Me in Myanmar?
For those of you not in the know about Myanmar (Burma) and why there is a large question mark over that country’s place in my itinerary here is the lowdown.
Myanmar is currently governed by an abhorrently oppressive and regressive military junta which has been in power for over four decades. Without debating the intricacies of freedom and democracy as concepts and the eurocentric, white, male, middle-class biases in most discourses of the two terms, permit me to simplify; the government has stifled democracy and movements toward mass participation in the political process; it is Stalinesque in its liberal use of spies, informers, imprisonment (harsh sentences are imposed for even minor offences) and extra-judicial killings, all to keep the population atomised and acquiescent. Its flagrant abuse of human rights is well documented; torture, forced labour, the conscription of children into the armed forces and the brutal persecution bordering on ethnic-cleansing of the Karen tribes in the west and north of the country are a small sample of a long list of crimes against humanity. Media milking of the ‘Orwellian’ cow (don’t ask me where that peverted image came from) has drained all meaning from that term and yet ‘Orwellian’ still remains a legitimate description when applied to Myanmar.
The country’s rightful leader is Aung San Suu Kyi. Her party, the NLD, won national elections in 1990. The junta, refusing to relinquish political control of the country subsequently placed Suu Kyi under detention for 10 of the last 17 years. In May her confinement was again extended and there seems increasingly little chance the junta will make good on its 2003 promises of a road map to democracy.
That’s the basics, now the ethics – should i travel there?
No! That is the clear answer from Burma Campaign UK, an organisation working for the transformation of Myanmar into a democracy respectful of international human rights. They argue it is impossible to travel through the country without lining the pockets of the military regime thereby strengthening its rule and capabilities.
Moreover Myanmar is often considered unique. Tourism apparently underlies many of the human rights abuses suffered by the local population. Mark Farmaner, spokesmen for the group told Kate McGeown (a reporter for the BBC who travelled to Myanmar recently): “Much of the country’s tourist infrastructure is developed by the use of forced labour…People have been made to construct roads, airports and hotels, and thousands more have been forcibly relocated to make way for tourist areas.”
The intimate links between the tourist industry, the government and its oppressive policies have purportedly spurred Aung San Suu Kyi, to repeatedly ask tourists to stay away from Myanmar. “Tourism to Burma is helping to prolong the life of one of the most brutal and destructive regimes in the world…Visiting now is tantamount to condoning the regime.”
The debate therefore seems quite obvious, indeed for many there is no debate; don’t travel to Myanmar!
The equation becomes problematic when factoring in the wishes of the population. Indeed this is the main issue, listening to the wishes of the population, exactly what the military junta is (rightly) criticised for not doing. In her article McGeown writes that – “The people genuinely want you to come. As I stepped down from the plane onto Burmese soil, my head full of warnings about spies watching my every move, I was pleasantly surprised to find friendly faces rushing to greet me. ‘Thank you so much for coming,’ said an elderly man, smiling through betel-stained teeth.” She also quotes one tour guide who said “It’s very difficult…I really respect Aung San Suu Kyi, and I understand why she wants a boycott, but then we desperately need tourists’ money here – not just for me but for other people too.” Steve Hendrix in an article for the Washington Post asked a local if tourists should travel to Myanmar “he seemed surprised by the question. ‘They should come,’ he says.” These are evidently not isolated cases.
Furthermore, in contradistinction to Rough Guide which refuses to provide a book on the country, Lonely Planet has released a guide for Myanmar with useful advise for backpackers on ways to minimise the amount of money ending up in the juntas vaults and thereby maximising the amount received by the local population. It should be noted that recently, through her spokesmen, Aung San Suu Kyi (’the Lady’ as she is referred to by locals) has softened her previous stance against visitors and suggested that targeted tourism is perhaps acceptable.
