horseback riding and sunbathing

Last weekend was just about perfect. And, to clarify, by ‘weekend’ I mean ‘Sunday’, since I’m working six days a week once again. And, only having one day off, I wanted to get out and try to do something interesting. Back in January and February, when I had a life, I was dancing five days a week, so I started out looking for dance classes on a Sunday. In North Bay, and during the summer at that, that was something of a no-go. And then I thought of horseback riding.

Now, prior to last weekend, I had been horseback riding exactly twice in my life (possibly barring some pony rides as a child that I no longer remember); I went on an hour-long trail ride as a teenager, and I got about 15 minutes on a horse when we took my god-daughter riding once when I was in my twenties. But I’ve read so much historical fiction in my life, so much fantasy, that my brain thinks I know how to ride. It’s very bizarre.

It was a beautiful, warm, sunny afternoon, a great day to spend some time outside. I drove half an hour east on highway 17 (part of the trans-Canada highway, woo!) with the windows down and CBC’s Vinyl Cafe on the radio, out to Rutherglen, Ontario. Von Doeler’s Ranch is tucked away at the end of a dirt road among a few little hills velvety with grass. I was greeted by a great big shaggy dog, but it took a few minutes of searching outbuildings before I found any people.

Elana was my teacher for the hour-long lesson, and she started me right at the beginning, showing me how to curry and brush the horse. I rode a lovely mare called Rosie, who was very patient with her clueless rider, but during the whole currying process, Mindy, in a neighbouring stall, kept butting me with her head, trying to see what was going on. Her wuffling kept tickling the backs of my arms. They let me choose whether I wanted to ride English or Western style (I chose English because of an unfortunate encounted with a saddle horn on that long-ago trail ride) and showed me how to buckle it on. Then the bridle and reins. We then led the horse to a fenced enclosure and the riding part of the lesson began.

It was a glorious afternoon. I got to do something I had always wanted to try, with the warm summer sun from above, and the kicked-up dust from below and a breeze full of the smell of wild grass and horses. During the afternoon, there were two things I was most proud of. First, being able to get on the horse without help – the stirrup is high and I’m somewhat out of shape at the moment, and I was convinced I was going to get stuck halfway up, not being able to get my leg over, with my butt sticking out, and then probably fall off in the dust. I’m sure it wasn’t graceful, but I got myself up on the first try. The second thing I was proud of was being able to post, if only for a few paces at a time, on my first lesson. There were a few narrow logs laid out in the dirt, the very, very beginning stages of jumps, I think, and there was one pass in my laps around the ring, where I was able to ‘steer’ the horse at them, and post, and then take the jumping position (I’ve forgotten what it’s called) and keep my heels down, all at the same time. So, for about 10 seconds, I was really riding. It felt wonderful, and Elana was a wonderful cheerleader.

I wasn’t entirely sure my legs would hold me when I swung down (again, not gracefully), but while they were somewhat rubbery, I didn’t fall down. As I said, it’s been months since I’ve been able to dance, and my muscles are for mush. We walked the horse back into the stable, and Elana showed me how to take the saddle and bridle off, and I brushed Rosie down one last time.

Back on the highway on the way back in to North Bay, I got a call from work asking me to drop a package off for my boss near Callander. Since Callander was on the list of places I wanted to visit anyway, I didn’t mind so much. On my way back from dropping off the package, I let myself go into full tourist mode. I pulled over at the lookout over Lake Nippissing to take some photos, then turned off the highway to drive through Callander, for once, instead of past it. It was after 4pm, and my goal was to hit the museum before it closed at 5pm, but I was distracted by a nearly-empty park that stretched between the road and the lake. I parked, just intending to take a couple more photos, but… I was seduced. The warm sun, the trees, the lake, the grass… I instantly gave up on the museum. My first thought was to wander out to the end of the little pier and dangle my feet in the water for a while, but the sign I passed warning against contact with the water because of toxic algae that had been found quickly put me off that idea. The ‘beach’ was just a narrow strip of sand, no way to avoid contact with the water, so I spread my sweatshirt out on the grass and sprawled on top of that. I took off my socks and shoes, rolled my jeans up past my knees, pulled my t-shirt up to the edge of my bra and succumbed to the primal joy of feeling the sun and the warm breeze on my skin. I pulled out my book and read for a while, another great joy. But in the end, I put the book aside and just enjoyed the moment, listening to the waves, the wind in the birch leaves, the call of seagulls, the far-off yells of children playing, soaking in the smell of the breeze, of the lake – cleaner here than in North Bay – of sun block and grass and fresh air. This was the first real summer weather we’d had all year and it was wonderful to just soak it up. I could feel my whole body just relaxing into the prickle of the grass. I don’t really spend a lot of time living in the moment, but this was two perfect hours of just that.

