Lago Atitlan is one of Guatemala´s "must sees", a gorgeous high-altitude lake surrounded by mountains and volcanic peaks. Hoardes of gringoes come to the area to learn Spanish, and "alternative lifestyle folks" come to feel the energy, man of this supposed vortex (others include Machu Picchu and some pyramids in Egypt).

According to a lot of travelers, the Iguana Perdida Hostel in the lakeside village of Santa Cruz La Laguna is the place to be. Great, we had our next destination.

The Iguana is situated near the lakeshore, with the village of Santa Cruz a 20 minute climb away, up a steep hill. It is one of those places that, just by being there, make a destination. It is also one of those places where you come for a day and stay for way too long, doing nothing much except lay in a hammock and read... It sucks you in, but in a good way.

The Iguana has nothing at all to do with the real Guatemala, and everything to do with "Backpackerland". Don´t expect to practise your Spanish ;-) It is an oasis of "backpacker comfort" (without electricity, that is) with its thatched rustic huts, homemade wooden furniture, hammocks and western food. The kitchen is open most of the day, and the evening meal is a communal, vegetarian affair. There aren´t really many other food options around, so you can´t help but meet a bunch of new friends over every meal.

Every new arrival is treated and trusted like an old friend. Want a beer? Just take one from the fridge and write your name on the bar list. Want a piece of cheesecake? Tea? A mixed drink? Just remember to write it down - it´s all good. The only things they didn´t trust us with were chocolate and cigarettes, probably for a good reason...

We spent, I believe, four days at the Iguana, doing very little indeed. All plans to do day hikes were promptly skipped as we discovered the pleasures of laying in the hammock with a beer and a book. We visited the village and managed an hour´s kayak trip on the lake, which we thought was quite a feat... We also went for a day trip to the town of San Pedro*, but only because the Iguana staff had hired a boat to take us there and back... One of the days we had as our only goal to try a piece of the Iguana´s cheesecake. We accomplished it and were quite happy with our determination and dedication... For those of you who know me as Kath the workaholic, this must sound ridiculous, but I seem to be a natural :-)

We had a relaxing few days at the lake, and the scenery is indeed among the best I´ve ever seen. However, I failed to feel its "magic". I have a suspicion that the magic got a little lost when several hundred hippies descended upon the area, opening up international restaurants, hostels and souvenir shops, and peddling their drugs to thousands of eager tourists.

*San Pedro is the place to study Spanish, but I can hardly imagine a worse place to spend extended time. It is probably the most horrible town I´ve ever visited, with an extremely bad "vibe", overrun with dreadlocked young gringoes selling home made jewellery and dreadlocked old gringoes selling drugs. Please!