Sahara and tourists traps
August 10th, 2009Alright….. so Laura and I headed out the hostel around six or seven a.m…. can´t remember exactly. We were headed on a tour through the Atlas Mountains through Berber villages and then a night in a hotel and then the second night in some tents in a section of the sahara which included a camel ride and shit. So we pack into a mini-van type thing with about twelve other people. Two were from Boston, a couple, Leigh and Zara. Good energy. More piled in, two Canadians, two Slovenians, Two English, and about four Japanese I beleive…One Chinese…..like it really matters….. I was glad it was such a good group of people. Everything seemed to flow really well. No total assholes or annoying fucks, which was good, hopefully I wasn´t one of them either..ha.
Pay our fee and head out on the road towards…I really wasn´t sure. Most of the trip I was kinda out of things. I´m lazy so I just was kinda carted everywhere like a paralyzed cow. In between being carted around I would smoke cigarettes, drink water, and complain about the prices at all the tourist traps our asshole driver was stopping at. The van was pretty much a mid-size traveling furnace with twelve jews inside. It wasnt so bad for Laura and I cause we had windows right next to us so we were getting blasted with wind which was better than none at all. But soon the peeps behind us would ask us to close the window cause they were getting blasted with stagnant 110 degree heat…oops..sorry….not really though..I was quite liking my luxury. anyway. This is the most water I´ve ever drank in my life. A liter every couple of hours..maybe more.
It is hard for me not to talk about inner change and turmoil throughout the rest of this Morocco trip. I´ve realized a lot about myself and my attitude….and realized a whole lot about other people in general and keeping a more open mind to differences….I´ve always preached it but never really felt it. I knew intellectually that it was more benefitting to accept others differences but at times I did not feel the same. What I mean by differences is mainly in ideas. Although I´ve always had a problem connecting with people who come from money. More yet…I´ve always had a mistrust of those who seem to have come from a healthy supporting home. I´ve always been kinda scared, not in a fear way, but in a way as if looking at those persons as some kind of brainwashed entity…..aliens of some sort. I just don´t want to get involved in the happy go lucky bullshit, but at the same time I´ve realised that I have a hard time admitting when I´m actually happy, and not feeling weird about it. Happy is a vague term but I don´t want to turn this into a pity party…any way..fuck it…snap out of it ya little baby! The critic. I don´t really know how I´ve trailed off in this direction but whatever.
So yeah the traveling furnace. As we started going through the Atlas mountains I felt a surge of nausea. I close my eyes and breathed deeply trying not to let myself know to others cause I didn´t want to fuck up anyones good time…but I don´t think anyone was having any of that at that point. I was thinking of three possible things that I could do if I spewed. One, out the window…but the wind coming in so strong that I was afraid of the people in the back getting sprayed…that´d be bad…but funny. Two, spew in my book bag and zip it up ….didn´t know what I was gonna do with it after but oh well. Three, yell the bus driver to stop and run out and releive myself. It never came to any of that though. I just got through it through visuals and deep breathing. Later on I learned others were feeling the same way.
After everyone was tired and sluggish from sweating their clits and nuts off.. others decided the air should be turned on. As long as I was by the window I didnt mind not having the air on but that would have been selfish….but better none the less. So one of the guys in teh group, Bachir, great guy…didn´t give a fuck what anyone thought of him and I respected this cause I am totally not there yet…it´ll take some time. He knew Arabic and French. Our driver knew zilch in the English department so Bachir was kinda like a diplomat….or translator. He was the foreign relations guy. The driver told him if we wanted the air on we had to pay. I came up with the solution that we just beat the fuck outta him and tie him to the roof but no one wanted to partake. My litte revolution wasn´t gonna happen….so I decided on a terrorist attack but that would only make me the bad guy. Anyway. All of our dumbasses paid. He supposidley turned the air on but it felt more like air was just coming through the vents from outside. Everyone psychologically tricked themselves into thinking they were cooler….while Laura and I just looked at eachother and rolled our eyes as sweat dripped everywhere. I mouthed to her as if I was taking my last breath “open the windows”. But we were outnumbered and our only hope was to wait until they all stopped convincing themselves they were less hot. Double think. I couldn´t blame them…..