In addition to listening to the wishes of the local population, can i actually speak with any authority, moral or otherwise of the Burmese people’s situtation without actually visiting the country? Kate McGeown again – “One day a tour guide showing me round one of the Burma’s many pagodas turned to me and whispered: ‘Please let other people know what it’s like for us here. We need the outside world to understand.’” Can i understand without travelling to the place, by merely being an armchair activist, learning indirectly from the comfort of an internet cafe? Savvytraveller notes that, after experiencing the country for himself, the fear upon suspecting of being watched by the secret police, the self censorship he imposed to protect those he met, he noted how “Burma had become more than someone else’s problem. In a small way, it became my own. Which is maybe the best reason to come here. To add a voice in support of people who are afraid to speak.”
Agreed. But even having the opportunity to talk to the population and learn from them about their situation and subsequently inform people back home, the media or the international community (grand ambitions indeed) is fraught with problems. Using that information could have serious repurcussions for those people. That is a heavy moral responsibilty to be burdened with. Yet surely doing nothing would weigh more.
The Burmese people are starved of information about the outside world. Visitors consistently report the intense interest the population demonstrate regarding life outside of the issues and information the government allows access to. A frame of reference for oppressed peoples, a lodestar around which people can begin to question what they are told and thus compare their lives with others was a large factor in the collapse of the People’s Democracies of Eastern Europe. It was for this very reason that those regimes attemped to block radio and television transmissions from Western Europe. Am i suggesting such a grandiose role for backpackers? Of course not. Backpackers of the world unite?! No. (Although i do share some striking similarities with Che Guevara). But according to savvytraveller perhaps we do have a part to play. A fellow Myanmar visitor told him that it’s alot better now. “On her first trip, back in 1994, locals feared any dialogue with foreigners. ‘It’s changed a great deal in that, now, you’ll get everybody speaking to you. Whether it’s just to say hello, whether it’s to practice their English, or whether it’s to put their side about what’s happening politically in the country.’”
David Steinberg, director of Asian studies at Georgetown’s School of Foreign Service agrees. In the aforementioned Washington Post article he states, “My opinion is that tourists should go…I’m a great admirer of Aung San Suu Kyi, and I’d very much like to see her come to power. But I disagree with her on this point. Tourism provides a rare channel of communication for the Burmese.” Then the main issue becomes whether one could face the moral responsibility of speaking to a local about issues such as politics when this could result in serious consequences for them and their families.
All these arguments have to be weighed up extremely carefully. However there is one argument commonly heard from those travelling to the country which i will not be swayed; adventure and excitement. Savvytraveller reports of a swedish traveller called Maria who travelled to Myanmar simply because it held fascination as a closed country. I find that sort of attitude fairly immature. Not only is it disrespectful and ignorant of the suffering of the Burmese people but it is also utterly selfish – a short adrenaline fix with scant regard for the consequences of those they meet, speak to or eat with. All for the right to brag to people at home about how daring they are.
Some of the backpacking travellers i have met are backpacker snobs. Most people have met them, “Oh i would never go to Thailand, NZ, Oz (insert other countries here)…so many backpackers”…or…”Oh so you went on the backpacker trail“. Thailand received roughly ten million visitors last year, Myanmar a tiny fraction of that. It can be disheartening to see the Brits abroad type which i’ve mentioned before, (though in general most of the travellers i’ve met have been very respectful of the cultures they visit and, shock horror, interesting and intelligent people in themselves) but I’m not going off searching for an ‘original’ place to travel just so i can sneer down my nose at people who backpack places where other feet have dared to tread. I’m not going to miss places that are beautiful, thrilling and enlightening simply because they may be well travelled. These arguments have not entered into the question mark hanging over Myanmars place on my itinerary. Backpacker bragging bores me and to be honest, finding somewhere unique to go or something unique to do is practically impossible nowadays, someone else will always have done it. I thought the trip i was doing, especially when i reached tibet and nepal would be quite devoid of backpackers (something i was not too comfortable with, after all i am travelling by myself). It seems i had little to worry about, i have met tens of people doing exactly the trip i have planned and many others doing substantial segments of it. When one finally realises uniqueness is a pipe dream, adventurism and backpacking bragging rights become a matter of arithmetic: if x number have travelled to a country one can brag… brave, adventurous, exciting. If x+1 travel there…forget it, boring, stale, unexciting.
