Tales From the Chicken Bus

Day 109

Finally the day we were going to see a football match in Latin America was here. We had been talking about going to see a match before we even left home. I figured somewhere in Mexico would be easy, but it just never worked out. Then throughout central America it was the same story. Finally here in Colombia we are in a city for a match, but not just any match. Seems after missing games all over Latin America we are lucky enough to be in Medellin for Atletico v.s. Independiente Medellin. The biggest rivalry in Colombian football.

We started the day off yet again at on the same cafe patio with coffee and cheese pastry. The girl who works here now recognises us and greets us as if we have live here for years. I almost feel like I’m back on Bloor West in Toronto walking into our neighbourhood cafe, coffee tree. After breakfast we hopped on the metro and rode down to the stadium to see about tickets. It was only 11am but already the grounds were buzzing with action. People with jerseys, vendors setting up and security. Lots of security. The police were setting up a barrier around the stadium and searching anyone who went through. Jordana got through without a search, I received a quick pat down and a peak in my bag and then was sent on our way. We approach the ticket booth and soon enough had 2 tickets in the west end of stadium for the 8pm match.

I decided to adopt Independiente as my club for the match. There were a few reasons, here they are…They wore red, just like Toronto FC. Walking around the city this morning all I saw were the green jerseys of Atletico, they were by far the more popular club. As a matter of fact they are the biggest club in Colombia, I have to support the underdog. Lastly, Independiente is the team of the working class, yet another reason that I knew who I had to support in this match.
We relaxed the rest of the day, checking out a few cafes and yet some more striking and modern parks and buildings. One such park is named “Barefoot Park”. It contains a beautiful modern library on one side and a planetarium on the other. In between the two are unique water fountains for kids to splash around in. There is also a sandy beach area with lounge chairs for sun tanning. Surrounding this are cafes and restarutrants. We hung around for a while then jumped back on the metro for an early dinner and to get ready for the match. I didn’t want to bring our camera in so we stopped of to pickup a disposable one.

Just before 6pm we walked back to the metro. I almost felt like I was back home walking to the TTC, riding the train to BMO Field to catch a TFC match. As soon as we reached the stadium stop the similarities ended. Sure people were wearing jerseys, mostly green Atletico colours, and some carried banners and flags. This was all familiar, what wasn’t was the massive security presence. “Look at that line! I think we all have to get searched first.” I commented to Jordana as we saw a huge line that snaked in and out. “You have got to be joking”, she replied. Sure enough that is exactly what it was. The police had setup that barrier from this morning, a few hundred meters from the stadium and it circled right around. Nobody was allowed past unless they had a ticket and then was searched. So we lined up and moved slowly. About 20 minutes later there was a mass stampede to the left of us. The police had opened a new barrier. Thousands rushed over, we sort of walked cautiously, It was mayhem. We figured we should just stay where we were and we would get in soon enough. Although both of us just wanted in that stadium. We could already hear and see the Atletico supporters in the south end. Some were hanging over the stadiums edge burning Independiente colours as smoke filled the air. Just then we both turned to see the riot police show up on horses to try and keep order in the lines. I laughed to myself thinking how this is a bit different than an MLS match. Finally after over one hour of waiting we were at the front of the line. Jordana went first and she barely got searched, they don’t really search the ladies much. My turn, I get a very extensive pat down, a bit to close actually. Whoa, a bit close in between the legs! All I have on me is the disposable camera and my money belt tucked under my pant, everythings seems cool until the cop grabs my belt. No belts! Uh oh, this is my only belt and these jeans are too big already. I’m going to look like a hip hop star if they take this belt. I yell over to Jordana that I think they are going to take my belt. I wanted to make sure he knew I was english and a tourist. Not sure if it worked but as he held my buckle and showed his superior officer they both just motioned for me to go. Thank god, nobody wanted to see my stripped boxers. After 2 more searches we are finally in the stadium.

We walk up to our level and search for our seats. Eventually we are told the section is general admission, luckily we find a decent spot near top of the goal. Immediately we are both blown away by the passion of each end. Independiente supporters are nearest to us, although behind a big barbed wire fence. To our right at the south end are the Atletico supporters. A full 30 minutes before kick off and this is already the loudest, craziest sporting event I have ever seen. It clear that Atletico is the bigger team as there supporters have banners, streamers, signs and a large section of drums. Independiente supporters have none of that but they make up for it with non-stop chanting and jumping. The atmosphere is incredible. I comment to Jordana, “if I didn’t even see the game and left right now I would be impressed”. Yes, it was that good.

The match finally begins and both sides look nervous as the play is fast but sloppy. The great skill of Colombian football is shown by many players but also the infamous diving and plain dirty tactics from some as well. Atletico carries the play for much of the half but no score. Corner kicks are a real adventure. When one Atletico player lined up for one in front of us 7 riot police with shields came over to offer him protection. Drinks, food and even stones all rained down and deflected off the shields. For the entire 45 minutes both supporters constantly go back and forth with songs and chants. Several times the whole stadium shakes as people jump in unison. So far its been a great and different experience. The food for one thing isn’t what we are used to back home. Mangos, churros, chiccharon (fried pork skin) is all available. To drink, definitely no beer in sight. Soft drinks and tinto (small shots of weak coffee). In our section we sort of have seats. Plastic wedges that are shaped to fit your butt stuck on a concrete step. In the ends and upper section there are no seats but only concrete steps. Everyone stands in the ends but surprisingly to Jordana and I most people sit in the rest of the stadium. Oh and I have never heard so many people being called a whore in Spanish before. Players, refs and even the trainer.