It was after six when I packed up and headed back to the hotel. I dug out my bathing suit and headed down to soak my abused leg muscles in the hot tub for a while. A perfect end to a perfect day.

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Due North

I just finished my second round trip between North Bay and Toronto. Yet another stretch of highway is becoming very familiar. It’s a very different trip than the Toronto-Stratford run. Not only is it twice the length, but it has a very different feel.

As I’ve mentioned before, a very large portion of Canada’s population lives in the Windsor-Quebec City corridor. For most of the drive out to Stratford, you’re never very far from the orbit of one city or another: Toronto, Mississauga, Milton, Guelph, Waterloo, then Stratford itself. And even when you’re driving through farmland, it’s still all very… civilised. The rows of crops are precise and perfect, the animals are neatly fenced in, the farmhouses are neat and picturesque. Mostly, though, it’s the trees I’ve been noticing. In South-Western Ontario, the trees are where we want them to be, where we allow them to be. Our vegetation is very much under control.

Even up into Muskoka – cottage country – where there are certainly a lot of trees, humans are still in control. At least along the highway. Once North of Muskoka, though, everything changes. At first I thought it was just the vegetation. While, technically, it’s not yet Boreal forest, there are far fewer deciduous trees, far more evergreen and birch. And the underlying granite shoulders up past the surface, rough and raw. But, I’ve been realising, it’s more than that.

Up here, the forest presses right up against the edge of the road. You can feel the mass of it, the weight. And it seems to go on forever, dense and impenetrable. Beautiful. Majestic. This is what Canada must have looked like when Europeans first got here. Forest, wild and untamed, as far as the eye could see. How isolated early settlers must have felt. How intimidated. I was reading about Callander, a town 15 minutes or so south of North Bay. It was founded by George Morrison in 1880. He travelled from Muskoka to Lake Nipissing by ox cart with his family, then put everything he owned on a raft and floated it to the site that is now Callander. I imagine because there was no other earthly way to get there. Only the loggers were there first. As for North Bay itself, wikipedia tells me the area was first explored by Samuel de Champlain in the early 17th century, and then very little happened up here until the arrival of the railroad in 1882.

Any human structure has had to be carved out of the forest, and you can see the forest pushing back. Many of the billbboards by the side of the highway are already half-obscured. It makes me think, in the not-so-distant future, after the population crashes from disease, or starvation, or war, how quickly the forest will swallow all this again. And some lonely wanderer, a future Samuel de Champlain, hacking his way through the underbrush, will stumble face first into a faded blue billboard enveloped by trees. A few metres further on, he will find the highway, cracked and uneven from the climate and neglect, weeds and saplings pushing up through it. And a long stripe of sky above it, where the canopy can’t quite yet reach from one side to the other. The first sky he’s seen in days.

These are the places my mind wanders during the two northern-most hours of my drive. The past, the future. There’s so little up there that speaks to me of the present. It’s wild and eternal and uncivilised. And liberating, somehow.

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something to look forward to

I’ve been more absent than I’d like over the last week or so. My new job has started. I was always supposed to move to North Bay for a couple of months for this one, but I was supposed to move in mid-August. Instead, on my first day of work I was told I was leaving at the end of the week. So I moved a week ago today and I am now living in a hotel near Lake Nipissing.

I’m sure, at some point, I will have time to actually go see the lake. I would also like to do a couple of short road trips. Someone was telling me about Cobalt, Ontario, today, and I might have to go check it out. I would also like to see Callander, which I have driven past a few times, but never actually visited.

Right now I’m working 8-til-8, and it’s high stress. It pays well, though, so I have promised myself it is paying for my travels. I’m going to hoard all I can, and go away as soon as it’s done. As a symbol of this promise, I bought my sturdy hiking boots specifically for travel. I’m wearing them every couple of days to break them in so they’ll be nice and comfy when I’m ready to go. I’m also starting the process of renewing my passport. Little steps, but they’re symbolic. Or something.

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to tour or not to tour?

I am a very uptight traveller. I lived on the road for nearly three years, I know this about myself. I am the kind of person who will turn up 3.5 hours before my flight, just to make sure I get a window seat on the plane. I don’t mind waiting around at the airport. I’d much rather be sitting there, secure in the knowledge that I’m checked in and ready to go, than have the extra hour at home and be completely stressed that I’m going to be late.

