A Malaysian mystery - No Place As Home

August 22, 2004

A Malaysian mystery

Hi everyone, here is the article which chronologically fits behind "In the shaman's view". The first part of this piece talks about in part the political situation in Malaysia, and as such is deeply under researched. I hope Malaysian readers will take these possibly ill advised comments as the concern of a visiting friend, rather than the superior lecturing of a tourist.

To say goodbye to Malaysia, after more than two months exploring the country. Malaysia was in many ways the most familiar Asian country I've been to: the high level of English, and also because Islamic, Indian and Chinese cultures are ones that I've seen a lot of at home. Sometimes this sense of familiarity reached absurd proportions, such with the Cameron Highlands' replica ye olde pubs, built fifty years ago for homesick British officials - Surrey on the equator.
I've found being in Malaysia most rewarding when I dug a bit below the surface and got talking to people - it's not a country like Thailand where 1001 attractions have been laid on for you, and all you need to do is choose. The different races in Malaysia make it very interesting, and I think make it more cosompolitan feeling than elsewhere in SE Asia - one is very aware of the outside world here.

But I left Malaysia with many worries about the country. Not economic ones - I'm sure the country will continue to grow and become more prosperous. But socially and politically, I left with a deeply negative impression.

There seems an immense gulf between the different races in Malaysia - in particular between the Malay majority and everyone else. The Malays are on average economically poorer than the Chinese and Indians; the government's policy is to redistribute wealth to make this more balanced. Put like that, it sounds like the positive discrimination or affirmative action that many Western countries have. It also is hard to reconcile the above description with the incredible resentment many of the non Malay Malaysians feel towards these pro Malay laws. I don't want to get into a discussion about the economic issues of these laws - mainly because I don't know nearly enough about them. But what I think disturbed me about the racial and religious positive discrimination in Malaysia was how it goes far beyond economic redistribution.

In Malaysia, if you want to marry a Malay, you must convert to Islam, and your children must be raised as Muslims. Non Muslims applying for University scholarships are encouraged to convert - the same goes for non Muslims wanting to hold elected offices. I've heard stories of trials for state junior football teams, and the non Malays kids are told they won't be picked unless there is still a gap once all the Malay hopefuls have been considered.
The sad thing is that while Malaysia's government gives the Malays these several advantages (such as areas where only they can live, scholarships, loans for businesses), it doesn't allow them the things that I think really enable a people to develop: free speech, a free press, or an open dialogue with the different groups of Malaysia about what "Malaysian-ness" is. In fact discussing these racial issues is illegal.
Reading Malaysian political news often feels like reading government press releases, in places probably copied out word for word. It would nice to believe that the government acts wisely in its decisions to withhold various bits of information from its people - the large number of anecodotes I've heard about corruption, self enrichment, such as through links with logging special interests, suggest this would be too generous.

The problem I have when considering these topics is that my sources have been very one sided. Every Malaysian who has been willing to discuss politics with me has been a non Malay, a non Muslim. Part of this is that most of the conversations I've had have been with non Malays - aside from that holiday group back on Cecil Island, I had a brief chat with a KLer my friend Gari met in over the internet, and had various very limited conversations with Malays in Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu. English ability was sometimes the source of lack of dialogue, but equally, these political / racial issues seem not ones Malays are generally happy talking about. In contrast, it is often the first thing non Malays have wanted to talk to me about.
So there is my Malaysian mystery. I haven't really spent time with or got to know the majority population of the country, haven't really heard the other side of the arguement (and I'm sure there is one), have spent two and a half months in Malaysia - but can't tell you much about the Malays.

Au revoir, Malaysia

Back in Bangkok - balmy hot interrupted by screaming torrential rain. I went back to the cake shop where I had made lots of friends a few months previous; Jom had got a new hair style and the girl doing the Law and Women's Studies masters degree had split up with her luke warm German boyfriend. "Probably for the best", I told her. She seemed much happier, and grinned, "Yes, now, just looking for the next one"!

I met up with Richard and Tuely, who were beginning their six month trip from Thailand to Cuba. We had two very fun nights together - both were very nice people. Richard has this endearing tendency to slip into rather geeky thought exercises: "I thought to myself the other day, if Chiang Mai has a twentieth of the population of Bangkok, but say fifty percent of the tourists, then the impact of tourism...". Tuely has a lovely dry sense of humour that's obvious in her eyes. While the three of us were watching thai boxing in the Lumpini stadium, Richard remarked about the current lacklustre pair in the ring: "This bout is terrible; me and Tuely could probably put up more of a scrap than those two" - Tuely observed, "And have, on a few occasions".
Richard pointed out some of my hypocrasies and inaccuracies: I am forced to admit, for example, that I have gone back into Khao San road a few times, despite my vow not to (there's a great Boots halfway down, the same products as in the UK but much cheaper).

