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October 31, 2004

Freaking on the road

I was woken by a commotion outside. The road through Ulla is never completely quiet. Irrespective of how few vehicles there are in the area, the odd tuk-tuk, bike and even bus might roar up or down at any hour...

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Posted by Denni on October 31, 2004 05:15 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Losing the plot

I woke up in the doorstep of a room. Not mine, there was no sign of the rucksack, but my bag was next to me. It was dark and quiet. Cursing my stupidity, I crawled under the mosquito net and...

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Posted by Denni on October 31, 2004 02:05 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 30, 2004

Arugam Bay

In Pottuvil, just across from Arugam Bay, it was clear that I had arrived in backpacker country....

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Posted by Denni on October 30, 2004 03:59 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 29, 2004

Batticaloa to Arugam Bay

Batticaloa is a laid-back town on Sri Lanka's largest lagoon, made famous by its 'singing fish': in the time around the full moon between April and October, the water in the lagoon reverebates with a sound which one traveler described...

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Posted by Denni on October 29, 2004 03:08 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 28, 2004

Running away

S and A were due to fly home in two days' time, so Rob had invited John and me to spend our last ten days at his place. He was keen to pick John's brains about the mathematical modeling required...

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Posted by Denni on October 28, 2004 08:30 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 27, 2004

A wild goose chase (2)

The lecture was scheduled for six pm, more than five hours away. Enough time for me to get home and change. I was smelly and dusty from rushing across the city. Needless to say, Dr. W, like everybody else on...

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Posted by Denni on October 27, 2004 08:46 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Pumpkin gallore!

Just in time for Halloween, the shops are flooded with pumpkins. Halloween is a celtic festival, you know, and it is the Irish who brought the art of pumpkin carving to America. But apart from carving, you can always eat...

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Posted by Denni on October 27, 2004 04:36 PM
Category: 'Round the World Recipes

October 26, 2004

John Peel dead

While I am sitting at the computer, radio one usually plays in the background. I am still dumbfounded by the news I heard. The legendary radio DJ and Godlike Genius John Peel is dead. Along with millions of listeners all...

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Posted by Denni on October 26, 2004 07:59 PM
Category: Neither here nor there

A wild goose chase (1)

I had planned to visit the fish-market in Negombo later in the day, but first it was time to make a few phone calls. Reluctantly. The Sri Lankan phone system remined me of India back in '85. At times the...

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Posted by Denni on October 26, 2004 03:09 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 25, 2004

Curd and Treacle

On the long drive through the dark back down the Kalpitya peninsula, we started to feel hungry. There was nowhere between here and Palavi where we could stop for food. So we talked about it instead. "I could do with...

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Posted by Denni on October 25, 2004 02:47 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 24, 2004

The Turtle Beach

It was dusk before we reached Kalpitya itself, ostensibly the last settlement on the peninsula, but rows of palm-thatch huts lined the sandy track almost all the way to the sea at Dutch Bay. Here, a new sand bank had...

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Posted by Denni on October 24, 2004 05:30 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 23, 2004

Yellow Oleander

The next day promised to be boring. I could not quite decide what to do with myself, when Maria phoned. She had a rare afternoon off from work and suggested we go on a drive along the coast. "We can...

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Posted by Denni on October 23, 2004 05:18 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 22, 2004

Ectoparasites

As I approached the gate of the house in Negombo, a black-and-brown furry blur rushed at me, accompanied by fierce flashing teeth and the sound of mad barking. Evidently the neighbours' dog, the one I had shouted at during the...

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Posted by Denni on October 22, 2004 05:58 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Apple Nobby Cake

We have a glut of apples at the moment. Before the birds and squirrels make short work of them, I sent John into the garden to pick a few for a quick autum treat. I know some mean German cake...

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Posted by Denni on October 22, 2004 05:39 PM
Category: 'Round the World Recipes

October 21, 2004

The Eco Tour (2)

Of the world's seven species of marine turtles, five come ashore to nest in Sri Lanka. They are the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), olive ridley turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea), loggerhead (Caretta caretta), hawksbill (Eritmochilys imbricata) and leatherback (Dermochylys coriacea). The 2.5...

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Posted by Denni on October 21, 2004 05:56 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Curry Night (1)

Always a treat, if not quick to prepare, we aim to have a curry every week. As the chill of autum draws in, the chilli heat drives the cold away and earthy spices warm the body. During the drizzly Scottish...

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Posted by Denni on October 21, 2004 02:58 PM
Category: 'Round the World Recipes

October 20, 2004

The Eco Tour (1)

The area around Tangalla promised some spectacular beaches, but I was attracted to this town because of its proximity to Rekawa. It was there that one of the more active field-stations of NARA was based, carrying out extensive research on...

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Posted by Denni on October 20, 2004 09:09 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

No money, no way

I am out of money and out of words. I am stuck with my writing. There are still three deadlines outstanding:...

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Posted by Denni on October 20, 2004 03:08 PM
Category: publishing

October 19, 2004

Raja's Oasis

Weligama was the opposite of Mirissa. The bay was crowded not with tourists, but with fishermen. There were so many boats that it must have been overfished. The main catch appeared to be tiny sardinellas....

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Posted by Denni on October 19, 2004 03:08 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 18, 2004

South

I never met the people at NARA again because I could not make myself understood on the phone. My accent is bad, but even A seemed to have difficulties. The main problem was that I did not know the name...