Wow what a rant!
I desperately want to go to Myanmar, it is supposedly a beautiful country, rich in culture, history and spirit. Since reading of the ancient city of Bagan some years ago i have wanted to travel there, but the country will still be there when the military junta collapses.
I’m still debating but i feel my mind is 90% decided. I’ll give it a miss. This time. The other six countries (perhaps seven…i’m thinking of Bhutan now) hold enough surprises and delights for one year i am quite sure.
Just with essays, so the same with blog posts; they help clarify your positions. That post was as much for me as it was for others.
If you would like to find out more about Myanmar i can suggest a number of articles on BBC news to give a basic grounding. But for more detailed info and ways to help Myanmar i suggest visiting the website of The Burma Campaign UK where you can send an email to Myanmar’s government thereby joining in a campaign led by Mtv and BCuk, or buy Damien Rice’s single whose proceeds go to BCuk. Both would take only a few minutes of your time.
p.s. This has nothing to do with Burma but Simon Kingsley Winter almost made me get a B in A’level history.
Tags: Travel
andrewlegon
Si wrote:
i am quite frankly shocked by that statement drew, in fact it was me that helped you achieve your results. I seem to remember an incident involving Mrs. Mount, yourself and a goose, was to blame for the “B” that you were threatened with……..!
Liked your post mate, if i’m being honest i don’t know much about Burma at all (I know Ryan may be screaming at his monitor now as he realises that i am not well versed in Burma’s plight and that of Aung San Suu Kyi) well F.Y.I i am looking at the various websites where infomration is available.
Drew, take it easy chap, keep safe.
Si
goose
Lionel B wrote:
This is the best piece you’ve written, Legume, and promises over-lunched status before long. Perhaps you should, indeed, save it up for a future trip when you can put more money, intellectual effort and understanding, and practical purpose into it. However, I would have every trust in your instincts if you did decide to go. Maybe you need a good, sensible buddy to boost in with?
You’re spot on about uniquness. All the asian overland routes have been covered since the 60s. If you want to get off the beaten track, you’d be better off “travelling” through the vast council estates of england where angels, truly, fear to tread; or maybe just looking at the bits of china that are utterly uncovered in the guides and just boosting in… maybe not much fun, but instant hardcore status. And to what end? I once met some people in Sumatra after maybe three months on the road. “How long have you been travelling?” rang the now impossibly tiresome, yet obligatory refrain. Poised hippies replied “seven years…” WTF?! Where are the bookends? Where is the life which the travelling enriches?
Lionel B wrote:
Infact I would say that there aren’t many better qualified, more sensitive people to handle visiting Myanmar than you, so maybe you should go and treat it as a research exercise rather than a jolly; better you than many, many others… and what’s the worst that could happen – you decide it’s just not on, return to Thailand, and write from a position of experience rather than conjecture. Isn’t it always better to see for yourself? You’re a Master of Philosophy FFS!!
Lionel you’ve just made the percentage go down from 90 to about 50%. Congrats on a highly persuasive argument.
Its true i am indeed andrew legon, mphil (cantab)…it doesnt get much better than that, well except a doctorate…maybe a doctorate is on the cards. Doctor Legon would be pretty cool, and it would only be two more years no?
Hmmmm thinking cap back on.
Oh the pain of indecision.
Simon Winter, driving me and whole host of other miscreants up to McDonalds every history lesson was not conducive to understanding Nazi Germany ideology.
Glad the post spurred you into action though. Buy the single. It’s tres (which means very in french) bien (which means good). Fluent!
why does it say i am now in Oz? I’m not!
In the Guardian today…the top five worst showbiz world exclusives. At number 3 – Jordan: “Guess who was a right cow to me at Elton’s?” Aung San Suu Kyi? No. Liz Hurley. She “looked down her nose” at our girl (OK!).
Lionel wrote:
I don’t know – visiting MaccyDees would probably learn you a lot about Nazi symbolism and, thereby, ideology. I got a C in History… bollox.
