Tiger Leaping Gorge: The fleeting scent of happiness
Fri-Sat, 1-2 June 2007
I heard about the Tiger Leaping Gorge before even setting foot in China. So has everyone else it seems. It’s one of the deepest gorges in the world, measuring 3900m from the waters of the Yangzi River to the snow capped mountains.
So, on the morning of my departure, I was a bit apprehensive about the two day trek, not wanting to share the world renowned scenery with stampeding crowds.
I need not have worried. 3 hours later, and no crowds in sight, I stepped from the minibus and onto a quiet footpath leading into the gorge.
Also on the trek with me, was Charles, a professor of biology at the University of Sudbury, north of Toronto. He specialises in rivers, lakes and enjoyment of life.
I could not have imagined a better trekking companion. We shared the same child-like fascination with plants and flowers, and consequently lagged far behind the other trekkers as we marvelled at the blaze of flowers in bloom.
I always thought of gardens as plant zoos and so was thrilled to see the plants in their natural habitat, growing freely and without constrictions: some of those I recognised were wild azaleas, irises and heavenly perfumed geraniums.
Nobody wants to read about someone gushing about their wonderful memories, so suffice to say, I spent two magical days stocking up on vitamins for the mind and soul, entranced into silence by the majestic mountains, their pine covered spines twisting down to the river snaking its tortuous way through the gorge.
The trek finished, we hit the hard, tarmacked reality. We had to make our way back to Lijiang as Charles had to fly back to Toronto later that evening. The road through the gorge seemed a lot more treacherous than the steep footpath we had been used to. There were two huge landslides which completely obstructed and demolished parts of the road. This meant we had to catch a van until the first landslide, get off, clamber over massive rocks and onto the next waiting van, and so on.
Sitting on the back of one of the vans, wind in our hair, holding on for dear life as the van teetered on the edge of the precipice, all my senses felt heightened.
I was intoxicated by the the fleeting scent of happiness.
Tags: China, China and South East Asia, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, trekking, Yunnan
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