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Prime Rib and some Ben Stiller on the side

Tuesday, December 18th, 2007

Note: I have finally added a some photos, and hopefully many more to come! Check for the link on the right side of the page. To make it easy here it is… http://picasaweb.google.com/mikejordana/CentralAmerica

Day: 41 to 43
The next 3 days in Antigua was a relaxing time and we enjoyed the international flavour of the city. We frequented cafes and restaurants with names such as the Bagel Barn, Reilly’s and Cafe Flor. Our days consisted of wandering the cobbled streets, finding a small empty park and sitting around water fountains planning our future travels. However despite the large international presence this still is a Guatemalan city at heart, you just have to look around to find it.

This was quite apparent on the western edge of the city along Calzada Santa Lucia. A sprawling market located next to the bus yard we had arrived at. The south end of the market was filled with weavings and carvings, a tourist market. The north end was chaotic, colourful and all local. Narrow rows of wooden stalls with hanger after hanger of second hand clothing probably donated from the U.S.A. and Canada. I almost expected to find some of my old clothes here. Of courde there was the obligatory section of cheap chinese electronics. The most interesting area and what sets a Guatemalan market apart from a flea market back home is the meat and produce section. Recognizable fruit and vegetables like bananas, cucumbers, avocado and chilli peppers. Then there were things we had never seen before. Giant looking papaya like fruit and tiny round orange fruits. Since I’m linguistically challenged I could ask what they are but I wouldn’t understand the reply. So goes my limited, ok pathetic Spanish. Beside the produce area are a few stalls, the meat section. A vegetarians delight, really it is. As someone who does not take part in consuming animals I feel I have made a good decision when I see half a cow covered in flies hanging in a hot dusty market. Although at least here when people buy their meat they know what animal it comes from. Unlike back home where you go into the local grocer and pick up a neatly packaged steak, never seeing the rest of the animal. Not here though, you want a steak? They’ll hack it off the half a cow that’s hanging and next to that is the head of that very cow just in case you wanted to thank him for that steak. Since we are at the beginning of our travels we departed the market and skipped over the tourist souvenirs. I did however pick up a $3 pair of Oakley sunglasses. Ok they are “Jokley’s” but either way they do the job and I couldn’t beat that price.

The market was a good contrast and reminder that we were still in Guatemala. That night we sat down at Cafe 2000. A bar with a huge projection screen that shows english movies nightly to an audience of tourists. This is was what Antigua is all about, a side of hanging beef for sale in the morning and Ben Stiller in “Heartbreak Kid” on the big screen at night.

A Tight Fit

Saturday, December 15th, 2007

Day 40
We awoke in the morning, packed up and before we even had breakfast were in a taxi to the bus station. We were headed only 45km away from Guatemala City but it would feel like we were leaving the country. Antigua, our destination is one of the most beautiful cities in the Americas. Restored colonial buildings, buried power lines, cobbled streets and surrounded by 3 large volcanoes, it certainly wasn’t typical Guatemala.

We boarded a ridiculously colourful old American school bus, a chicken bus. As some of the first passengers on we were lucky and grabbed seats. Pulling through the streets of Guatemala we picked up more and more passengers and people boarded at stops to sell drinks and food. This is a usual occurrence all over the world, however the strange part was when a delivery boy from Dominoes Pizza jumped on selling slices. Good to see the American fast food franchises getting involved in the local economy. About halfway to Antigua the bus was packed, people were mostly 3 to a seat and several stood in the aisle. Jordana and I were getting lucky, still just the two of us. Then it happened. The bus stopped and two girls got on, one was skinny and quickly found a seat. The other was the fattest girl in Central America. “Where is she going to sit?” asked Jordana. “Um she’ll just have to stand, she’s huge.” She looked around unsure what to do. I don’t want to sound mean or like an ass but this girl had rolls on her rolls, you know…more rolls than a bakery. I’m sorry for that, but you need to understand what kind of girth we are speaking of here. I actually felt a bit bad for her, everyone looking at her probably thinking, “Girl! Don’t even think about sitting near me.” Well I’m not sure if my sorry feelings showed on my face but she walked right to our seat and proceeded to wedge herself in. Jordana was trying to keep in the laughter. I was just trying not to be crushed. Why me?

35 minutes later we arrived at Antigua’s bus station, well more like a vast yard/market. The girl rolled off the seat and I felt like someone had freed me. It felt good to be off the bus and walking through the dusty bus yard. We found an OK room at the Yellow House Hostel and set out to explore Antigua.

This truly wasn’t Guatemala anymore. There is a large foreign presence here, due to the fact there are over 75 schools from which you can study spanish. Also tons of expats own businesses here. Don’t get me wrong it is a beautiful city, you can’t walk anywhere without looking up and seeing one of the 3 large volcanoes peering down on you. Its also clean, safe and has some beautifuls parks. Being here was felt like a vacation from our travels, an “easy” break before we returned the so called “real” Guatemala again. As an example of what Antigua is like our first night we had Greek food and then went to an Irish pub. They even had Guinness, but at $7 a can I had to take a pass. As strange as all this was it sure beat been barred up in Guatemala City.