Si says:
See after all the trouble i got into at school with “history teachers” who did not understand why i was never there to absorb the valuabe information they wanted me to, Lionel hits the nail on the head, i was infact conducting research for an essay entitled ” MaccyDees can be compared to the height of the Nazi empire, dicuss”……..unfortunatley they did not see it that way and i failed A level history!
On a more serious note i agree with the comments that Lionel has posted i think you should go and see what it is like for yourself mate, after all like you say you are andrew legon, mphil.
Simon Winter, its andrew legon, mphil (cantab)!!! the cantab is the most important bit. Good grief man.
Liam says:
Hello,
I think you’d need to go to Myanmar to get an idea of what it is like. You have summarised the arguments well but these are based on other sources.
Being an armchair activist and partaking in the boycott doesn’t help the Burmese people at all. (Nor would an email to the government). It further isolates them and keeps them out of the international spotlight. Myanmar is desperately underdeveloped in comparison to other countries in SE Asia and needs the support that (responsible) tourism brings.
Where do you draw the line? Should English people against the war in Iraq leave their jobs? Or refuse to pay tax? A certain amount of taxpayers money goes towards the conflict.
Every Burmese person I spoke to (earlier this year) endorses individual, responsible travel to their country.
A certain amount of money would undoubtedly go to the junta but if you are careful you can channel the majority of your funds to the people and to private enterprise.
I’d advise you to go to Myanmar, you wouldn’t regret it.
Enjoy your travels,
Of course, to debate the issue i would have to base it on other sources…if i had been already, there would be no need for me to have the debate.
Some good points raised though. I’m quite sure many people would want to specify where their taxes went especially with regard to Iraq. But thats a debate for another post(and blog probably – i’m not sure 25% birds nest is big enough).
I’m not convinved that me, or the vast majority of backpackers travelling to Myanmar could keep the country in the interntional spotlight however. I can’t speak for you but my network of friends does not include many diplomats or world leaders (though myself, and probably Lionel B have ambitions!). More young backpackers in the country would not necessarily lead to an increased groundswell of opinion aginst the regime. As far as i can tell anyone who has ever heard of the country knows about its plight, those who don’t know of the situation generally don’t know of the country and thus are not likely to travel there. But that is conjecture.
Plus it is still possible to help the Burmese people through campaigns and the like, it does do ’something’, but only to a point. And you have to ask yourself how much you can achieve without ever visiting, agreed.
I think you are right though, it is possible to channel the majority of funds away from the junta.
As for regretting it, i have every confidence i wouldn’t. The travellers i have spoken to paint a picture that is right up my street.
It’s a toughie.
An update- http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/5309442.stm
Liam says:
Yes I see what you mean! My point was just that it becomes more real when you are actually there.
I think if people are visiting Myanmar then it will at least keep people aware. It was the increased awareness of the Tibet issue that made it so well known and gained support from around the globe, although that might not be the best example seeing as the people there are still under occupation… but still, there are plenty of pressure groups and assistance to refugees for example.
The problem is that China is such a massive ally to Myanmar, and the junta know it. I really don’t know how far western countries are prepared to go because of this support, considering how wary they are of the Chinese and their growing influence.
As you may already know there are many projects along the Thai Burma border that are worthwhile ways of helping out. The main ones are in Mae Sot.
Whether or not to visit Myanmar was definitely a decision I agonised over for a while! You have certainly done your research so if you do decide to go you’d be well prepared for the situation there.
I’d recommend http://www.irrawaddy.org as a good news source for Myanmar.
All the best
Jo says:
Stud monkey mphil (cantab)
I yield to your superior intellect, the debate on Myanmar and all that jazz is way above my brain capacity. Today I was taxed by which butterfly looked prettiest on my mother’s day gift bags! I feel this retail nonesense is turning my brain to mush, I’m going back to school next year!
