Mondongo
Today I set out for the indigenous neighborhood west of town: Subtiava. I sat outside of san juan batista de subtiava, leon’s oldest church, until it opened and then paid my respects. It’s a wonderful old church that fronts a big empty and dusty square – not a gringo filled area to be sure ☺. afterwards, I decided to poke around some of the side-streets there and I am glad I did. I found dianna, on the curb outside her home, stirring a giant pot of mondongo (soup). After seeing many people from town lining up with their buckets to take some home I decided I couldn’t pass this up. Like many versions of soups popular on Sunday in latin America, this is a soup with pork stomach – aka tripe – at its heart.
First dianna grabbed a BIG bowl then proceeded to “build” my soup: a cooked plantain, then yucca and some squash from different pots. Next she picks out some choice pieces of tripe then spoons the yummy looking soup (filled with spices and veggies) on top of all this. No, I couldn’t eat the tripe but I did try it. I was also able to have a basic conversation with dianna letting her know this was my first bowl of mondongo and that I liked it very much. It was a great experience.
in the evening, after i finally got out to photograph churches in the nice light of late afternoon, i stopped behind the cathedral to buy meat and veggies that were being grilled on a street corner. i picked out a various items and it was all re-heated on coals and wrapped in a banana leaf so i could take it to eat it while i watch another movie tonight! it was a street food day and i realize i’m testing my constitution but man was everything i bought good.
My Spanish has progressed very little over the past few weeks and that is disappointing. I will try extra hard to get to Guatemala with enough time to take Spanish lessons for a couple weeks. I really want to do better. I’m about ready to launch from leon and I think I will try to make it to moyagalpa tomorrow. It’s in the mountains and much cooler. I think this change of pace will be nice and it also begins my trajectory towards Honduras. I haven’t thought much about what I will do there, sooooo….stay tuned.
Tags: central america, food, leon, mondongo, Nicaragua, Travel
Peggy Rehm
February 11th, 2008 at 4:52 am
Hey Peggy, I really like your blog very interesting. I’m a first time black female solo budget backpacker and I would like advice pertaining to everything and anything traveling solo. I’ll be heading off to Cuba in 2 weeks for the duration of 6 weeks I’m anxious, terrified, exited all wrapped up in one.
Hope to hear form ya
February 11th, 2008 at 9:29 am
Hi Nadira! i’ve heard such wonderful things about Cuba and the people from lots of people who include Cuba as part of their Central America trip. how exciting! Though i’ve traveled solo a bit before, this is my first extended trip. i, too, had all those feelings you described! but as soon as i arrived things fell right into place and LOTS of my anxieties disappeared. as a matter of fact, i wonder if i’ll ever be able to have travel partners again. it is so nice being free to do what you want and not compromise :). and when you want to meet people it is very easy to do so at hostels. my blog and sharing my photos helps me feel connected to family and friends back home. the internet is an amazing thing, huh? as far as safety goes – i have had no problems at all (knock on wood) i just stay aware of my belongings. i have found that people here are very respectful of solo women and go out of their way to help and make sure you do not feel threatened. honestly, i get fewer touts than most people. i do not do a lot of late night partying so that eliminates some risk as well. please come back and let us know how it’s going! best of luck to you!!!
February 13th, 2008 at 3:48 am
Hola Peggy! thanks a bunch reading your reply was very conforting, i needed that after all the horror stories i’ve read and heard. I’ll defenitely write to let ya’ll know how it’s going.
Muchas Gracias