In The Mood For Sushi
15 November 2005 (Tuesday) – Cochabamba, Bolivia
Nice to be able to sleep in this morning for I have nothing to do today, save for a candle-making course later in the afternoon.
I know… candle-making course, you asked?? Am I retired or something?? First, vitrofusion and now, candle-making?? All these frivolous activities to pass the time seemed only for those who had earned their retirement. Well, what can I do? Unlike everyone else here, as I had discovered yesterday, I am not studying or working or doing volunteer work in Cochabamba.
Gee… what shall we have for lunch today? If you ask me, which unfortunately nobody does, I am in the mood for sushi. Yes, SUSHI! I am sick and tired of the salty, greasy food here, the meat meat meat, and always the fries… I want something simple and bland!
South Americans are really liberal with salt. Oftentimes, I would taste the soup and think it is way too salty. But without tasting it, the locals would sprinkle salt on their food liberally and if they are in a chifa (Chinese restaurant), douse their food with soya sauce. In Arequipa, I abandoned an entire bowl of soup, thinking the cook had made a mistake as it was way too salty. My host Fernando decided to try it, and he told me it was normal. So, he lapped it up on my behalf.
I am usually not quite a veggie person and I never thought I would miss vegetables – green leafy vegetables like xiao bai cai, kang kong… And yes, some FISH please! Yes, ok, trucha (trout) was an option in Copacabana and La Paz, but fish was always fried. Nobody here in South America seems to know any other way of cooking fish. Way back in Brazil, my eyes glowed when I spotted ‘fish in tomato sauce’ in a menu. Upon ordering it, I found that the fish was STILL FRIED, but with some tomato sauce on top. Sigh…
Naturally, once again, with no other choice, I had to settle for a local dish – silpancho, which is deep-fried breaded meat, with an egg on top and sprinkled with raw onions and tomatoes and yes, a generous dose of rice and fries hidden underneath the meat. Very, very greasy, as usual.
After lunch, I decided to spend a couple of hours sitting under the shade in Plaza 14 de septiembre, and read my book – Eva Luna. Well, the entire population of Cochabamba had the same idea, minus the book. I had to walk around the plaza several times to hunt for a space amongst the benches. Each time I spotted one from way off, a señora would lumber there before me. Finally, I found one, albeit somewhat in the basking sun, but nevermind.
Soon, I spotted the Japanese guy who used to be in my room in La Paz. I had not really talked to him then, because he speaks neither English nor Spanish. I waved to him, and he seemed happy to see me, nodding and smiling earnestly. I bet he missed sushi as well. I asked him when he left La Paz, where he went, when he arrived in Cochabamba…
As he could not even get the days of the week right, I decided to abandon this string of conversation as it was going nowhere. I then asked if he wanted to go to Torotoro. Thank goodness, today, I had brought along the fancy brochures from the Tourist Office. I showed him the brochures and mimed ‘Dinosaur Tracks’ which was not that difficult as there was a convenient picture of dinosaurs on the brochures, and I could mime ‘tracks’ easily. But for ‘fossilized marine creatures’… hmmm… you try miming that to someone who speaks no English or Spanish!
Three words. It’s a Thing. First word. Three syllabus. First syllabus. Sounds like… FOUR…. Duh.
I gave up. But talented as I am, I whipped out my notebook and drew a fossilized marine creature. He seemed thoroughly impressed. “Do you want to go?” I asked. “Yesyesyesyes…”, nodding and smiling earnestly. I could not tell if he even understood me. I wondered vaguely if I were to tell him something ridiculous, like, guess what… I have 3 breasts. He might still go, “Yesyesyesyes…”, nodding and smiling earnestly.
Anyway, I asked him which hostel he was at. He could not even tell me that. He searched his haversack. I thought he was looking for a map, but no, he whipped out his digital camera and showed me the hostel sign which he had taken a picture of earlier. Oh, hello… who needs map now when you can match your hostel to the digital image you have captured earlier? No wonder the Japanese are much more advanced in terms of technology than everyone else. I told him I would meet him tomorrow at his hostel at 10am and we would go buy the bus tickets together.
Gee… I wonder how it would be like to travel with someone you could not even talk to.
Anyway, I went to the shop and learnt the art of decorative candle-making from Karina. I learnt 4 different styles and I made lots of notes as there were so many things to be aware of. Thoroughly interesting and all very lovely. Well, if ever I do make the glass jewelleries and glass items like candle-holders back in Singapore, perhaps, I can make candles as well to go along. I am so in touch with my creative self, aren’t I? I just hope no one steals my candles along the way!
In the evening, I went to Pasteleria Sofia. Yesterday, I had left messages in 2 hostels, saying that I would meet whoever who is interested in going to Torotoro at this pastry shop between 7:30pm and 8:30pm. I ordered tea, a delicious pastry, and read my book. Each time someone came in, I looked up but they were always Bolivians. Well, in the end, no one came. But I prided myself for having picked this cosy little pastry shop with excellent and very cheap desserts and cakes.
Tags: 09) Bolivian Rhapsody, Cochabamba
swesn
November 19th, 2005 at 10:44 am
Hi. Before you leave Cochabamba, make sure you eat “salteñas”! If you don’t like very spicy food, have “salteña dulce” or “sin picante”. One of the best places is “Los castores”, located in “El prado”, which is one of the most popular streets in Cochabamaba and is only a few blocks north of “calle 25 de mayo”; you have probably already been there. There’s also good sushi at the “Brazilian Coffee”, in “El prado”, as well. A lot of tourists go to “los cafes” at “calle España y Ecuador”. These streets are also near calle 25 de mayo and “el prado”. “Los cafes” are several coffee shops in that area and they usually get busy starting at 8pm. Everything is pretty much walking distance, as you may have noticed, but if you choose to walk south, be careful with your belongings. Nicer areas are usually north of “plaza principal”, which is the plaza where you saw the condor at the top of the obelisk.
November 19th, 2005 at 3:20 pm
Thanks for the advice. I love salteñas, had 1 nearly every morning…