine having to actually spend the night there alone. Then we just relaxed on the beach and tried to absorb as much of this tiny bit of paradise as we could. It’s impossible to describe the beauty of the place and pictures just don’t seem to do it justice. The varied hues of blue are so vivid that it almost hurts your eyes. I hadn’t appreciated the sheer vastness of the lagoon (45km in circumference) until we saw it from the boat. Finally, it was time to get our passports stamped at the One Foot Island Post Office (just adjacent to the bar) and head back to the mainland.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
We were so exhausted that we were all in bed by 8PM that night.
On Day 3 we decided that it was time for some adventure on our own. We kayaked out to one of the uninhabited motus, named Ee, in the lagoon and spent the day on our own private island. We had a beautiful white sand beach all to ourselves and an island to explore.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
The kids immediately christened it “Bournival Island” and took off to play Survivor.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
As they paddled around in the kayaks, I took advantage of the solitude and tried to get rid some of some tan lines while Claude industriously opened coconuts. Unfortunately, I underestimated the effect of the South Pacific sun on my previously unexposed skin and couldn’t wear a bra for a week. Do you know how itchy sunburned skin gets and how hard it is to not scratch in public? Claude and the kids thought it was hilarious. At the end of the day, as we kayaked back, I marveled at the beauty and serenity of this place and how lucky we were to be there.
Just across a small channel at the end of O’otu Beach is a tiny island that is home to the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort, a five-star resort where rooms start at $450/night and the “over-water bungalows” run about $1100/night.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
The place is so exclusive that they removed the bridge to the island and installed a small ferry to transport guests back and forth. To even go to have a drink at their bar or a meal at their restaurant, you have to call on the courtesy phone to get permission before getting on the ferry. Of course, to cap off our magical day, we had to go watch the sunset from their lagoon bar and soak up the decadence for a little while.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
It’s OK, it was Happy Hour and the drinks were only $8 each. The bartender even made the kids milkshakes.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
What a place!
Our adventure in Aitutaki wasn’t over yet. For our last meal, we attended one of the island’s famous “Island Nights” at the Blue Nun. When we arrived, we discovered that it wasn’t much more than a warehouse on the wharf in Arutanga, but the local food was delicious and the dancing was very entertaining.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
The next morning, as we waited to board our plane, the heavens opened and the deluge began. It was raining so hard, we could hardly hear each other and could barely see the end of the runway. We thanked our lucky stars that we had had sunny weather for our visit, because Aitutaki can be very boring in the rain. About half of the passengers who got off the flight from Rarotonga were there for a day cruise and most of them turned right around and got back on the plane. One of the staff members tried to keep the passengers’ spirits up by grabbing a water cooler bottle and playing the conga with the airport’s ukulele player.
 |
| From Aitutaki (Coo… |
A perfect ending to a magical visit.
To see more of our Aitutaki photos, visit our web album.
Tags: Cook Islands, South Pacific, Travel
tambour
Looks like things are going very well. It’s minus 5 here, we have about 2 inches of snow and the Christmas rush has begun. Reading your blog certainly has increased my interest in doing something like this in the future. Right now, Emily is growing like a weed and is doing something new each day. Kristy has gone back to work full time, is working on her MBA part-time and is doing a wonderful job as Mom all at the same time. We are looking forward to Christmas and our winter vacation (seems sort of insignficant compared to what you’re doing) in Feb. Take care.