The rest of my time in Bangkok, I was busy getting a visa and plane ticket to India (curiously, you have to enter on the visa application form either your father or husband's name), a medical examination as required for my Australian working visa, and a long overdue trip to the dentist. Apparently my teeth, chest, blood pressure and urine are all normal.

Scenes from Bangkok:

The only decision was what to do in the days leading up to my flight to India on the 4th of September. I settled on two weeks yoga - and the only course not requiring a beginners' class at a too late date was this one: www.hathayogachiangmai.com
I was a little concerned at the amount of mysticism displayed on the website: "Turn fear into love" etc, but figured it would be fine whatever and booked myself into the next VIP overnight tourist bus heading northwards.

Daniel, 20 August, Chiang Mai

Posted by Daniel on August 22, 2004 10:55 PM
Category: Thailand

Comments

Malaysian will be sad to see you go though. And take it easy on the Aussies.

Posted by: 'The Dee' on August 25, 2004 11:08 PM

That's an interesting observation there about Malaysia - I, for one, would also love to hear the other side of the argument.

As for political news reading like press releases? They are press releases. I was 'lucky' enough to attend a political press conference once shortly after I graduated - being there was supposed to help me decide if I want to work for a radio station or be a journalist like I originally wanted. I applied to do a postgraduate degree in the UK in the end.

And I think I won't get shot for this comment.....

Posted by: Bertha on August 26, 2004 05:39 AM

Sad....you've been illadvise. Cannot help myself, knowing that this is not the appropriate forum.
Don't mixup race and religion.
I'm Malay and Muslim. My best friend in local uni, scholarship holder, Micheal, till todate, 15 years later, yet to be converted. Should pass this mail to him, now he will have the reason to marry 4.
We've famous ministers, Chinese and Indian, yet not converted. So is M'sian favourite gookeeper, the late Arumugam and taukeh, Soh Chin Ann.
Anyway M'sia will be celebrating our 47th independent day on 31 Aug. We're young, lots to do and learn.

Posted by: riana on August 26, 2004 09:36 AM

sadly, riana - daniel hasn't been ill-advised. he was told true stories by actual malaysians who were told to convert by the government if they wanted a scholarship or a government post. just because it may be hard for you to imagine, doesn't mean that it's not true.

Posted by: Cayce on August 26, 2004 10:01 AM

I am in Malaysia now and am noticing the things you have mentioned here. However, the Malaysians seem very nationalistic (at least in the incredible number of flags everywhere).
Thanks for the positive write-up on me and Tuely!

Posted by: Richard on August 26, 2004 08:49 PM

There are definitely unfair affirmative action type policies in effect here (just like many other countries including the US) but I think it's on the mend, albeit slowly. I love all the culture that's here, the openness - I think we are also a lot more tolerant than many places I've been that are multi-cultural. Give us a few more years (ok, maybe we need more than a few) but I think the gap between the races will eventually be closed.

Richard - it's our national day soon, that's why the flags are everywhere.

Posted by: char on August 26, 2004 11:00 PM

Yes I read the newspaper today and there was quite a lot in there about forthcoming independence day so I only just understood the flags thing.
I also read the about the Prime Minister criticising the Malaysian athletes for not trying hard enough - that seems quite a cultural thing.

Posted by: Richard on August 27, 2004 01:14 PM

Well said, Daniel. Well said. Malaysia hates confrontation. Thus it forbids its citizens to ruffle feathers. So what you get is a large proportion who feel frustrated without an outlet.

And on that note, I shall shut up.

Posted by: Marita Paige on August 27, 2004 03:50 PM

Welcome to the absurdity that is Malaysian politics.

There are some really messed up people in the government.

Having said that there are those in high enough places who try to open up our normally conservative society, despite the fact that doing so will put their careers at risk.

Don't worry about us though. We'll be fine.

As for that religious conversion thing, yes in fact in college some attempts have been made to convert non-muslims, esp. us East Malaysians.

I said no thanks.

The only thing I can say about this is that, yes it happens but it's not official policy. It's just some people really have no respect whatsoever for others of different religious faith.

See you soon mate. Have a nice journey.

Posted by: mac on August 28, 2004 05:11 AM

Yes, there is discrimination, however that is an active industry in many parts of the World.

You are from London, Daniel. If I am not mistaken, there is an issue about systematic and indeed, institutionalised discrimination in the Metropolitan Police Constabulary. Is this isolated ? or is it widely more prevalent in other institutions ?

I am afraid that when rascism rears it's ugly head, a lot of people can rightfully feel victimised, and that is why, rather belatedly, efforts are in place to counter this in Malaysia. However, it's only right to add that this would take work and courage to implement, and that requires a willingness of all parties to be involved in this process. After all, like it or not, we are all Malaysians, and we have to stick together.

