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A Plane? No!

Friday, February 15th, 2008

Day 102

There is not much to write about today, it was a tough day. We had breakfast at the hostel and met an American who is helping his uncle sail boats to Colombia. Really? Sounded promising, until we talked about when the next crossing would be. “Oh, not sure. Maybe next Wednesday, but probably not”. That’s all we got from him and with that we set out to do something I really wanted to avoid. Search for a cheap flight to Cartagena, Colombia. Before we left the hostel we heard some loud bangs. Tear gas cannisters, just around the corner. The riots still continued around the city but not as large as the previous days. We waited in the hostel till all seemed safe and then headed out.

We discovered that a Colombian airline, Aires has the cheapest fares for the trip. The problem was finding their office in the city, travel agents didn’t sell Aires flights. We were walking to one last travel agent to check on prices when Jordana suggested we take a left turn to get there faster. “Hey, there it is!” I shouted out. We had stumbled upon the Aires office. If you have travelled before you will appreciate how rare this sort of thing is.

It all seemed to happen almost to easy and fast. Within 10 minutes our dreams of overlanding were crushed, we had a one-way ticket for Cartagena, Colombia on the 17th. Trying to forget about the flight we now turned our attention to researching Colombia and trying to find a guidebook. All I knew about Colombia was mostly bad, drugs, civil war, crime and of course kidnappings. However we did know that the security situation has dramatically improved. Also we have met a few people along the way who have known someone who has travelled in Colombia, its never actually been the person themselves that has been there but always they would have the same stories of a friend who raved about the country. It had been built up as a mystical place that tourists just don’t go to. We couldn’t wait to finally get there and find out ourselves.

Riot! Riot!

Thursday, February 14th, 2008

Day 101

Jordana and I slept in today till about 10am, enjoying our cool a/c room and taking advantage of the cable tv to find out what was happening in the world courtesy of CNN. Norm and Vikki departed at 6am and we didn’t hear a knock on the door if there was one but we were deep in sleep. On the Spanish CNN I caught a news segment that seemed familiar. Familiar buildings and familiar street names. Yep, that’s Panama City and unless this was old footage a riot was on in the city. It was almost if once we returned our rental car and Norm and Vikki left the real adventure for us had begun again. Once again our luck in Panama continues, although I have never been in a riot before so I guess maybe there was an experience to be had in this?

The riot was construction workers battling police. Apparently 2 days prior the construction union here held a protest over working conditions. With the huge building boom in Panama workers rights have seem to been put on the back burner in favour of quick development. So what happen was during this protest Police shot and killed 2 protesters. This obviously pissed off the workers and they have now started this riot. The main area of trouble was about 20 minute walk from us so it seemed safe to at least walk to our new accommodation. We walked out had breakfast and then walked 10 minutes to the hostel, so far so good. I couldn’t say the same for our room. It was so small all that it had was a bunk bed, you couldn’t fit anything else in the room. No windows and the so called a/c was really just a hole in the wall with a fan wedged in it that sucked the a/c cooled air from the dorm room next to us. Well at least it was cheap.

The big plus of the Voyager hostel was the neighbourhood it was in. The main street Via Argentina was lined with great bars, restaurants and a beautiful park. The street was also covered by huge trees offering plenty of shade, a rare thing in Panama City. We found a cool cafe and stopped in for coffee and the biggest maybe best chocolate chip cookie I have ever had. Decisions, tough ones had to be made. Sailings to Colombia just weren’t happening and of the rare ones we had heard about it sounded like hell. Huge swells and sick passengers and of course the 2 boats we were told capsized. It was one thing if the sea was a bit rough but even if we could find a boat it just didn’t sound safe. So in case you are wondering why we are so intent on taking a boat I will explain.

The Panamerican Highway isn’t really one highway but a series of them. From Alaska through Canada, the U.S.A., Mexico, Central America, South America and then ending at the tip of Argentina. Several roads combine to form the Panamerican, over 33,000km of road. That road is unbroken except for a few hundred kilometres between Panama and Colombia, the Darien Gap. The Darien Gap is a large area of primary rain forest, thick impenetrable jungle, mountains, heat and worse of all drug runners and FARC guerrillas. Not to mention the other right-wing paramilitaries in Colombia. So this is where the Panamerican ends, only to restart again in Colombia. Some tourists have tried to cross on foot and most who have attempted it have been kidnapped or just never heard from again. Every time we mention to someone that we plan on going to Colombia from Panama they always say, “but surely not through the Darien?!” So now you know why the boat to Cartagena, Colombia is such a big deal for us. My dream, our trip of overlanding to the tip of South America is in doubt all because of rough seas. Over coffee we decided to wait one more day before looking at flights to Cartagena, Colombia.

That evening after dinner we stopped by the park near the hostel. A band had setup under a small band shell and about 100 people gathered around on blankets with candles. It was a beautiful scene and quite different from the usual Panama City nightlife scene of huge, overpriced clubs. The band was pretty good as well. It felt like a warm summer night at home sitting in a city park, I think it made us both miss home a bit. I fell asleep that night hoping somehow we would find a way to Colombia without flying, when would we ever get the chance to overland from Toronto to the tip of South America again? I always hate when people say it but it may have been true this time, this really did seem like a once in a lifetime chance.

Farewell, Till We Meet Again

Wednesday, February 13th, 2008
Day 100 We were up and had the car packed up by 9am today after a quick breakfast. It was tough to leave Santa Clara but I was excited about the prospect of figuring out the next phase of our trip. ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Beach Routine

Tuesday, February 12th, 2008
Day 99 When Jordana and I found out her parents were going to meet us we figured we had to reserve some places and do some more planning than usual. Finishing the 2 weeks together on a beach within 2 ... [Continue reading this entry]

Monkey Business

Saturday, February 9th, 2008
Day 96 We arrived early yesterday in Boquete, a scenic if uneventful drive. It was nice to be back in the cool, green mountain town. Even though it was the beginning of our string of bad luck which continued on ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Easy Days of Bocas

Thursday, February 7th, 2008
Day 94 Writing about time spent on a beach and island hopping around a tropical paradise is tough. Really it is, its tough to make it all very intersting to you the reader without you the reader just getting upset. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Shaking it for Happy Hour

Monday, February 4th, 2008
Day 91 We spent the night in an OK hotel on the Panamericana in Santiago, a city in the middle of Panama. The only reason to come here is to break up a journey and that's what we did. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Speeding Wet

Sunday, February 3rd, 2008
Day 90 After a few days in one place I get ansy to move on and discover a new town, good or bad just somewhere different. This feeling had set in here in Panama, although it may have had something ... [Continue reading this entry]

Driving the Canal

Saturday, February 2nd, 2008
Day 89 We decided that it was best to rent a car for Panama, I'm not so sure Norm and Vikki would be up for buses and with only 2 weeks we needed to get around quickly. We were due to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Meet the Parents

Friday, February 1st, 2008
Day 88 I woke up this morning, used the far off shared bathroom and than returned to our 4 bed dorm room. I did this without losing any money and without being mugged. It was going to be a good day. ... [Continue reading this entry]