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Riding the Beaver

Tuesday, October 7th, 2008

Day 193

One of the joys of travel is the people you meet along the way. Some crazy, like Brian in Santiago and others like Sheamus and Natasha, whom it feels like we’ve been friends with for years. Since the weather outside was more suited to winter activities we decided the four of us should go skiing and snowboarding instead of hiking. Sounds like a good idea except other than myself nobody had actually been down a hill on either skis or a snowboard before. Oh and I haven’t skied in over 10 years. We all agreed it would either be a blast or we’d be sharing another 4 bed room, this time at the hospital.

The girls decided they wanted to try snowboarding and us men would strap on skis. We rented all our gear in town at waited for the 10am transfer to Cerro Castor or Beaver Mountain. A mountain located 25km outside of town. We also made quick friends with Juan, a funny and friendly Argentine from Buenos Aires who was down for the week to snowboard. He’d give the girls some tips and us boys would just figure it out or get drunk in the bar.

We arrived at the slopes, paid our ridiculously low lift pass of 40 pesos or $13 CAD and made our way to the lift. Half way up the mountain we stopped at the beginners area. Juan was really helpful with the girls and not before long they both managed to board down the small slope without falling. Well mostly without falling, without major incident at least. For his first time on skis and with no lessons Sheamus made progress as well. As for myself I was feeling a bit more comfortable and was going to leave the group to hit some bigger runs. The conditions were excellent, a good base, some powder overnight and no wind. I was actually warming up quite a bit.

“Juan, you want to head down and put our jackets in the locker?” It was to warm out for all the layers I had on. “Sure, let’s go”. Juan replied, as we turned off on a trail next to the chair lift. Juan knows I haven’t skied much and haven’t done it for years, he’s been boarding for 8 years and is quite good. So as I skied past the name of the run and noticed it was a black run I wondered where the hell he was taking me? “That must be another run, I can handle this, this is no problem” I thought to myself as we followed a gently sloping trail through the beautiful woods. I enjoyed the wild mountain scenery in the distance. “OH shit, this is a black run!” Juan yelled as he flew by me. I didn’t have much time to react as the trail turned left and suddenly plunged down. I pictured myself tumbling down the mountain with poles and skis flying all about. Was skiing included in our insurance? I was absolutely flying, I tried to keep my speed down making wide turns and so far so good. At one point I thought I was going to lose it but recovered and before I knew it I was at the bottom. I calmly came to a stop, in that sort of, “Yeah, that was nothing”. It was such a rush, and such a great start to the day. The run hadn’t been skied by anyone else that day, freshly groomed the snow was perfect. “Wow, sorry man I didn’t know that was a black run”. Juan said with a laugh as I met him at the bottom. I wondered if he really didn’t know? Sneaky Argentinians!

I met the others back at the top, I was surprised of Jordanas progress. She was doing pretty damn good for a beginner. so was everyone for that matter. I left them to go ski on my own and Juan headed to some more challenging spots. We saw each other on different runs throughout the day and met up again for lunch. The 4 of us enjoyed a much deserved beer on a patio as we watched people come down the mountain. As the day neared to a close I encourage Jordana, Natasha and Sheamus to try the longer, slightly steeper beginner hill. Jordana and Natasha did great getting down with relative ease. I was proud of Jordana, she usually shys away from a challenge but she was determined to do well today. Sheamus? Well he was determined but says he’s the first man to ski halfway down then walk up a hill. The real fun was watching Jordana and Natasha try to get on the bar back up the hill with their boards. If you don’t know this is a difficult thing to do. I swear they each tried 10 times, always falling back down in fits of laughter. It was like a comedy sketch and a good one at that.

Finally the day came to a close and we all agreed it was one of the most enjoyable things we’d done yet. Yet another claim as well, we skied in the most southerly ski slopes in the world. Then again pretty much anything you do down here can have that claim. Back at the hostel we cooked dinner and shared some much deserved 1 litre bottles Quillmes beer. The hostel bar/lounge is a perfect place to chillout in the evening with travellers from all over the world. Skiing in Ushuaia was as unexpected as the amount of snow we’ve seen here but we’ve certainly enjoyed it so far.

South to Patagonia

Friday, September 26th, 2008

Day 182

We had one more day in Mendoza, which is a pleasant city but without much to offer a tourist in the way of sights. We were on the move south to Bariloche but our bus was not to depart till 8pm tonight. Jordana was having trouble with her infamous sensitive stomach and I was still trying to get over my cold or allergies, not sure what it is really. So as much as we wanted to at least check out a museum or something we both weren´t in the mood.

After a lazy morning at the hotel we had to check out. We finished off our included breakfast of coffee and media lunas (very sweet croissants) and headed out into the city. We did our usual lazy day in a Latin American city, which consists of walking from park to park and then from square to square. Mendoza has plenty of both so it was the relaxing day we hoped for. Not much else to write about our day. We had some fabulous food at an all vegetarian restaurant. Then parked ourselves for an hour or so on a cafe patio as we people watched. The mullet is a very popular cut amongst both female and male Argentines.

Eventually the time came to head back to the Mendoza bus a terminal. We boarded our bus for the 18 hour a trip south to Bariloche. The bus was OK, seats were good but the washroom was old and not exactly the cleanest. A rare thing in Argentina,the buses are usually great. Nonetheless it was quite a ride. Just south of San Rafael around 11pm we saw some very impressive non stop lightning in the distance, lightning like I have never seen in my life. The lightning lit up the entire sky and with complete darkness in all directions the silhouette of the Andes in the distance was a beautiful sight. Eventually we reached the storm and the rain and wind was enough to wake me from a decent sleep. Jordana, she´ll sleep though anything.

As the sun rose we had reached the northern fringes of Patagonia, a land that I always dreamed of visiting. With clear blue rushing rivers and craggy snow capped mountains Patagonia was already impressing.

Finally at 2pm we reached the lakeside city of Bariloche, a beautifully set town on Lago Nahuel Huapi surrounded with mountains covered in snow.  Just outside of town are a few large ski resorts, in town the snow has just melted and the trees are filled with blossoms.  We settled in at a very the comfortable Hostel Achanay and looked forward to exploring the region over the next few days.

Argentina…Again

Wednesday, September 24th, 2008
Day 180 Finally the time had come to move on from Valparaiso. A place it would be very easy to get comfortable in for a few weeks or months. Maybe another time though, the pull of visiting a new ... [Continue reading this entry]