I’m a little OCD, and I like to be in control. Continue reading

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addicted to travel

So, not only am I planning my trip to Morocco, I’m also planning future trips. I blame the Intrepid brochures. And, some day soon, I plan to post an updateable list of the Things I Want to do Before I Die. One of those things will be a trip to New Zealand. I have been looking into the possibility of working holiday visas, and was hugely disappointed to find that most of them have an age range of 18-30. I’m 31. Welcome to the story of my life. There’s a similar story about why I don’t currently hold a British passport, but I’ll spare you the boring details.

Anyway, since I couldn’t work down there, or so I thought, I was looking into WWOOFing. WWOOF stands for Willing Workers On Organic Farms, and it sounds like a wonderful program. Another thing, I’m sure, that’s much more romantic in my head than it is in real life. But I have a long-standing obsession with soft furnishings, and have crocheted rugs and blankets galore, and the thought of spending some time on a sheep farm in New Zealand where they card and spin their own wool is immensely appealing. BUT, technically, you need a working visa in order to do it, since, in the government’s eyes, you are receiving payment for your work in the form of food and housing. So, in a fit of frustration, I sent an e-mail to the lovely people at WWOOF New Zealand asking them if I had any options left. And I got the following reply:

Hi Kithika,

You are in luck as BUNAC offers a working holiday visa for up to 35 year olds! The website to apply is http://www.swap.ca/out_eng/destinations/newzealand.aspx

Woohoo!! This has made me a very happy camper. It means I have time to go to Morocco and then save up again for my next trip. Of course, being all excited, I want to go RIGHT NOW. But I’m sure I’ll be able to find some patience somewhere. I still think the age limit sucks, though. Why shouldn’t you be able to take a working holiday when you’re in your forties or fifties if you want to?

In the meantime, however, with all this talk of visas, I’ve just thought to check my passport, and it expires in March. Morocco is among the many countries that requires your passport be valid for six months from the time of entry, so I’m going to have to get to work on renewing it and the Certificate of Entitlement to the Right of Abode in the UK that’s in it. And if I’m very smart, I’ll get it submitted before I move to North Bay next month. It’s not like I’ll be leaving the country from there.

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a week on the 401

I’ve managed to wangle myself a week off between contracts – almost unheard of – and what did I end up doing with it? Travelling the length and breadth of the 401, as it turns out. Between moving my stuff and visiting with friends I covered a 244km stretch of it multiple times. (Note, this doesn’t include the many, many kilometres driven on smaller highways and county roads. It’s been a long week.) I was out near Picton in Prince Edward County, and I was hoping to be able to wedge in another mini-adventure, but the main purpose of the trip was spending time with friends, and we just never found the time. Out of curiosity, though, because I have spent so many hours driving on it this week, I looked up the 401 itself on Wikipedia and was actually quite surprised by the results.

First of all, you might be thinking, what kind of geek writes about a highway? I know. Bear with me. Continue reading

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mini-adventure in rural Ontario: St. Jacobs

Today’s motto: if you can’t have big adventures, then have little ones. It’s going to be months before I make it over the ocean, but that doesn’t mean I can’t visit new places. I’m spending a lot of time in rural Ontario this year, it seems, and there are some lovely small towns around. So today, despite the lousy weather (15°C, grey, miserable and overcast – unusual for Ontario in July) and the growing need to curl up with a blanket and a cup of tea, I jumped into Alli, my beat-up, second-hand, twelve-year-old Honda and hit the road.

I’ve been living in Stratford, Ontario, on and off for two years. Since before I first came here I’ve been saying I wanted to take a road trip through Mennonite country and visit St. Jacobs. Two years later, I still had never been, so that’s where I headed last Tuesday. St. Jacobs is a small town in Woolwich Township, near Waterloo, Ontario. Originally called Jakobstettel, literally ‘Jakob’s village’, it was founded in the mid-19th century and grew up around a mill run by Jacob C. Snider, for whom it was named. St. Jacobs is mostly known for its Mennonites and its Farmers’ Market. Its other claim to fame, I discovered today, is that it is the location of the very first Home Hardware (now a chain with hundreds of stores nationwide). Continue reading

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in the planning stages

This time it started with a job interview. I work in theatre, and I had an interview for a job that could have taken me away on tour, to Russia, or Brazil, or New Zealand. The job never panned out, but it left me with a terrible case of itchy feet.