We stopped at random picture takeing places. Got out walked around for 10 minutes until our driver called us back in. I felt like an idiot listening to this guy. I never looked at him or acknowledged him the whole trip cause he really didn´t acknowledge us either. I get it, it was his job to tote around a bunch of unsuspecting tourists, but at least get someone who spoke English, and didn´t charge us for air conditioning that didn´t even work. Fuck.
We stopped at where we were supposed to eat. Wherever we stopped the driver got comission on whatever we bought at the shops selling bullshit. He started to get mad cause we were all broke and none of us bought anything…haha fucker!! We walked into the restaurant that spelled tourist trap all over it. Like I´m gonna pay that! We walked down the road to a place half the price.
Drove some more. Stopped at another picture taking place. I´d about had it with all this crap. I noticed two guys sitting in a white yugo car type thing blasting music and drinking beer. I started walking toward them, they seemed friendly. I got to the sid e of the car. “Hola” “Hey, come over here” I ducked down into the car and they handed me a beer. They were smashed. The driver kept talking about how he loved that he could drive around smashed. He was from a village not too far down the road but he lived in Brooklyn, NYC. He told me how he used to work for the tour company that I was a slave to. He said the owner just wanted money and he was tired of ripping people off. I told him how we were charged for air and they both laughed as if they knew already. They were musicians who played in a spanish music band at the hotel he owned just down the street from the hotel we were gonna stay in. I downed the beer and headed back to the van. He invited me and whoever wanted to come to his hotel where there was alcohol….(no alcohol in muslim country, but the berber villages didn´t have to follow this code). I wanted to go but never made it…we were all too tired. Got to the hotel. they fed us, Tagine, and soup. Pretty good. a bowl of fruit. Went to bed
Had breakfast the next morning. Coffen, bread and jam. headed out again. Stopped in a gorge which was refreshing. It was much cooler and there was a clear stream down the middle. I waddle in it for some time. Laura and I were on a budget so bread and cheese and some orange flavored drink stuff…..let´s call it orange drink. Full. headed out to a down and throught the town to a field where a bunch of women were picking something. They say it was alfafa I think… but Leigh kept joking about how it was heroin or poppy plant and we wouldn´t know the difference. A “guide” was waiting for us there. No one ever told us what was going on or gonna happen so we all just kinda dumbly walked and waited for something to happen. He started telling us how the women in the fields pick this shit and they work hard and……yeah thats all he pretty much said just in about six different ways. He could sense our agitation and boredom and he started to get mad. He yelled at us as if we were his children. “if you already know everything then I just won´t speak then”…..I had no objection to this but we all kinda laughed cause there was really no reason for him to get mad . We were on to his schtick and he didn´t like it. We weren´t a bunch of dumbasses as maybe they´ve had before….but whatever…again. A bunch of women started yelling at him. Bachir said they were telling him to get us out of here. that we had no business being there. It was weird. We go into a house and into this guys house who selled carpets. He poured us all some tea and gave us the bullshit sshpeel on how we are welcome and blah blahb blah..culture, people, the way we live…blah blah blah. I was getting tired of that shit. Sorry if I come off as insensative but really….you can tell when it is gunuine and when its not..and most the time…I´d say 90% of th time it wasn´t. So he pulled out all of these rugs that his sister and wife or whatever woman had made and he exlplained the patterns and all that. After about showing us thirty rugs or so he started talking about how we should open our hearts and our pocket books to show resepect or some hogwash. He sat in the middle of the room…we were all sitting there indian style waiting for something to happen. It was very very awkward. It was totally silent for about five minutes. He sat there just staring at us and looking us down waiting for one of us to crack and buy a rug. We all looked at eachother with a grin on our faces. I couldn´t help it… I broke down and started laughing, a few giggles followed.. my face turned red and I couldn´t look anywhere cause I´d break out in laughter again. He finally got the picture and showed us the way out. It was one of the most awkward moments I´ve been in.
