9/28 Sun – Siena
Great sleep – we are on the 3rd floor, of course we didn’t have any luggage anyway, the church bells are chiming, it is a lovely day. Took some pictures out of our window. Our hostess arrives with breakfast, rolls, meats, cheeses, and an omelet we share with another couple who are from England – again delightful conversation.
Now we set out to see Siena. Rod calls Pete Hetzner’s (Kiwanis) daughter who is going to school here and of all things she is in Florence today. We should have realized she might not be home on a weekend, he has a nice conversation with her and we promise to get up here during the week (we didn’t).
Now for the Siena adventure. First our luggage has to be taken to the car which is just outside the great wall. Last night there was quite a commotion going on from inside the wall where their stadium is located, sounded like african drums and lots of yelling, we later find out why. Every July 2 & Aug 16 a no holds barred horse race the Palio de Siena) is held with 10 of 17 neighborhoods competing (they rotate). Then the winner celebrates the whole month of September. This is what we heard.
We head to “Il Campo” Siena’s main square where city hall with its 330 ‘ tower is located and where competitions have been held from medieval times. It is huge. The square and its buildings are the color of the local soil which artists use and its called “Burnt Sienna”. The chapel at the base of the tower was built in 1348. Also in the square is the Fonte Gaia (Fountain of Joy); the left panel shows God creating Adam by helping him to his feet. This reclining Adam influenced Michelangelo when he painted his Sistine Chapel ceiling. Here we get our daily fix of gelato. Delicious.
On our way to Siena’s Duomo (cathedral) we discover Palazzo Chigi Saracini (palace of Count Saracini who died in 1965 ending the line) now turned into a famous music school, Accadamia Musicale Chigiana. A tour of the palace is offered in an hour so we pick up tickets to take it in.
Siena’s Duomo (cathedral) sits on Siena’s highest point, visible for miles around. Dating to 1215; It is white and green striped on the outside, very ornate interior with striped columns, intricate marble inlays, Michelangelo statues and Bernini sculptures. In the Piccolomini Library, there is a series of huge frescoes by Pinturicchio from Umbria telling the story of Aeneas Piccolomini who became Pope Pius II. The marble inlays on the floors in this cathedral are magnificent – both scenes and people are carved into the marble on the floor.
Back to the Palazzo for our tour – we were only allowed to take pictures of the music room so the rest has to stay in our memories. Many magnificent rooms with a fine collection of paintings, tapestries, bronze statues and the rooms themselves were very interesting as this is the way counts and countesses lived.
We head back to our car via the back side of the cathedral which is a surprise because we are so high that we get a very nice view of the town from here. Very pleasant walk along the curved narrow streets – we wind up at the church of San Domenico so we take a quick look. Here the 17 colorful flags of the city’s contrade (neighborhoods) are on display. Paintings from the life of St. Catherine, patron saint of Siena.
Leaving Siena turns out to be a lot easier than when we came in and we are off back to San Vincenzo. We opt for the faster route this time, only we find Maggie is heading for Florence which is north but turns out great as we see about 30 km north the highway heading west through San Gimigano and Volterra and down to Cecina so we made it back lickidy split. We even have time to stop at our supermarket to load up on groceries which was always an interesting adventure trying to figure out the Italian meanings on the packages. Again hardly anyone spoke english but it was great fun mixing with the locals, something you sure don’t get on an organized tour.
Tags: Travel