Around The World

South Africa is a kaleidoscope of contrasts. The average person’s image of South Africa ranges from safari suits to apartheid, georgeous Table Mountain to Soweto, modern wines to AIDS. This is a country that needs to be seen to be comprehended. My first taste of Africa went from the five star Bangkok Novotel and Thai Airways first class to a backpacker’s dormitory.

We had booked an African Travel Co tour with On the Go and arrived in Jo’Burg as it is affectionately known, a day prior. The place was the Backpacker’s Ritz. It hardly was the ritz. Jetlag had set in so we slept for most of the day. We did make a small trip to the local shopping centre to purchase a memory chip for the camera and then to the service station that night for dinner.

Not many people have kind words to say about Jo’Burg and the razor wire fences seem to conjure these thoughts. The short walk to the service station had us worried with fear – all through hearsay.

The first full day in South Africa, I awoke refreshed and ready for a big day. My hopes were dashed, as there was a taxi strike on this day. The guy who owned the hostel said two white boys going into the centre of Johannesburg wasn’t the wisest of ideas so we decided to make alternate arrangements. We met a nice driver named Simon who took us to the Apartheid Museum. We arranged with his to pick us up in a few hours so we decided to go the Golden Reef Theme Park next to the museum. It was like a smaller version of the Gold Coast theme parks with ferris wheels, rollercoasters and a zoo.

The Apartheid Museum, opened in 2001, is a complex dedicated to illustrating apartheid during the previous century. One cannot underestimate the effect apartheid had on this history of the country and the aftereffects are still evident in everyday life. It was a stunning visual journey depicting the way of life before 1990.

That night was the pre-departure meeting at the hostel. We met with most people who were going on the tour. Peter, the tour leader; Ivan, the cook; Muno, the driver; Linda, Therese, Marylane, from the Netherlands – Linda and Therese had been travelling through Ghana together for six month prior; Alison, a pharmacist from Canada; Rodney, a bus driver from Coffs Harbour; Iker and Ixus, honeymooners from the Basque Country in Spain; Lee, Patrick, John, three Australian guys who were living in London, they had just done the garden route. Later we would be joined by Susan and Macca from the Northern Territory.

Because Susan and Macca were delayed and we did not know where they were, our departure was delayed somewhat. Once we left Jo’Burg we drove through various shantytowns on our way to the Kruger National Park. Peter reiterated that not even him; a big built Zimbabwean would not venture into Johannesburg centre alone. We were told that Durban and Johannesburg would soon merge into one megalopolis and that the shanty towns would probably never go. The government has tried to assist on numerous occasions but the people thrive on crime and are able slip through the cracks.

Its about a four hour drive to the Kruger National Park – we pass through different communities. One of particular interest was White River – it looked like the epitome of what us foreigners expect Africa to be like.

Kruger National Park is one of the largest game reserves in Africa. Home to all the Big Five (Leopard, Lion, Elephant, Rhino and Buffalo) – it covers almost 19,000 square kilometres. The national park alone is bigger than the whole country of Fiji.

We stayed in 5 star tents just outside the Numbi Gate. The first night we went 4×4 jeep safari. The main aim of the safari, in my opinion is to spoke the Big Five – which were the 5 most, sought after animals by poachers. It is also pretty cool to see other animals like giraffes, zebra, hippo and crocodiles. That first night we spotted Rhino, Buffalo and Elephant and right towards the end of the drive – a pack of lions. The next day the safari took place in the truck and we still missed the elusive leopard.

Corruption is rife in South Africa, as we found out in a small town called Hazyview. We went there to withdraw some money where some people of the tour were scammed at the ATM. The trick for someone to ‘help’ the foreigner withdraw money by asking their PIN to assist. Meanwhile their card is being copied and they can withdraw funds.

The tour made its way through the Blyde River Canyon. The Blyde River Canyon is located in the Mpulamanga region and is the world’s third largest canyon and has an abundance of green foliage. There are potholes, outlooks and ledges. Perhaps the most famous of which is Gods Window, a stunning outlook a short hike up the mountain.

That afternoon we set up camp and a few us went for a hike to see some waterfalls – the water was cold, but I followed instinct and jumped in. Iker and Ixus taught us all some campfire games that night. Interesting to note that I didn’t bring sufficient warm clothing/blankets and didn’t imagine that Africa would be cold. This night was the coldest most uncomfortable night I have ever slept and needless to say I went to buy some warm materials soon after.

