Honour Thy Hammock
27 July 2005 (Wednesday) – Belem to Manaus, Brazil
Although Amazon Star was leaving at 6pm this evening, the senhora from the hostel had told me yesterday to get to the docks by 7am to put up my hammock first in the riverboat so as to secure a good place. She suggested as far as possible, to hang it as near to the front portion of the boat.
I reached the docks at around 7am and it was already very crowded with people. There was a massive queue. I made inquiries but no one seemed to know where I should go. I decided to just skip the entire queue and go straight in front. To my surprise, they just let me in. But after a while, they said I needed to exchange my receipt for a proper ticket at a booth somewhere, etc… and I had to get out again. A little chaotic, but I got onto the riverboat eventually.
I followed some people, all tugging and heaving their massive luggage, into a huge hall. There, people were already hanging their hammocks hastily. I was about to hang mine when a guy asked to see my ticket. Apparently, I had to get it registered first. OK, so I abandoned my hammock and hunted for the place for registration. By the time I was back, the guy had already helped me hang my hammock. I looked around. It was very close to the hammocks nearby and in each, there seemed to be babies, toddlers and pre-schoolers everywhere. Hmmm… these would be my neighbours for the next 5 days??
Anyway, I left my hammock there and returned to town. Now, despite the chaos just now, I had to trust the Brazilian Hammock Honour System and pray that by the time I return this afternoon, no one ELSE would lay claim to my hammock and pretend to be his or hers and I would then be left without a ‘home’.
You see, before coming to Belem, I talked about this trip with Gisele, my host in Natal. I was reluctant to buy a new hammock as I would need to carry it thereafter. What would I do with it? I rather buy a cheap second-hand hammock and then, sell it away thereafter or give to someone. I thought most people travelling on the riverboat would think like this. Hence, I had imagined a second-hand market somewhere in Belem, teeming with used hammocks for resale from travellers who had come from Manaus.
When I suggested this, Gisele gave me a look of horrors. She explained that hammocks are like linen, they are personal, almost every Brazilian, at least those from the Northeast and the North, would have their own hammocks, hardly anyone shares with strangers. If one hammock had gone too funky or had fallen apart, they would buy another. No hammocks are resold.
Ah. OK. Now I understand. Hence, leaving my hammock alone in the riverboat teeming with passengers who are rushing onboard to hang theirs and secure good places, I just have to trust that no one else messes with mine.
Upon my return in the late afternoon, I boarded the riverboat and the crew indicated that I belonged to the Lower Deck. I looked at it and did not recognise it. For a moment, I thought I was on the wrong riverboat. Or someone had moved my hammock. But no, this was the right one. Then, where is my hammock?
Finally, I realised that I had hung my hammock at the Upper Deck which is the air-conditioned area. And my ticket is for the non-air-conditioned area. What a stupid mistake!!!!!! But, wait… the Lower Deck looked absolutely horrendous. I saw sacks of onions, potatoes, flour, etc… being stacked up at the end of the hall. This looked more ‘container’ class than ‘hammock’ class.
I went to the Upper Deck and indeed, found my hammock and indeed, the place looked more decent. So I returned, asking if I could pay more for the price difference and stay at the Upper Deck. The crew took my ticket, fingered it a while, had a short discussion amongst themselves and told me to stay there, no problem. Oh, what luck! Obrigada!
I lay down my things and surveyed the area. Gosh, it was SO CRAMPED. There was a woman asleep in the next hammock, and on my other side, a couple of children. As theirs were hung slightly higher than mine, my hammock was practically hidden underneath. I gingerly got in. I adjusted myself several times, trying to be comfortable. Gosh, if I lay down, I would really be engulfed in the darkness now and my back would touch someone’s luggage. The grumpy-faced woman next to me soon got up and muttered something to me. I peeked into her hammock and found a one-month-old baby there. Shit, I could not breathe here, I could not move an inch at all without creating a wave, nudging into elbows and knees or overturning a baby or toddler!! Then, I caught a whiff of milk vomit. That’s it, I had to move! I felt just negative energy here. And FAST!! Before other OK spots get taken up.
I hunted around and found a spot right in the interior. Looked rather spacious. I asked the guys nearby if it was OK to hang my hammock here. Everyone around gestured in consent, suggesting from which poles I should do it. Great. I sensed better energy here too. When I dragged my hammock here, a smiley elderly guy even got up to help me. Several people also looked at me with some amusement and smiles. Hmm… finally, a much larger personal space. I could rock, I could sway. Just great.
There are 8 bars that run the length of the hall up above. To hang your hammock, you hang it between Bar 1 and 3, Bar 2 and 4, Bar 3 and 5, etc… You get the idea.
It was then that I finally found time to seriously look around me at the barrage of colours – yellow, green, aqua blue, cobalt blue, lime green, orange, red rose, purple, white, black, grey, striped, checked, army-motifs, with crochet trimmings, with prints of Bananas in Pyjamas, etc… hammocks of different shapes, sizes, materials all criss-crossing all over the hall. Wow, what a sight!! It was unbelievable! And so… this would be my home for the next 5 days… I cannot imagine.
Later, I attempted to count the number of hammocks in the hall – more than 200!!
Tags: 04) A River Runs Through It, Belem
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