Traveloscopy

Sub-Antarctic cruise aboard Silver Discoverer

// November 11th, 2015 // No Comments » // Cruise, Travel

It’s a bit like preparing for a military operation as we are plucked by the beleaguered deckhands from the stern transom into the lurching Zodiac. Trussed up in numerous layers of Gortex and looking almost like space explorers, we endure the biting sea spray whipped up by 30kt gusts as we seat our clumsy bottoms around the inflatable tender.

We push off and head to shore and are immediately hit by a brutal wave over the bow, drenching the first row of passengers. The enemy is not entrenched in bunkers on the beach awaiting our arrival, but rather blowing all around us like an angry bellows, whipping stinging spray into our faces and buffeting our Zodiac as if at the hand of a child’s tantrum.

Landing on the cobble beach at Buckles Bay is notoriously treacherous, but one of the few locations near the ANARE base where one is possible. In 1948 when the modern base was established, it was more out of respect for history than practicality. The site of Sir Douglas Mawson’s original 1911 site was used and expanded rather than a more accessible one found with a safe harbour and solid foundation.

Silversea staff are waist deep in frothing surf as our Zodiac is quickly backed up against the stony shore. One by one, between sets of breakers, we are hauled out of the rubber craft and deposited on the beach with some relief but also a sense of excitement at having completed the tricky job of getting ashore.

Apart from meteorology, biology and the reception of up to 1000 visitors per year, the base hosts TasmanianParks and Wildlife Service staff who recently celebrated the total eradication of introduced pests from Macquarie Island. No mean feat in itself, the eight year project involved the team of 12 hunters and 11 dogs walking 92,000km in search of surviving pests after the end of the aerial baiting program in 2011.

Alien species like horses, donkeys, pigs, cattle, goats, dogs and sheep were relatively easy to deal with. Cats took bit longer, with the last feline removed in 2000 after a decade-long campaign, but the rabbits, rats and mice proved the toughest task, requiring a combination of poisoning and hunting to reach total success. Even now, vermin patrols will be maintained for the time being to be absolutely certain.

After my first visit in 2010, the islands enthusiastic regeneration was evident with renewed vegetation regrowth covering the previously barren sections on hillsides and slopes. The four species of breeding penguin and albatross, as well as numerous other migratory seabirds can now nest unmolested on this southern paradise once brought to the brink by the careless and greedy hand of man.

Silversea Cruises returns to Macquarie Island in January 2016 aboard Silver Discoverer (Voyage 9601) sailing from Dunedin to Christchurch over 16 nights via the New Zealand subantarctic islands (Enderby and Auckland Islands, The Snares). Includes all dining, excursions, lectures, beverages, butler service and gratuities. See www.silversea.com

Expedition Cruising

Mix Me a Tui Tai, Darling

// February 6th, 2013 // No Comments » // Cruise, South Pacific, Travel

Fiji does hedonistic ‘escape’ packages up there with the best, but what about something that wraps all facets of these fascinating islands into one irresistible bundle? Roderick Eime disappears off the tourist map to find out.

Beyond the manicured lawns, swimming pools and cocktail bars of Denarau Island, there exists another Fiji; one of remote, deserted beaches, hundreds of uninhabited islands, unspoiled coral reefs and vivid cultural encounters. Many of these outer locations are easily accessible by light aircraft, but to voyage by small ship from a secret anchorage out into the tropical heaven is the sort experience you would only expect to read about in some flowery novel.

As our travel tastes mature and our expectations more sophisticated, the mundane and predictable “brochure” offerings become less alluring, hence the concept of small ship cruising. Niche, intimate and enriching, travel by vessels with as few as a couple of dozen guests enjoying superior service, cuisine and activities in a sustainable and culturally respectful manner is more and more appealing.

One of the best examples of this type of experience is that of Savusavu-based Tui Tai Expeditions. Tui Tai’s delightful three-masted design and generous interior space made her an ideal conversion for boutique itineraries. She was acquired by current owners Tige and Morika Young in 2002 and refitted to carry just 24 guests in comfortable cabins. In 2006, Tui Tai she was remodeled again with more luxurious refinements like a massage/spa studio, private cabanas and deluxe staterooms. There’s plenty of space to flop and relax with a book or just snooze and guests are free to be as active or as lazy as they want.

Tui Tai offers a catalogue of activities that encompasses every possible aspect of tropical island excitement. Scuba diving, kayaking, hiking, mountain biking, snorkeling, village visits and traditional dancing all pack into either a 5- or 7-night all-inclusive itinerary.

On board, you can enjoy private cabanas on the sun deck, spa treatments and marine biology lectures from the biologist travelling with you.

Dining is open air on the back deck and just superb under a brilliant star-lit sky on a balmy evening. A couple hundred metres from shore, your meal is undisturbed by mosquitoes or other flying pests. Alternatively, meals are served inside if it rains, which it will do occasionally in these parts.

Tui Tai’s playground is the gorgeous waters to the east of homeport, Savsavu on Vanua Levu. Each expedition cruise visits the lush garden island of Taveuni and its sublime Bouma Falls Reserve, the anomalous cultural enclaves of Rabi and Kioa, the uninhabited Ringgold Atolls and the eco-reserve of Qamea. National Geographic Adventure were impressed enough to list Tui Tai among their 25 best trips for 2009.

Visits to the islands of Rabi and Kioa deliver a particularly unique Fijian experience. The communities on these islands were moved to their present location from other islands in the Pacific.

My personal passion is scuba diving and Fiji is renowned the world over for its superb underwater opportunities. The outer reefs attract magnificent manta rays, dolphins and giant pelagic fish all against a backdrop of some of the most beautiful hard and soft corals anywhere. Divers of all experience can enjoy these waters and it’s even possible to acquire your PADI Open Water certification with the onboard instructor.

Relaxing in one of voluminous lounges on the deck, a satisfying lunch on top of my morning exercise, it’s easy to drift off into a carefree, fantasy slumber filled with reefs of colourful fish, secluded atolls the gentle flap of a sail in the breeze.

Fact File:

Tui Tai Expeditions offer 5- or 7-night all-inclusive itineraries ex-Savasavu. Fares begin at US$2493 per person, twin share for five nights and $2990 for seven. Suitable for all styles of traveller, but best enjoyed by the more active.

Further information: www.tuitai.com

Air Pacific flies daily from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne direct to Nadi with daily connections to Savusavu with Pacific Sun.

www.airpacific.com www.pacificsun.com.fj