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Posted by Denni on October 18, 2004 02:41 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 17, 2004

NARA

After one day of doing absolutely nothing, I was numb with boredom. I decided to check out the NARAheadquarters in Colombo. There might still be people working there who had been involved with the National Marine Mammal Programme in the...

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Posted by Denni on October 17, 2004 12:52 PM
Category:

October 16, 2004

Trial by bus

Getting a bus back to Kandy and, more importantly, seats should not be a problem, seeing that we were staying opposite the bus station at the eastern terminus of the Trinco-Kandy service. However, there were no private buses that morning...

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Posted by Denni on October 16, 2004 02:34 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 15, 2004

Return to Trincomalee

The next morning John and I found ourselves in another minibus, speeding back towards Trinco. John had agreed to come along because he figured I could do with some support. I did my best to sell him the charms of...

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Posted by Denni on October 15, 2004 02:53 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Stout, steak and kidney pie

Autum is here. The trees on the hills are blushing with the first colours of fall, mist creeps into the valley at night and the time has come for warm, comforting dishes....

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Posted by Denni on October 15, 2004 02:13 PM
Category: 'Round the World Recipes

October 14, 2004

Water shortages, forest fires and whale talk

Every drop of water had to be labourously transferred to a tank on the roof and all we got was a trickle from the taps and the occasional flush of the cistern. Rob had managed to borrow a pump from...

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Posted by Denni on October 14, 2004 07:08 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Plans for Portugal

I spent most of the afternoon exploring my options for my birthday-trip in November. Basically these are two-fold: Head south to Morocco via Gibraltar or explore Portugal. Both options are constrained by time (15 days) and budget. The former is...

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Posted by Denni on October 14, 2004 06:01 PM
Category: publishing

October 13, 2004

A troubled history

Over dinner, the discussion turned back to the weather. Incredibly, the looming clouds had again dissipated. There had been little rain since October and everybody was waiting for the northeast monsoon to pick up belatedly. I had gained an indication...

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Posted by Denni on October 13, 2004 02:37 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 12, 2004

Christmas in Kandy

Kandy, the final stronghold of the Buddhist kings and home to the sacred relic of the Buddha's tooth ('sweet tooth' jokes abound) nestles by an artificial lake at the foot of the highlands. Here in the hills, it was markedly...

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Posted by Denni on October 12, 2004 03:38 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 11, 2004

Elephants, Porcupines and Propositions (2)

In Pinnawela, Kunara refused to join us on our trip to the orphanage. "Oh come on", we pleaded: "We can take the labtops with us so nobody can steal them." "It is not just that" he replied: "Its the car!"...

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Posted by Denni on October 11, 2004 08:02 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 10, 2004

Elephants, Porcupines and Propositions (1)

The next day, my arms and legs were pock-marked with mosquito bites. I carried a cut lime around to rub on my skin in an attempt to ease the fierce itching. I was high on histamines....

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Posted by Denni on October 10, 2004 07:44 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 09, 2004

The night of the lost pocket knife

Back at Trinco Rest, my unease returned. I did not want to take a precious valium, so I had a drink, chasing one peril with another. Daytime drinking was bad news, but at least it was now late afternoon....

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Posted by Denni on October 9, 2004 09:15 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Venison with cider and black pudding

Stirling's once-a-month Farmer's Market has gone to crap. Once you could buy Gloucester Old Spot pork and propper game there. It was a bijou version of a proper market like the ones I remember from my childhood, an embryonic promise...

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Posted by Denni on October 9, 2004 03:16 PM
Category: 'Round the World Recipes

October 08, 2004

An afternoon stroll

I had arranged a tuk-tuk for 11 o'clock. The commander, who had borrowed my book on whales, had hinted that he might drop by at Trinco Rest when he finished work at 11:30. It turned out that a family of...

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Posted by Denni on October 8, 2004 06:43 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

Off to Portugal

Landround Travel have sent a letter after they could not reach me by phone. When I called back they just wanted to confirm my first choice of destination and date for my complementary flight to Europe -- no hard sell...

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Posted by Denni on October 8, 2004 06:06 PM
Category: Neither here nor there

October 07, 2004

Tension

Back at the French Garden, I suddenly felt depressed. The experiences of the past few days were catching up with me. How was it that this holiday had turned into some kind of expedition? Why was I chasing after pipe...

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Posted by Denni on October 7, 2004 04:41 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 06, 2004

Crazy night out

The harbour master had been in a jolly mood all along, telling the Captain that I was his new wife and trying to pair me off with two young crew members on the pilot boat with whom he made me...

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Posted by Denni on October 6, 2004 04:34 PM
Category: The Whales of Trincomalee

October 04, 2004

London's worst

The problem with a brief visit to old haunts to have a laugh with mates is that you end up with a backlash of teary nostalgia, but yesterday really took the bisquit....

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Posted by Denni on October 4, 2004 10:09 PM
Category: Travels on my Doorstep

October 02, 2004

Back in da hood!

The ghetto has shrunk. This is a sure sign that I have been away for some time. I remember that on my return from boarding school my hometown always appeared smaller. When I came back from my trans-Africa trip it...

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Posted by Denni on October 2, 2004 02:57 PM
Category: Travels on my Doorstep
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