PART I My friends have stopped calling me as much as they used to because they know I will be leaving soon. “It’s hard for me to see you when I know you are going to be leaving so soon. I don’t like to think about it, because you have been very good for me […]

It is morning in the coastal town of Salinas, Ecuador, but we have no sense of time, banging our palms, fists, on the metal door of the second-floor apartment, calling the phone for the fourth time or so, listening to it ring inside. We are standing on the ledge, literally and figuratively, like purgatory, like […]

So I’ve had an Ecuadorian girlfriend for almost three months now. My little pequeñita. She is like a bloodhound puppy, charitable and loyal. I thought she had a limp until just recently, when I watched her more closely and realized she doesn’t. Sometimes when I recall her, I picture her with a wooden leg and […]

It is Sunday, which means it is time to go to “the bulls,” and in preparation, many of the townspeople have become quite “borracho,” or drunk. To some degree, for this kind of thing, alcohol is requisite. Anyone can participate, but most people are content to watch. “It’s funny, but dangerous,” Sandro says over my shoulder, checking […]

My first marriage proposal of the trip occurred today. All the guys at the front desk thought it was hilarious. Silvia has proved to be a very funny and in-your-face old woman. “You’re very handsome. Are you single?” she asked me point-blank while the guys and I were talking about how I liked Riobamba. They […]