City of Cultures
4 September 2005 (Sunday) – Medellin, Colombia
The journey last night on the night bus was less than comfortable and I reached Medellin, extremely exhausted. I took the metro straight to the centre and walked from hotel to hotel and, to my surprise, they were all full. I guess at that time, around 7am, it was too early.
After 1 hour of walking around the centre, I took the metro again to a more residential area and found Palm Tree Hostel. As it was a hostel, thank goodness, they had a bed for me coz I was physically too tired to walk around anymore with my backpack. And wow, it was a really great hostel, very guest-friendly and in a safe middle-class neighbourhood with a gigantic supermarket right in front. Perfect.
As I had my breakfast, I read on the notice-board that every Sunday at 11am, there is a symphony orchestra from the University of Antioquia at Plaza de Bolivar. Although bone-tired, I decided to head there for a look. First, I went inside the impressive Cathedral Metropolitana in front of Plaza de Bolivar. This, I read, is one of the largest BRICK building of its kind in South America. Truly interesting architecture.
Outside at the plaza, I found the band getting ready, tuning away at their instruments. There was already a crowd gathered there. I tried to squeeze in and later, a guy in front of me left and so, lucky me, I had a clear view of the orchestra. As the instruments whined away, I kept looking out for the maestro. Where was he? Ah… soon, a guy with a white-mob of messy hair arrived, looking a little flustered, dropping his cane, no less. Yes, a maestro who looked his part.
The band played various pieces throughout the one hour. I observed the crowd standing all around. They were mainly middle-aged to elderly people, with some young people and children, but people who truly appreciated and respected music. Everyone looked very interested and attentive, basking in the delightful music. One little old lady even got up to dance at one of the pieces. I later saw her walking away with a cane, helped by her son. Yet, she had the ability to dance just now.
As I gazed around me at the quietly happy people, I could not help but recall all the advices and warnings I had received from people, who had either travelled or often, not… to Colombia, telling me how dangerous the country is. But looking at this and all the cities I had just been to, I felt everything was just normal. I was thankful that I was determined to come and experience the country for myself. Nothing like seeing and experiencing things first-hand. Everywhere, I saw humble people trying to make a living, trying to enjoy life. I saw signs telling the locals to keep the city clean and attractive, telling people to work hard like ants for a greater Colombia, telling touts not to harrass tourists in Cartagena. People do want a better life here, like everywhere else. There is nothing to fear here for the typical tourists, except perhaps robberies and thefts, as per normal all over South America.
True, the country’s politics is complicated by the many murders committed by the paramilitary and the guerillas and there was a silence amongst the locals who do not wish to talk about it, coz if they support either, they might be betrayed by spies from the other side. Helena, who had worked as a journalist for a radio station, was trying to show the other side of what was happening here (which I guess I should not talk about it). She filled me in briefly on what was happening in this country. Here, there is a saying: “If you do not open your mouth, no bullet will enter.” (Instead of ‘no fly will enter’.) So, we, as outsiders, I supposed, will mostly never learn what is truly going on in this country.
Bleidee, one of the girls I met in Tayrona, had watched her father shot to death. They are from one of the most violent areas. In the past, in broad day-light, they would hear gun-shots while they were at school and would have to duck under the tables for safety. Imagine growing up and living a life like that! Yet, they were such happy, carefree and spunky girls when I met them. Of course, these areas are the exact places that tourists and normal Colombians would not go to.
Medellin is truly a city of cultures. After the symphony orchestra, I wandered to Plazoleta de las Esculturas where there are quite a number of Fernando Botero‘s, Colombia’s most famous artist, very interesting fat sculptures. Fernando Botero had visited Singapore not so long ago, bringing with him, several of his famous sculptures. So for several months, his sculptures were all over Singapore. And my other reason for coming to Colombia was to see his sculptures and paintings in the various museums here. In the Museo de Antioquia, there is a huge hall with his paintings. One funny one I remember was that of Pablo Escobar, the famed drug-lord from Medellin, standing on the roof of a house and having a huge load of bullets flying towards him.
Another interesting pair of sculptures are Botero’s Pajeros de Paz (Bird of Peace) sitting at Parque San Antonio. In 1995, the first sculpture was seriously damaged by a bomb placed there by guerillas, killing about 20 people. The damaged sculpture is still standing there, with a plaque listing the names and ages of the people killed. Gosh, they ranged from 7 years old to 40 years old, but many were young teenagers. Very sad. Now, another Pajero de Paz is placed next to the damaged one in a symbolic protest against the violent act.
By chance, I stumbled upon a parade of people displaying the traditional costumes and dances of Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Venezuela and Colombia. They blocked an entire avenue and danced merrily with their colourful costumes and interesting rhythms.
Wow, truly, a city of cultures!
Tags: 06) Colombia Connection, Medellin
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