In Africa people get paid on the 25^th day of the month and the tour made its way to the town of Polokwane the first Saturday after the 25^th. Here it seemed that everyone in town was out spending their money. The KFC was full and the PicknPay was crowded more than any other store I had ever seen. It wasn’t a big day so we ended the last night in South Africa eating Maize around camp.

So the tour ended its part in South Africa. There are not many other countries in the world where your experiences can go from two opposite sides of the spectrum. Almost getting robbed, taxi strikes and shantytowns vs spectacular scenery, wildlife and people. South Africas charm will continue to draw in a range of different tourists for years to come.

Getting upgraded on a flight is one of the goals of all travellers. Due to flight cancellations, my flight got re-routed and I had to catch a flight from Bangkok to Thailand on Thai Airlines. This flight let me achieve the ultimate – a free upgrade.

I didn’t notice it was an upgrade till half through the flight when I peered through the curtain and saw economy class, with their plastic cutlery, three seats in a row and alcohol rations. Too bad this wasn’t the worlds longest flight.

Now once we landed in Hong Kong, we had 7 hours to kill – not knowing much about the place prior, we looked at a train which took you through the city – the logistics of the city however made this option unavailable. We got out the airport, a bit of mission, and saw there was an expo on in a convention centre about a fifteen minute walk away. The convention centre proved quite boring so we made our way back to the airport. All the stores were closing, and we were starving and thirsty so bought water. It was some sort of replenishment water so I didn’t drink it and remained parched.

We went to check in, the first in line, however due to some mess up, we were not confirmed and had to be placed on stand by. We waited nervously until about two hours later we were told we would be on the plane.

Hong Kong airport is probably bigger than some small countries. I still think there is a lot more to Hong Kong, and to China than this airport – due to my definition on countries being UN recognised I do count this as a visit –eventful at that – but likely to back again.

[THAILAND 21MAR09-22MAR09] 

 Alas, I was back in Thailand, one of the worlds great areas to travel and one of my favorite places to be. I embarked on my first multi destinational trip and had to stopover in Bangkok due to a Thai Airways cancelled flight. Now the first time I was in Bangkok I did not enjoy it as much as I could have. A big culture shock, a bit tired from Chaing Mai and a guess a little home sick. I didn’t really want to stop in Bangkok overnight but as is always the case in the developing world, you can’t be in too much of a rush because you will inevitably have something go very wrong and keep you grounded for a few days. Southeast Asia is certainly no exception but there are far worse places to be stuck, no matter where you are and especially Bangkok, Thailand.

As Lonely Planet eloquently puts it, “Bangkok is the cockiest city around”. This is perhaps true and it is also one of the worlds most exciting cities. Anything can and will happen and as the classic Murray Head 1980’s hit “One Night in Bangkok” says:
One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster, the bars are temples but the pearls ain’t free
You’ll find a God in every golden cloister, and if you’re lucky then the God’s a she.
I can feel an angel sliding up to me.

One night in Bangkok makes the hard man humble, not much between despair and ecstasy.
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble, can’t be too careful with your company.
I can feel the devil walking next to me.

I stayed for one night in Bangkok, free of charge, at the five star airport hotel – Novotel Sukhumvit. We never got to the famous Patpong district the first time we were in Bangkok – for a variety of reasons, one of which was being overwhelmed by the sheer size of the city, the second of which was alterior motives of the cab drivers.

Patpong Road is quintessential Bangkok. Whether it be a designer suit, fake ID, any type of clothes, jewelry, massage (legit), lady friends or lady boys, tuk tuk’s, etc., you will certainly be offered by tons of hawkers and enterprising Thai’s trying to pry away your Baht. We first wanted a bite to eat in McDonald’s and had 4 lady boys sitting next to us – preparing for a big Saturday night – casually going about there business. I went to some stalls and had a look with the cries of “please sir, first customer” – I bought some sandals for Africa and some underpants. Then we realised all the bars on the side were full of dancers, trying to make some money with ping pong balls.

By the end of the night I had seen thousands of prostitutes, lots of tourists coming back again and again, male prostitutes coming onto us, illegal DVD’s, an abundance of food and bright lights and neon signs. We went back to the hotel and got ready for our flight to Hong Kong the next day – I don\’t know why but having such a 180 turn around about my feelings of Bangkok have put me in good stead for the holiday.

People say to me it is one of those places you just want to go back to again and again. I am fairly sure it will be on my travel list once again.