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December 31, 2005

The Great Indonesian Flu

Yahoo is notoriously difficult to get into, I may change my account to Gmail. I don't know what their excuse is for running such slow servers. So I tried the old 'mailto' protocol instead, but got Outlook Express, from which...

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Posted by Denni on December 31, 2005 08:09 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 30, 2005

The Trouble with Travelblogging...

...is that travel often leads to where there is no internet, or electricity for that matter. This is why I have not been in touch for a while. I'm very sorry, John—I back-stepped on my original plan to go to...

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Posted by Denni on December 30, 2005 11:06 AM
Category: SE Asia

Is it a bird? Is it a bat...

...No—it was a bug! A beetle, to be precise, the size of my hand, which whizzed above our heads with an awesome buzz before colliding audibly with one of the roof beams at Black Marlin Divers on Kadidiri, Togean Islands....

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Posted by Denni on December 30, 2005 05:21 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 28, 2005

Snorkelling in the Togeans

Memories of happier times... I've managed to shrink a few pictures down to manageable size, for blogging purposes only. They are a little grainy, but clear enough. They were taken just after Christmas in the Togean islands—as close to Paradise...

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Posted by Denni on December 28, 2005 05:01 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 27, 2005

Togean Temptations

And here is one of the highs: Imagine a land where it is always summer. Where green islands are dotted in turquoise waters, surrounded by coral gardens. Where dolphins weave through the silvery tapestry of the sea in shouting distance...

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Posted by Denni on December 27, 2005 12:36 PM
Category: SE Asia

December 26, 2005

Christmas Day in Ampana

At 5:30 in the morning, the sun painted the sky pastel pink. It looked to be a wonderful day with a mirror calm sea and clear sky. I mimed throwing a stone at the dog whose howling had woken...

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Posted by Denni on December 26, 2005 04:52 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 24, 2005

Palu to Poso

Rant warning; the following (backdated) entries up to January 20th are a largely uncensored account of my experiences in Indonesia. Solo travel in Sulawesi drove me to the verge of a nervous breakdown (yes, really) and isn't recommended for...

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Posted by Denni on December 24, 2005 11:42 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 23, 2005

The Pelni Experience (1)

(ca. 1500 words) I had my adventure back. The smell of fried plantain mingled wit diesel fumes as I pushed my way through the throng of taxi-touts. There were buses going to Manado, but I had decided to base myself...

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Posted by Denni on December 23, 2005 06:13 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 22, 2005

The Pelni Experience (2)

The guy at the information counter, when it finally opened, confirmed that the ship was due to arrive in Pantoloan, a port 22km north of Palu which wasn't on my map, at 10 o'clock the following morning. I could not...

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Posted by Denni on December 22, 2005 09:24 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 21, 2005

The Night of the Southern Cross

I blinked at the unfamiliar constellations. It wasn't a full moon, yet the fans of the banana leaves and the feathery bushels of oil palms stood out as clearly as if they had been drawn in crayon....

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Posted by Denni on December 21, 2005 06:00 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 20, 2005

Kota Kinabalu

This may have turned into a bit of a city-trip, but when the cities are as nice as Kota Kinabalu—the state capital of Sabah—I don't mind. The lashing rains and grey skies have finally given way to sunshine, the better...

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Posted by Denni on December 20, 2005 09:47 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 19, 2005

Flying in Circles

Time for another rant. I'm beginning to think I'm not very good at this travelling lark. Despite the late night, I snapped awake 30 seconds before the Palm started bleeping. When I got out of the bathroom, the main lights...

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Posted by Denni on December 19, 2005 09:20 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 18, 2005

Surf ‘n’ Turf, Jungle Style

I don't dig the food here. The flavours are weak and poorly balanced. There is no heat, no tangyness and too much sweetness and I don't care to acquire the taste of the dried fish with wich nearly everything is...

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Posted by Denni on December 18, 2005 10:47 AM
Category: SE Asia

Jungle or Coral Islands?

At first Miri looked bad. Then it looked good, with the sun setting across the spit of sand which separates the 'Highlands' backpacker lodge from the beach. I thought I'd catch the sunset. I had just finished catching up with...

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Posted by Denni on December 18, 2005 08:10 AM
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December 17, 2005

Borneo Highway Express

(Cheers, 'Blablablabla' for this link to travels in Indonesia—forewarned is forearmed ;) ) The nightbus to Miri would not leave until nine—I don't know why I booked such a late departure, especially as the buses to the coach terminal only...

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Posted by Denni on December 17, 2005 12:11 PM
Category:

Magical Morning

On my last day in Kuching I managed to catch the 7:00 am bus to the Sarawak Forestry reserve at Semenggoh, home to the state's botanical collections and to an Orang Utan rehabilitation centre in a 630 ha rainforest reserve....

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Posted by Denni on December 17, 2005 10:16 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 16, 2005

Bubble Tea with Cayce

Seems that every day at five, without fail, the internet goes down. This is also the last time that I'm blogging from that horrible basement internet café, so I'll keep this brief. Better updates hopefully tomorrow from Miri. It was...