In the Cabinet, we have had Chinese, Indian, Melanaus, Kadazans and indeed, up until the recent past a prominent Iban, who are members of their respective minorities in Malaysia.

In Britain you have a Junior Minister in the Treasury and his name is Paul Boateng. Currently, He is the only highest ranked ethnic minority in your government.

There you have it, a sneak preview of the "other side" of the coin. Not nice, but at times a bitter pill to swallow.

I apologise if I have been disrespectful.

Yours in blogdom,

Posted by: SP on August 28, 2004 06:13 AM

Hi everyone, very pleased there are lots of views being put forward. Don't worry at all about saying what's on your mind - the only comments that I don't like are those cryptic one or two worders that don't make any sense.

These aren't easy topics - well demonstrated by the differing views of the above comments.

The comment that I feel I need to respond to is SP's. I really hope the article doesn't come across as the writings someone who believes their own country is flawless. If you've read my pieces on living in London and on "Englishness", I make a lot of criticisms of England / the UK. In fact I've received various emails from English readers complaining that I am too harsh, that the real problem is that English people complain too much about things that aren't serious. I think the problems are serious, and I agree completely with the issues of British racial discrimination that you mention.

My outlook for this internet diary is that I will say what is good and bad, as I see it, in each country I visit, including the one I come from.

Many of the issues being discussed here could indeed be applied to any country in the world. I do think we all need to encourage and critise each other, to help us all move forward. We are all, to use a worn cliche, one human race, living (somewhat precariously at present) on one planet.

That's all I wanted to say, everyone please feel free to leave more comments, respond to this comment, or if you'd prefer, email me.

Daniel - I finished my yoga course today!! Horay!!

Posted by: Daniel on August 28, 2004 02:59 PM

Yay for finishing yoga course! Congratulations! :)

For what it's worth, Daniel, I don't think you were being biased in your views at all. It's utter defensiveness (your country is no better than mine so what gives you the right to criticise mine and other like comments) that doesn't get us anywhere because it stops all avenues of dialogue and discussions. No country or government institution is perfect. Ignoring the obvious isn't going to make things go away magically - the problems will still be there.

And yes, shutting up now.

Posted by: Bertha on August 28, 2004 08:13 PM

Daniel,
I have just found your very interesting blog while researching for our first trip to S E Asia. (Going in October for six weeks). Have not had time to read them all. So I ask a favour. Before you leave for India, I am writing quickly to ask if you could tell me which of your blogs deal with Malaysia,Bangkok and South Thailand, or Vietnam if you went there, which older people would appreciate in particular. Certainly we are not backpackers, but very interested in getting to know people, visiting the old and new parts of towns but avoiding the areas where there are none but tourists. I read the piece you wrote about your parents' visit, when they stayed at the blue house. This sounds just like what we would like. I lived in Sri Lanka when I was a child, for about 18 months, back in 1948, and have a lovely memory of the old fort and old Dutch and Portugese buildings in Galle, which I was able to visit - they were owned by families then, not converted into hotels or resorts. So I have a romantic nostalgic dream of returning, but realize those days have gone for ever. Nevertheless staying in an old 'colonial' style house for a few days would be fantastic. Incidentally I live in the UK and today look out of the window on an idylic early-autumn view, hazy sun, trees just on the turn, gardens full of sedums, fuschias and japanese anemonies, bees and butterflys, and dozy wasps. Its not all bad here, on days like these.
pauli

Posted by: pauli on September 3, 2004 08:15 PM

Hi Pauli, well, for Bangkok I'd recommend "Time runs faster here"; for Malaysia, "One hundred lashes in toy town", "Travelling on a wooden bench", "You don't need beer to have fun" and "From the wiggle of a bum". I haven't been to Vietnam.

If you are going to Singapore and want to see an colonial era building, visit the Mitre Hotel, assuming it hasn't fallen down by the time you arrive!

Chiang Mai is a good place to visit, several older beautiful buildings, if you have time for a trip there.

Daniel - it does sound a lovely view...

Posted by: Daniel on September 4, 2004 01:51 AM

Wang Suan Phakkat, which means the Lettuce Farm Palace. Hi Daniel. Thanks very much for the reply, I have already started reading the blogs you mentioned. Especially interesting about Bangkok because I have no idea what to expect. Seems like everybody and his wife has been to Bangkok but nobody stays very long, yet there must be fascinating places to see. I read about the private Bangkok garden called The Lettuce Farm Palace, made by the late Princess Chumbhot. It is open daily from 9 to 4. I also found a good web site called www.smartTravelAsia.com, it has info about India etc. but perhaps you already know about this. Hope your next trip is good. Look forward to reading about it. Cheers, Pauli

Posted by: pauli on September 5, 2004 09:05 PM

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