I would however like 1. back you up that Simon Kingsley Winter was a bad influence on all of our A Levels and I firmly believe that I was marked down, especially in geography, due to my association with a “less desirable” member of the RMGS student body (Sorry Si, but you know the Humphries hated you, which in turn meant she felt the need to punish me for my dealings with you!) and 2. object to being termed as a miscreant, I was simply a misguided young lady with a Penchant for bad boys and chips!
***Steve Irwin – RIP***
Thankyou Josephine for backing me up there. simon you are outnumbered. Your numerous McDonalds trips added inches to our waistlines and deducted letters from our exam grades. Shame on you sir. For shame!
Si says:
ok it would appear i am outnumbered, however, drew i am doubtful that you have added any size to your waist line since you reached puberty! secondly you have about seventy five letters after your name so be grateful for those and lets not live in the past about a letter here and there on exam grades, i mean how long ago was that??
jospehine, you too raise a good point regarding my “bad boy” image (i’m not sure that i had one and i’m sure that being the upstanding member of the public that i am today surley i have left that image in the past along with my white puffer jacket and Pete Fergeson)
Oh an by the way, i never forced you guys to go any where, i think you both need to focus your anger at your exam grades (bear in mind that yours truely achieved U,U and N in his A levels) at McDonalds!
for more info on how to direct your aggression i suggest:
http://www.mcdonalds.co.uk/
Or for those of you who are already anarchists (you know who you are ) i suggest this site:
http://www.angelfire.com/pa/McCracker/
Be safe
Si
Si says:
well i could accept that i am outnumbered, however a couple of things are wrong with your comments drew,
1. i dont think you have added anything to your waistline since reaching puberty!
2. i was like a holiday rep if you will, there to have fun with you guys, not to lead you astray, and when you bear in mind that yours truly achieved U,U and N in his A levels i’m sure that will make you a little more pleased with your results! plus these things were like a million years ago so lets stop living in the past people!!!!
Josephine, i’m not sure i ever had a Bad Boy image! and i’m sure that if i did i would have left that behind along with my white puffer jacket and Peter Fergerson!!
THe Maccy D’s trips that you talk about, not my fault, i never forced you to go there, i was the transport. I suggest you direct your anger at Mcdonalds!
Be safe
Si
Si says:
i think i broke the website, sorry drew
Whoops sorry Si i seem to have authorised two of your comments.
You could be right about my waistline, I’m still waiting for my voice to break though.
Lionel says:
That’s what I’m talkin’ about! I’m scheduled back from the Vegetable Roadtrip next week; a winner, the bookmakers predict. As part of my entry I’ve written a poem. Titled ‘Josephine’, it’s about my Sweet
Potato VR companion (with a anaological, metaphorocal vibtation towards that most succulent Woolies temptress):
My Sweet Potato
is Lovely and Mellow
Positioned in the Backseat of the Car
She stares out the Window
And Sings me a Jingle
I love her, my Vegetable Star
I won’t keep her Hidden
In six states it’s Forbidden
And they know she’s a fan of de Sade
When I win the Roadtrip
We’ll play Cops with the Tidlywink
And plant Tingle around Josephine’s Park
If not Myanmar, just try Laos!
It’s similar laid back, not over-run yet by tourists and you will have a ball of a time!
Cheers,
Chris
http://www.nomad4ever.com
Thanks for the coment Chris. Have recently spent a couple of weeks travelling through Laos and it has so far been my favourite country in South East Asia.
Great website by the way.
Andy
Can we link this please?
Sure, what website would you want to link it to?
My name is Anja Moeser and I am a German College student at the International University of Applied Sciences Bad Honnef Bonn. I am currently working on my dissertation thesis “The travel motives of visitors to areas recovering from crisis at the example of Myanmar”. The survey is directed at all people who have already traveled to Myanmar. The success of my thesis depends significantly on this survey and the answering of the questions takes on average no longer than 10 minutes. Therefore, I kindly ask for your assistance. Naturally, your answers will be handled anonymously as well as confidentially.
Thank you very much!
Here is the link to the survey: http://survey3.questat.de/index.php?sid=18447&lang=en
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