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Adventures at the Indian Embassy

Friday, July 27th, 2007

Why, you might ask, would I devote an entire blog entry to the Indian Embassy? Well, considering the amount of time, energy and patience I expended there, it deserves an entire chapter. Let this be a lesson to those of you who wish to obtain an Indian visa at the embassy in Katmandu (or, I have a sneaking suspicion, any Indian embassy) – do not underestimate the power of mindless bureaucracy to reduce even the most even-tempered individuals to raging lunatics. After our experience at the embassy in Katmandu, I’m starting to believe that the Indian government has a secret conspiracy to keep tourists out of their country by making it next to impossible and utterly distasteful to get a visa. A few words of advice:

1. Before attempting to obtain your Indian visa, take a large dose of Prozac for at least two weeks (it’s widely available over-the-counter at most pharmacies in Nepal);
2. Plan to do nothing else for at least two of the next three days;
3. Paste a bland smile on your face and resolve to keep it there no matter what;
4. Bring along a good book (preferably a joke book);
5. Set your expectations low so you won’t be disappointed – plan for anything and everything to go wrong;
6. Set aside any preconceived notions you may have about customer service and remember that these are government officials you are dealing with – it’s not their job to serve you; they are there to confuse, frustrate and exasperate you while acting as if they are doing you a favour. [read on]

Reflections on Nepal

Friday, July 27th, 2007

Reflections on Nepal
April 7-10, 2007

Before going back to our hotel in Katmandu, we had two more places to visit. First, our driver took us to Nagarkot, a little town perched on a small peak about half an hour from Katmandu that is famous for its panoramic views of the Himalayas. Bishnu told us that on a clear day, you can see Everest. Unfortunately for us, the smog in the Katmandu Valley is so heavy in April that we could barely see to the bottom of the hill, let alone any distant peaks. When we arrived at our hotel, the Country Villa, I took a picture of our splendid “view.”

Shortly after we arrived, it started raining and soon it was a full-blown thunder and lightening storm. When we discovered how expensive the restaurant was in our hotel, we decided to brave the elements and walk down the hill into the town to find cheaper food. As we stumbled along in the dark, getting drenched and cringing when the lightening struck, I wondered aloud if it was worth it to save a few dollars. Then Claude reminded me that one of the purposes of this trip was to challenge ourselves to learn to live on a budget and do with less – the harder we worked for our meals, the better they would taste. In the end, we found a nice little place where we enjoyed great food for half what it would have cost us to eat at the hotel. We even got to eat by candlelight when the power went out halfway through the meal. [read on]

Elephants Rock!

Friday, July 27th, 2007
Chitwan National Park April 5-7, 2007 I thought it would be difficult to top our jungle walk, but Gupal still had more surprises in store for us. That afternoon, he took us to the Baghmara Bufferzone on the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Walk softly and carry a big stick!

Friday, July 27th, 2007
Chitwan National Park April 4-5, 2007 When we returned to Katmandu, we discovered that the temperature had risen over 10 degrees since we left and was now hovering in the low thirties. This had created an inversion effect ... [Continue reading this entry]

Back to Katmandu

Tuesday, July 10th, 2007
The long downhill trek back to Jomsom wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be. I wore two thick pairs of socks to protect my ankles and didn’t suffer too much. The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Muktinath

Tuesday, July 10th, 2007
Annapurna Circuit V Muktinath When we arrived in Jomsom, Claude told me that he was enjoying trekking so much that he was considering completing the entire Annapurna Circuit. This meant continuing on from Muktinath over the Thorung La Pass (5600m/18,500ft) and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Annapurna IV

Tuesday, June 12th, 2007
Ghasa to Muktinath After saying goodbye to our new friends, we continued up the valley toward Jomsom and Muktinath. By now, we had all the kinks worked out and felt like seasoned trekkers. Along the way we met some ... [Continue reading this entry]

Annapurna III

Saturday, June 9th, 2007
Tatopani to Ghasa The morning after our marathon trek to Tatopani, Alexa dramatically declared that she needed a wheelchair to go down to breakfast and that she wasn’t walking anywhere that day. We had been considering taking ... [Continue reading this entry]

Annapurna Circuit II

Saturday, June 9th, 2007
Poon Hill to Tatopani We had planned to take a rest day in Ghorepani before the 7 hour trek to Tatopani because we wanted to climb to the top of Poon Hill for sunrise. Because we had to leave before ... [Continue reading this entry]

Annapurna Circuit I

Saturday, June 9th, 2007
Pokhara to Ghorepani Mar 16-18 The morning we were to fly to Pokhara to begin our Annapurna Circuit trek, I awoke at 4:30AM with a familiar cramping in my guts and had to make a run for the bathroom. This couldn’t ... [Continue reading this entry]