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January 24, 2005

Of floating gardens and witches

Our second day in Mexico City, Silje and I took the efficient Metro south of the city to visit the floating gardens of Xochimilco. Ever since the Aztecs ruled the area, then called Tenochtitlan, Xochimilco has been Mexico City´s main agricultural supplier. Apparently consisting of over 120km of canals and holding over 5000 residents on floating islands, Xochimilco is quite a sight.

No doubt big business during the tourist season, the canals were quiet today, with hundreds of gondola-like flat bottomed boats clogging up the "harbor" instead of the canals themselves. Our "driver" expertly pushed us along narrow canals, past run down shacks and gorgeous mansions, and out into the main agricultural area where we passed dozens of garden islands growing everything from carnivorous plants to fruits and vegetables. We could even stop and have a snack at one of many restaurants, obviously set up to cash in on the tourist flow. The tour was over way to soon, and we had to return to the mainland.

After lunch we made our way to the Merced Market, better known as the site of Mexico City´s main witchcraft / voodoo market. In the narrow, incense-filled lanes you can find cures for heartache and diabetes, candles to attract new lovers, voodoo dolls to inflict pain on the one who broke your heart, and teas and herbs for every other occasion in your life. We went around asking for something for travel sickness, and were prescribed everything from a tea (that Silje bought but has yet to try), to holy water and other dodgy tonics. Some vendors offered scary stuff such as dried bats (?), skinned and dried fury tailed creatures (cats??) and something resembling dried baby´s heads. I didn´t dare ask them for help...

As I was relaxing in the hostel´s hammock that evening, watching the lizards catch their bug dinner, I was wondering if I should try to make a living at the witches market selling dried lizards - there´s one for every occasion!

Posted by kvabo on January 24, 2005 07:52 PM
Category: Viva Mexico!
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