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A Helldrick of a Train Trip

Tuesday, November 4th, 2008

Day 220

We had gotten so comfortable at the B & B and loved Cape Town so much part of me was sad to leave. Although the desire to explore more of this country and continent quickly had me wanting to finish breakfast and get on our train out of town.

Our taxi dropped us of at the busy train station that was filled with commuters at 9am Tuesday morning. We found platform 9 and waited for our train to arrive. We were headed into the wine country to a town named Stellenbosch. “Let’s take this one”. I pointed to the closest carriage to us. “No, here this one is fine”. Jordana decided the next carriage was better. Fine, no problem. The train pulled in and we took our seats in the fairly empty carriage. As we began to pull out I heard a guy yelling at the front of the train. I couldn’t see him but definitely could hear him. “Maybe he works for the train”. Jordana said optimistically. “Don’t think so, thanks for picking the crazy guy train”. He was screaming announcing each stop and making it clear there is no smoking permitted on the trains. I thought he was drunk or high. Then he came over to us and sat down.

Jordana was buried in her book and tried to ignore him so I had the pleasure of conversation. “Mister! Do you know there are 88 wheels on the train? Yes, 11 carriages, 8 wheels each!” OK, great. “Do you want to see my drawings?” How could I refuse as he pulled out a notebook from his bag. It was then I realized this guy was harmless, actually I think he was autistic. Helldrick had drawings on every page of trains, lorries (trucks) and cars. Each one contained a 10 digit phone number that he’d seen on the side. His memory was incredible. He would rhyme off every stop, we are talking 20 stops here. All in exact order they would come up. All the station workers and police aboard knew him. I figured he does this all the time and I thought they train might as well hire him on. He called Jordana sweetie and myself mister. When we came to a large factory or a yard filled with old cars he excitely would jump up. “Sweetie, mister!” He yelled as he poked us for our attention. “Look look, all de old cars out there”. Mostly he settled in and spoke to me, Jordana hid behind her book.

Finally we pulled into Stellenbosch and I almost expected Helldrick to follow us to our hostel. It was also his stop. Instead he popped up, shook my hand and gave Jordana a kiss on the cheek. “Goodluck and travel safe!” With that he was off. It certainly made the hour and half trip more interesting. We found our hostel, The Stumble Inn. A nice place with a swimming pool. We booked our wine tour for the morning and were off to check out the town.

Stellenbosch is a university town, home to one of the most prestigious universities in South Africa. Its also a conservative place and one of the places where apartheid was born. The students do give the very polished town a lively feel. We walked around the beautiful whitewashed buildings on what turned out to be a beautifully warm day. After a good thai dinner we went to sleep resting up for the day of wine tasting to come.

Setting the Table

Monday, November 3rd, 2008

Day 219

“Its good enough, were going!” I said as we peaked up at the mostly cloudy sky around table mountain. It was our last day and I was determined to get to the top of table mountain.

We walked to a taxi stand and hopped in for the ride to the lower cablecar station. “Looks cloudy, you should go tomorrow it’ll be clear then”. The driver said as we began to drive toward the station. “We are leaving tomorrow, besides we have tried 3 times already so its know or never”. I responded. Why were people always telling us the weather wasn’t good enough? The weather in Cape Town is hardly ever clear and if it is then usually it’ll be cloudy soon enough. We reached the station and joined the queue for tickets. Soon enough we were on the large cable car to the top.

This isn’t any ordinary cable car. It fits 65 people, is round and has a revolving floor so everyone can get a good view. At the top is was much cooler, we were over 1000 meters higher than Cape Town below us. The view? Incredible! The city lay below us sandwiched in by signal hill to the left and the ocean straight ahead. It was perfect timing as the sun came shining down on the city below. We walked along the trails at the top of the mountain stopping to observe the beautiful views. We even spotted a view dussies. A small animal that looks kinda like a groundhog. Although believe it or their closest dna relation is an Elephant. I have no idea how.

We followed the trails till we looped back near the cablecar station. Here we were on the ocenside and below us was a small seaside suburb and the crashing waves. This was our favourite view from the top. In the distance were several other peaks that followed the rugged coastline. After a few hours up here we even tired of the beautiful views and it was quite chilly so back down it was to the much warmer city centre.

The rest of our day was spent doing basic things that a city of this size is good for. We easily backed up our photos on cd and spent sometime researching other places in Africa. We stopped by a pharmacy and picked up over 200 pills of doxycycline, an anti-malarial tablet that we will need further north. We paid $45 CAD dollars for 208 pills without a prescription. At home you would have to visit a travel doctor. Pay them a “consultaion fee” of $45 each person just to get a prescription. Then the doxy would be well over $300 for this many pills. Anyway we were set and safe for our future destination at a good cost. On the way back to the guesthouse we picked up our laundry that was now clean and fresh. It feels so good when a day goes so smoothly when you are travelling. We even had time to stop off at the train station to find out what time our train left in the morning to Stellenbosch. We even bought the ticket. Perfect.

We finished our last night in Cape Town with a terrific meal at Royale. We had great vegetarian burgers that you have to see to believe. We lucked out since their busy first level was full they were able to fit us in upstairs in the reservations only area. It was a quiet and even romantic meal for our last night in Cape Town.

Holocaust in Cape Town

Sunday, November 2nd, 2008
Day 218 We've gotten quite comfortable here in Cape Town at St. Pauls B & B, so much that we decided to spend an extra night. Originally we planned on leaving tomorrow but I've talked Jordana into staying another day. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Erasing Lives

Saturday, November 1st, 2008
Day 217 Yesterday was an easy introduction to this very european feeling African city. Today we planned on visiting District Six, an area and now museum that would show us that looks aren't everything in Cape Town. We enjoyed another large ... [Continue reading this entry]

On a Holiday

Friday, October 31st, 2008
Day 216 I opened our window and stuck the camera outside for a great shot of table mountain with clear blue skies as far as the eye could see. It was a beautiful day and our first true full day ... [Continue reading this entry]

Into Africa

Thursday, October 30th, 2008

Day 215

We spent our last morning relaxing at the apartment before our flight. We watched some cheesy daytime movies and Jordana made fried rice before the lady came by to pick up the keys for the apartment. We ... [Continue reading this entry]