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The short version

Monday, May 10th, 2004

Coromandel (19).JPG

I know I have been bad about keeping our blog updated. It just got to be too difficult to find an internet place with a card reader. I lost a bunch of pictures when my disc got damaged in Wanaka (hence my last entry from there). I have gone back to older entries and updated some of the links so that you can now see more pictures.
Now, to catch up a little….
We left Wanka and drove to the West coast. Franz Josef and Fox glaciers were beautiful but the weather was bad. In fact most of the west coast was rainy but what can you expect from a temperate rainforest? Since the weather wasn’t cooperating we just kept moving north. We spent almost a week up in Golden Bay. The combination of great hiking and beautiful beaches on the Abel Tasman coast made for a good place to stop for some day hikes. Notice the giant fern trees that are the national symbol of NZ.
At the end of March we crossed on the ferry to Wellington on the north island. We were once again foiled by bad weather when we went to hike in Tongariro National Park. We did get in some good off-road driving nearby. One of the best places we found on the North Island was the Coromandel Peninsula. Once again, nice hikes and beaches. After a few days out on the peninsula, we made our way up to Auckland where we caught a rugby game. At about this time We began to seriously stress about selling our van. There were vans and cars for sale all over the city. To try and get our mind off of the van we drove all the way up to the tip of the north island to Cape Reinga. There are miles and miles of beaches and dunes that stretch far inland. On the drive up to the cape we reconnoitered the New Zealand Rally course. We met a farmer that let us stay on his land and watch the race on our way back to Auckland.
After a visit to the junk yard, the tire shop and the carwash, the van was ready to sell. We booked a room at one of the Central Backpacker hostels in Auckland and got up early to go to one of the weekend car fairs held around the city. We arrived early with high hopes. As the morning wore on it became more and more evident that selling the van was going to be difficult. There were about 30 other vans similar to ours for sale. By mid-day only one had sold and the buyers were scarce. We met some very interesting people though. There were some other Antarcticans (past, present, and future) who were all trying to sell vehicles. Some said they had been there for a week or more. By the time we left the fair, we were discussing extending our stay in order to unload the van. We parked the van right in from of the hotel where we were staying with a sign in the door. When I came down an hour later to get some signs to post inside, there was a guy standing there eying the van. By afternoon, he had agreed to buy it. The next day we were on a plane by 14:00 after a quick trip to the beach at Piha.

Wanaka

Wednesday, March 17th, 2004

Mt. Cook (4).JPG

Mt Cook was amazing! We had great weather and did some incredible hiking. The wilderness here in NZ is astounding. We have only been able to scratch the surface. You could hike for weeks with out ever seeing another person. Since we have the van we have limited ourselves to day hikes. We have been making notes to ourselves for next year when we plan to do some multi-day treks. Mt Cook is not even over 4000m but due to the latitude and high annual snowfall it has some incredible glaciations. While at Mt Cook, I climbed Mount Kitchner. It is just over 2000m (not even as high as Boccalatte) but it felt like I was at the top of the world. The climb went up a rarely traveled buttress which makes the knife edge on Kahtadin look tame. I had initially planned to climb along the ridge and meet Luci at a hut on the other side. When I got to the summit of Kitchner the sight of the ridge I had planned to cross nearly made me pass out. It was all ragged and crumbly. I decided to take a different route down a couple hundred meters and back up to the hut. The hut (Mueller) was just built last year. It has a porch on it that gave me some good ideas for an addition to our hut in the alps. Unfortunately, I lost a bunch of the pictures due to a scratched disc.
After the hike, I saw a guy in the parking lot with an AMC Volunteer Trail Crew shirt on. As it turns out he also worked at the south pole this season. We both knew about each other via mutual friends. So, he rode with us to Wanaka where we met up with other fellow Antarcticans from NH. From Wanaka, Luci and I did another hike that took us up a Glacier carved valley to the flanks of Mt Aspiring; NZ’s largest mountain outside of the Mt. Cook area.
Though less than 100km away as the crow flies, our next destination Milford Sound in the Fjordland, is a full day’s drive away. We picked up a bunch of hitchhikers who have been helping to cover the cost of gas. Though Milford Sound itself was anticlimactic with the rows and rows of tourist busses, the drive was stupendous. It is in a temperate rainforest with 2500m glacier capped peaks that drop straight into the ocean. The streams are a crystal blue color and the trees are giants. It is one of the most pristine places I have ever been in my entire life. I went for a hike up to Gertrude Saddle which was a short but grueling hike. At the top of the saddle I had views which typify the area; steep glacier capped mountains, long white clouds, and a fjord at the bottom. We spent the night on the northern shore of Lake Te Anau where we were witness to a very colorful sunset.
We are now back in Wanaka. Luci went to Yoga class and I am getting ready for the next move. Today we plan to drive over Haast pass to the west coast. Fox and Franz Josef glaciers are next on our itinerary.

Back in the Vortex

Wednesday, March 10th, 2004
lake.jpg Well, the vortex has sucked us back in. We are back in CHC taking advantage of the free internet at the Antarctic Center and getting car parts. Internet places want $10 to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vortex

Tuesday, February 24th, 2004
TM.jpg Today has been nice. The surf is good (though I haven't been out yet) and the livin' is easy. We are really enjoying the van. You can park and camp almost anywhere here. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Christchurch

Friday, February 20th, 2004
CHC.JPG The flight went very smoothly and I even slept a little on the plane. We were really packedin and we were seated next to the last group out ... [Continue reading this entry]