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Posted by Denni on December 16, 2005 09:32 AM
Category:

December 14, 2005

Interlude

If this entry is written badly, blame the internet café downstairs in this shopping mall. The woman running it listens to badly recorded Malaysian pop at full volume on the computer opposite. The Borneo B&B will have internet access from...

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Posted by Denni on December 14, 2005 11:43 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 12, 2005

U-Turn

If Taman Negara is the green heart of Malaysia and Kuala Lumpur the commercial head, so—some say—Melaka is its soul. Steeped in history from centuries as a trading port, under successive occupation by the Dutch, Portuguese and British, home to...

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Posted by Denni on December 12, 2005 12:51 PM
Category: SE Asia

December 11, 2005

River of Treacle

Kuala Lumpur is a strange town. It has no day or night, only periods of light and dark. When I woke up in my window-less cubicle for the third time, I finally turned on the light. It was just before...

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Posted by Denni on December 11, 2005 08:59 AM
Category: SE Asia

Rainforest for Beginners

(long entry warning) When I woke up this morning, I got a surprise. Not that this is unusual when travelling—in fact it had happened to me most mornings on this trip—but this was not just the familiar 'where am I'-feeling....

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Posted by Denni on December 11, 2005 03:39 AM
Category: SE Asia

Bug Safari

The river bus had delivered us to Kuala Tahan a few hours before dark, so I booked a place on the night walk, or rather the Bug Safari. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em! We set off by boat...

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Posted by Denni on December 11, 2005 02:36 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 09, 2005

Into the Jungle

Having no alarm clock and being such a chronophobe, I woke up about every ½h, finally getting out of bed at a quarter to six—just before really drifting off to sleep. Why does daylight have such a soporific effect...

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Posted by Denni on December 9, 2005 01:58 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 06, 2005

Up yours!

The weather was OK this afternoon, so I set off across town to the Petronas Twin Towers—the tallest buildings in the world. From the sky bridge, on the 41st floor, Kuala Lumpur could really be appreciated. The towers are at...

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Posted by Denni on December 6, 2005 09:58 AM
Category: SE Asia

Chinatown

So, the neighbourhood is a little dodgy, but it has its compensations. Lots of backpacker hostels, for one; the proximity of the bus station for another. I won't have to go far to make my enquiries about Taman Negara; although...

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Posted by Denni on December 6, 2005 05:23 AM
Category: SE Asia

Nice 'Hood!

Chinatown, around the corner from Puduraya Bus Station This street is blissfully quiet at night. I discovered this place by following LP directions across the road from Puduraya Bus Station and then walking up a set of stairs to...

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Posted by Denni on December 6, 2005 05:08 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 05, 2005

Fools will travel...

(...or why I am not a Lonely Planet Writer) The ferry was late, and it was packed. That should have told me something. According to LP and to local lore, buses leave directly from the tiny town of Kuala Perlis...

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Posted by Denni on December 5, 2005 02:39 PM
Category: SE Asia

December 03, 2005

Unlucky 3rd

I had a beastly few days, but it's therapeutic to write about it ;) Plenty of good times ahead! That evening at the bar, we had a discussion about auspicious and unlucky numbers. "The Chinese believe eight is a bad...

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Posted by Denni on December 3, 2005 02:35 PM
Category: SE Asia

Bug-attack!

In the tropics, there'll be bugs. Im afraid of bugs above a certain size—very afraid—but not so much that it will keep me from travelling. Here I am surrounded by people who know no fear, including the backpackers in my...

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Posted by Denni on December 3, 2005 11:44 AM
Category: SE Asia

Island-hopping



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Posted by Denni on December 3, 2005 11:41 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 02, 2005

Malaysia Morning

My first really amazing morning of the trip, here on Pulau Lakawi in Malaysia. The sun is out, but it did not get oppressively hot until noon. I spent the time watching the antiques of the 'Gecko' guesthouse's tame...

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Posted by Denni on December 2, 2005 06:18 AM
Category: SE Asia

December 01, 2005

Troubles with Thai (language)

One thing I do not like about Thailand is the weather. It was raining in Satun—if not as hard as in Songkhla—and the sky was covered in uniform grey clouds. The weather in Thailand is like London, only stickier....

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Posted by Denni on December 1, 2005 04:22 PM
Category: SE Asia

Land of Clean

When picking up my breakfast snack in one of the ubiquitous 7-11 stores this morning, I briefly felt my sense of reality shift—the 'dim sum' in the little oven were the same as in Taiwan. And also as in Taiwan,...

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Posted by Denni on December 1, 2005 03:32 PM
Category: SE Asia
Latest Comments
Fritzi: Gut wieder von Dir zu "hoeren". Du hast sicherlich... [read]

sebastian: http://sebastian.doc.gold.ac.uk/christmas2005/imag... [read]

John: Diving is relaxing! I'll bring the kit. Happy Ne... [read]

Blablablabla: denni if you wish to travel to Indonesia via Tawa... [read]

cayce: Hi Denni, Fellow bootsnaller from Kuching here. ... [read]

Denni: Thanks Lisa, good to know I'm not alone. Dispute f... [read]

Lisa: Sounds exactly like what happened to me! File a di... [read]

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Toby O'Neil: You're braver than I am --- my few attempts at wri... [read]



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