We head out and straight for the dessert to the camel rides which is what everyone was waiting for. Pull off onto a gravel road for a while. Pretty bumpy. I had to piss. Finally got to the camels. The dessert was a beautiful sight. It looked like orange milk with ripples in it. I spotted my camel, the biggest baddest one. I seen across the way some else in the group had eyed it too. “It´s mine” “No, he´s mine”….we both headed toward the camel but he was closer and he got´em. oh well. The camels didn´t seem to be in very good shape. One the peeps back in our hostel in Marrakesch was saying how her friends camel had collapsed and she was too frightened to get back on it so she walked the whole way through the dessert. next to it. They had scars all over the backs of their legs and weird branding marks on there thighs and necks. They looked miserable..but I really had nothing to compare them too. Got on our humps and waited to go. My camel was a grouch and was behind Laura´s camel which was huge. My camel kept biting hers on the ass. Laura turned around and started yelling at my camel….I patted him on the buttocks…”good job buddy”. I lit a cigarette to add effect to the whole scenerio…yes…lame. oh yeah, they were shitting everywhere. Nuggets came pouring out there anus. They lookes like black olives or better yet, those malt chocolates known as whoppers. Mine of course had the runs and shat all down its hind legs.. Go figure. So we had a kinship from the beginning. It was astonishing how easy they made it seem to walk in the sand the way they did. Their hoofs are great for that shit. We hit a sand storm about halfway through and noticed a tornado ahead about a mile or so. It didnt last long. It started to downpour with huge drops of water. It felt so good. aahhhh. Rain in the sahara…great.
We get to our site. A bunch of tents in a circular shape. Most of us slept outside though. Behind the tents was a huge sand dune. It didn´t seem like it would be much effort or take too long to get to the top….I was wrong…dead fuckin wrong at that. About halfway through I pretty much collapsed to the ground. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed others passing me up…”oh hell no” I was on a mission…….competition…I´m usually not like this but it was fun. I came in third. Everybody else trailed behind but eventually made it. Laura´s camera busted. Damn. oh well. Others were taking pictures and said they post them up..so Í´ll just have to wait. Ran down the dune. Laid around for a while. dinner came. Good shit.
The guys who were our guides started playin their music with tribal bongos and some other instrument that sounded like a real intrusive tambourine. Nice listening to. Some of the girl started dancing and I felt embarrassed. I´m not totally sure why…it was weird in a way. I got up anyway and did a dumb diddy, it was an all round ok time. It´s good to get out your comfort zone and laugh at yourself. I´m not above that.
Ended up fallin asleep. The sky was filled with stars. It was impressive.. Amost looked fake. Made me realize again that we were all on a planet called Earth. Floating in space, with endless possibilites. Life is a painfully beautiful experience.
Back on the camels to watch the sunrise. Quiet. Everyone was taking pictures so I decided to sit a little off and play with the sand and think. Got back to the starting point. Laura´s camel wouldn´t get down on its knees as fast as the guide wanted him to so he hauled off and punched the camel on the side of the head. Fuckin primate peice of shit. I wanted to kick his head in but that would only bring more trouble. I´ve come to judge how emotionally evolved certain cultures are due to how they treat their animals. Laura was astonished and gave a kinda gasp.
Had breakfast, crepes, jam, coffe tea. Took a shower. Headed back to Marrakesch. It was a long ride. Through the atlas mountains I started to feel sick again. One of the girls Zsara was also getting nautious. We had to pull over. Actually I think everyone was feeling sick. ugghh. Anyway.
We decided to say fuck it to the air conditioning. Pretty much everyone in the van wanted to kill the driver. We spoke of him with a venoumous tone.., daggin eyes at the back of his head.
Got to Marrakesch and we all had an orange juice before saying sianara. The best part of the trip were the people. I dindn´t paint the picture to well in detail throughout this blog. I´m so emotional sometimes that it paints over real intentions. But I´m not gonna get too deep cause it really wasn´t like that. It was just a good time with a great bunch of people even if we didn´t connect on any great level. Even though we were constantly being ripped off , it was nice having some comradery in all of it. I´d do it again.
Alright….that´s enough for now. I´m actually in Spain right now. I´m pretty far behind on the days….probably about by three weeks now…so I need to start writing more. It is very humid here and that puts me in a very very very lazy state of mind and mood. later.