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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008

Day 221

So, what can I write about this day? Basically we had breakfast, climbed into the “Easy Rider Wine Tour” bus with 5 others, drove around to 4 wineries and get drunk. Really that would be the easy entry to write and not much else happened in between, well not that I remember. So here goes, a blurry view of our day of wine tasting.

A disclaimer: The following blog may have been tainted by several glasses of wine and other forms of alcohol.

Gabriel, our guide and all around interesting guy drove us off to the first winery in the region. Simon Sig, I think that was the name. Once there our guide led us through the wine processing plant for about 45 minutes. Some might cutting about 45 minutes into our drinking time. We emerged from the wine cellar into the brilliant sunshine and took a seat on the beautiful patio. Finally some tastings. Sparkling wine to start, then a selection of 4 other of our choice. I think I had 2 whites and 2 reds. Generally speaking white wine isn’t as good as red in South Africa. The Pinotage was decent, which is a South African grape variety that they came up with. Overall the wine was good and Gabriel gave us a good talk on how to taste wine. All very laid back and unpretentious, actually Gabriel was about the most unpretentious guy you could meet. A bit odd and a dry sense of humour but then again this guy once worked as a street busker in Greece. I did not just make that up.

On to the second winery, Fairview. This was a great place, they also make some great cheese. We have some of their wine at home in Canada, you may have seen their “Goats do Roam” brand. Again, I did not just make that up. Here we were able to try 6 choices. The best part was getting a tasting, actually a full glass and walking over to sample the cheeses. Does it get any better than this? Yeah actually it did get better, hold on. The girl who was pouring our tastings was quite generous so it broke the ice between the group. We walked out with one of the most expensive bottles of red. A chakalaka, again not made up. It was great and cost a whopping 110 Rand or $11!

Next stop was lunch, a full meal that was included with the tour. Oh and it also included a glass of wine. Some of the light weights in the tour didn’t even finish their wine. Jordana and I had a fish they call salmon here. Its not salmon, nothing like it but it was tasty and the setting was fantastic. It was getting a bit blurry but the countryside here is gorgeous. Tall mountains with vineyards as far as eye can see. Lunch was done and it was on to the next stop.
Dieu Donner, a french name for a winery in South Africa. Apparently the french came through here sharing their wine making talents. I honestly can’t remember whether this wine was good. I think it was OK. The winery had a fabulous view and a artificial waterfall leading to a large restaurant. I do remember a rose here, it wasn’t so good. The wine definitely was not god’s gift.

For our last stop it was the most stunning of all the wineries, Tokara. Maybe the most beautiful one I’ve ever seen. The building has one architectural awards and the views over the valley were spectacular, leading all the way to table mountain. To the wine, we had 5 choices and by this point most people were definitely feeling it. I’m sure some didn’t even get through all 5 tastings. I do remember the wine here was good and after my 5th tasting myself and my new British friends, Vik and Andy had to try the brandy. We had to pay for the privilege, 5 Rand. It was tasty stuff and a good way to finish the day of tastings.

Oh wait, the wine tastings were done but the other tastings were just about to begin. Back at the hostel Jordana and I had our cheese and bread that we purchased from Fairview. After that Vik, Andy and myself went for a quick swim before changing and heading out for a pint. Being a university town there is a good selection of pubs. We settled at Bohemia, where the pints of Castle Lager were 12 Rand. That’s $1.50 CAD, pretty much 5 times less than a pint in Toronto. Or recipe for a messy night. The one pint turned into 4 or 5 and after a quick pizza we started to walk back to the hostel. On the way we passed a bar that looked lively so we strolled in for a look. This place was the stereotypical university bar. Bad music, very drunk students and a dance floor. Why is it that dance floors in bard like this are always wet? Do that many people spill their drinks? Maybe I just don’t want to know. Anyway we had a few more drinks while some of us hit the dance floor and some of us watched Manchester United and Celtic on tv. It was a good night. A good day on the whole, well from what I can remember.

A Helldrick of a Train Trip

Tuesday, November 4th, 2008

Day 220

We had gotten so comfortable at the B & B and loved Cape Town so much part of me was sad to leave. Although the desire to explore more of this country and continent quickly had me wanting to finish breakfast and get on our train out of town.

Our taxi dropped us of at the busy train station that was filled with commuters at 9am Tuesday morning. We found platform 9 and waited for our train to arrive. We were headed into the wine country to a town named Stellenbosch. “Let’s take this one”. I pointed to the closest carriage to us. “No, here this one is fine”. Jordana decided the next carriage was better. Fine, no problem. The train pulled in and we took our seats in the fairly empty carriage. As we began to pull out I heard a guy yelling at the front of the train. I couldn’t see him but definitely could hear him. “Maybe he works for the train”. Jordana said optimistically. “Don’t think so, thanks for picking the crazy guy train”. He was screaming announcing each stop and making it clear there is no smoking permitted on the trains. I thought he was drunk or high. Then he came over to us and sat down.

Jordana was buried in her book and tried to ignore him so I had the pleasure of conversation. “Mister! Do you know there are 88 wheels on the train? Yes, 11 carriages, 8 wheels each!” OK, great. “Do you want to see my drawings?” How could I refuse as he pulled out a notebook from his bag. It was then I realized this guy was harmless, actually I think he was autistic. Helldrick had drawings on every page of trains, lorries (trucks) and cars. Each one contained a 10 digit phone number that he’d seen on the side. His memory was incredible. He would rhyme off every stop, we are talking 20 stops here. All in exact order they would come up. All the station workers and police aboard knew him. I figured he does this all the time and I thought they train might as well hire him on. He called Jordana sweetie and myself mister. When we came to a large factory or a yard filled with old cars he excitely would jump up. “Sweetie, mister!” He yelled as he poked us for our attention. “Look look, all de old cars out there”. Mostly he settled in and spoke to me, Jordana hid behind her book.

Finally we pulled into Stellenbosch and I almost expected Helldrick to follow us to our hostel. It was also his stop. Instead he popped up, shook my hand and gave Jordana a kiss on the cheek. “Goodluck and travel safe!” With that he was off. It certainly made the hour and half trip more interesting. We found our hostel, The Stumble Inn. A nice place with a swimming pool. We booked our wine tour for the morning and were off to check out the town.

Stellenbosch is a university town, home to one of the most prestigious universities in South Africa. Its also a conservative place and one of the places where apartheid was born. The students do give the very polished town a lively feel. We walked around the beautiful whitewashed buildings on what turned out to be a beautifully warm day. After a good thai dinner we went to sleep resting up for the day of wine tasting to come.

Drinks, Drinks and more Drinks

Thursday, September 25th, 2008
Day 181 Mendoza is a lively city with wide tree lined avenues and some good restaurants. Sometimes it feels like you could be in Europe. That said the only real reason one visits Mendoza is for the wine grown ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tattered Beauty

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008
Day 179 Valparaiso was one of those cities which grew on you.  Personally I loved it the moment I walked out the door of our hostel, Luna Sunrisa.  I turned to the right and through the thick fog I could make ... [Continue reading this entry]