As the second half began Independiente began to take over play, it was evident they were the better club. As a matter of fact they top the Colombian league and have not lost yet this season. Atletico on the other hand has struggled this year near the bottom of the table. The second half carried on but we had no idea how much time had been played, there is no time clock in the stadium. Each side had a few close chances but still no score. Around the 60th minute an Atletico player was issued a red card on a particularly dirty tackle from behind. Finally in the 80th minute, down one man Atletico intercepted a pass and with a beautifully powerful kick to the top left corner took a 1-0 lead. The stadium went completely bonkers. In the Atletico end the supporters all rushed forward in a mass avalanche of bodies. Then the all ran back up and did it again, quite a sight seeing a few thousand people rushing forward so fast.

After that goal Independiente had a few more chances but couldn’t mount a comeback. The Atletico supporters around the stadium sung a greatly passionate song for the last 10 minutes of the match. As the final whistle went we figured we should hang around since the metro would be packed. We stuck a “Red Patch Boys” sticker on my seat and took a few last pictures of the field. We exited the stadium and jumped on the metro. We didn’t see any fights or problems after the match, although there was just about as many police as people in the stations. We later learned that we may have gotten lucky as there were some issues after the match with opposing supporters but nothing major. It had been quite an experience, one of the few things that has exceeded my expectations on the trip.

We got back to El Poblado and both agreed this was one of the most enjoyable and memorable things we have done. So what do you do after a football match? Go for beers! We found a great bar that played good music and was much more our thing over the glossy and overpriced clubs of El Poblado. It was a great end to a fabulous night. El Classico indeed.

Day 108

We don’t usual stay in dorm rooms, but here in Medellin it was our best and cheapest option. Surprisingly last night was one of my best sleeps in a while. It may have been that I was overly tired from the overnight bus or maybe we have now travelled so long that I can sleep anywhere. Usually I am a very fussy sleeper. If something doesn’t sound right or the temperature is off then normally I just can’t get to sleep. Not anymore though, 8 other strangers sleeping around me in a room? No problem, I’m out as soon as I lie down. 35 degree heat and humidity? No worries, I’ll be asleep soon. Roosters 3am, blaring latin music at 5am, crying children and screaming spanish mothers at 7am? Didn’t hear any of it. So really I don’t think the amount of passport stamps or the collection of exotic souvenirs shows how much you have travelled. Nope, its the ability to sleep through anything, the ability to fall asleep and sleep through the loudest version of Daddy Yankees “Gasoilna”. Incidentally a regaeton favourite of mine. Sleep through that and you must be a well travelled lad.

So after a great sleep and good shower we left the hostel and went right back to the little cafe from yesterday morning. Fantastic coffee and cheese pastries again for breakfast. Sitting on the patio with the sun filtering through the canopy of trees it felt like a beautiful spring day back home. After breakfast we walked 10 minutes to the metro. The metro here in Medellin is not underground but rather above ground trains and then running along raised tracks through the downtown. It follows the river and then branches out with a few different lines, from the map it seems to cover a vast part of the city. They use tickets here which can only be bought at a booth and often they don’t work in the turnstiles. Other than that I was impressed, the platforms were spotless, the trains large and clean. We were whisked away and in under 10 minutes we were in the centre of Medellin.

We exited at a large square in front of a strikingly modern building, a new library. On the near side was a pedestrian street with some older building. The square however was all modern. Hundreds of small towers were spread throughout the square. At night they will light up. In front of the library are benches surrounded by bamboo giving shade in the otherwise open square. We sat there for a while moving to different spots around the square people watching. I commented how in Toronto we haven’t had any new public space of this scale built in a long time. We continued are tour walking the long pedestrian street that stretched across much of the centre of the city. There were some interesting colonial buildings but where Medellin impressed most was the fantastic modern architecture and beautiful new public spaces.

Back on the metro we rode out to cable car connection. Since the city is built in a steep valley and much of it has spread up the steep mountainsides, it would be very tough to extend the metro up the mountains. So a cable car was built that connects with the metro. 4 stops right up to the top of the mountain. This was great, riding the elevated train and now the cable car was an attraction in itself. We lined up and soon were riding with 4 others high above the neighbourhood to the first station. This cable car was such a great transportation idea, one of the best parts was that it connected a working class neighbourhood with the main metro line. People who will actually use public transport and most likely don’t even own a car. At the last stop we exited to find an incredible public library. A very modern looking black square of a building, hanging off the mountainside. It was quite a sight and a great contrast from the modest red brick dwellings it hovered over. As we walked back to the station we noticed that everywhere the metro or cable car has been built it has improved the look of the neighbourhood it passes through. For example under and all around the cable car stations are beautifully landscaped parks, walkways and childrens playgrounds. The more of Medellin we saw the more we enjoyed just being in the city.

For dinner we looked for a place back in El Poblado. Most of the restaurants around here are trendy, expensive affairs and being vegetarian made it that much harder. After some looking we settled on a middle eastern place and had a pretty good plate of falafel, hummus and veggies. We ate outside and the people watching couldn’t get much better. Our other observation that night of Medellin was the amount of silicon. People have said Colombia has the most beautiful woman in the world and Medellin the most beautiful in the country. Not so sure if that’s true but after tonight we both agree that it may be the plastic surgery capital of South America. Either way Medellin the city is proving to be quite beautiful and modern. Its hard to believe that not so long ago this was one of the most dangerous cities in the world. So far the transformation we have seen has been incredible.

Day 107 We arrived in Medellin at 9am at the large northern bus station. Since we have a lack of guidebook information I gave the tourist desk a go. Usually these desks have zero information and could careless about ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day 106 Cartagena has been an excellent introduction to Colombia. An easy introduction, a beautiful, romantic, walled city set on the Caribbean with fresh night breezes blowing while we sip beer and gaze upon stunning colonial architecture. However its ... [Continue reading this entry]