Morocco has always been my go-to location when I dream about an exotic adventure. I’ve had a long-term fascination with North Africa and the Sahara. I’m sure bellydance, which has been a hobby of mine for years, has something do to it. And it’s distinctly possible I’ve seen The English Patient or Hideous Kinky or Fortunes of War one too many times. And somewhere along the way, this general fascination focused itself down to Morocco in specific. Egypt and Tunisia are also on my list of places to visit before I die, but there’s just… something about Morocco. Medinas and souqs, spices and dye vats, blue-painted walls and mud-brick mosques, a camel train into the Sahara, Marrakech, Agadir… I have to go.

So, every time my feet start to itch, or I’ve been stuck in one place for too long, or I’ve worked too many 60-hour weeks in a row, I go back to my dream of a trip to Morocco. This time, though… the plans are becoming more concrete. By the time I had half my route planned out, I realised that this is actually the very beginning of my adventure: poring over my shiny new copy of Lonely Planet, not yet torn or stained or dog-eared, living the adventure in my head as I study bus routes and climate charts and maps. So this is where I want to start documenting my trip.

It has had several incarnations already. I’ve looked at volunteering in an orphanage in Rabat with Cross Cultural Solutions. I’ve thought about an organised bus tour. And as much as I like the idea of living in one city for several weeks, getting to feel like I live there and make friends in the community, I need to see everything, all of it. And as much as the safety and lack of responsibility is appealing, I don’t want to be shuffled on and off a bus with thirty other tourists. This needs to be special. This needs to be an adventure.

Which could be interesting. Because I’m not really an adventurous person. I hate bugs, I love my indoor plumbing, and I can be a very finicky eater. Definitely not one of those neo-hippy eco-types who usually strap on a backpack to go trekking through Africa. So this could turn into quite the character-building experience.

The last time I absolutely had to be ‘anywhere but here’, I planned the first leg of my journey. I’m going to fly from Toronto, Canada my home town, to London, England where I lived, on and off, for five years and visit with friends and family for a few days. From London, I’m going to fly Easyjet to Madrid, Spain. Three friends of mine from when I toured Europe in my early twenties have ended up there, and I would love to see them again. So, overnight in Madrid, and then get on the train down to Gibraltar. In my touring days, I spent several weeks in Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao, and briefly visited Valencia and Toledo, but I never really got to see the interior of Spain, and I love trains, so this seemed like the perfect beginning to my adventure. A little touristing and an overnight in Gibraltar, then catch the ferry to Tangier. And that was where I left off last time; my imaginary self had at least made it onto Moroccan soil.

So this week, fresh with post-interview frustration and coming off of three straight months of 60-hour weeks, I picked up the thread in Tangier. One of the reasons I had picked Lonely Planet from among the half-dozen available tour books was because of the sample itineraries. Page 27, Moroccan Odyssey, one month, Imperial Cities and the South. Finally, something for a traveller wanting a trip that lasts more than 15 days! Originally I planned to follow it exactly, but as I’ve been digging through the details, I find I’m using it only as a guideline. Instead of travelling along the coast to pick up the start of the suggested route in Casablanca, I’m going to come south through the interior, visiting Tetouan and Chefchaouen, then through Ouezzane to Meknes. From Meknes, I’ll take the day trip to Moulay Idriss and Volubilis, possibly walking between the two sites, which Lonely Planet assures me should take about 45 minutes. Then on to Fez. Then south again through the Middle Atlas, through Ifrane, Azrou, Midelt, Rissani and the Ziz Valley to Merzouga and Erg Chebbi and my overnight in the Sahara. And that’s as far as I’ve made it this time. My imaginary self is sleeping under the stars in the Sahara. Finally, the desert.

I am also make more concrete plans. Although maybe concrete is the wrong word. Spring is a bad time to travel, work-wise, so I’ve decided I want to go in September; not too hot, not too cold. So it will either be this September or next September, depending on available work and finances. I also want to avoid travelling during Ramadan or Eid, which would make next year the better choice, since Ramadan will start earlier in August next year than this year. But a year and a half is a long time to wait. But if I go this year and can’t leave until early October because of work, will it be freezing cold and raining the whole time? There are quite a lot of variables, so everything is negotiable at this point.

I want to put together an itinerary, with a plan for bus schedules and hotel stays, but I want to see if I can leave it as flexible as possible. Lonely Planet suggests booking in advance in many situations, but I’m wondering if one or two days in advance will be enough. And if it’s allowed to enter Morocco without having exit plans booked, I really want to leave my end date open, so that I can stay longer, or leave earlier if I want to. Or maybe, since Easyjet is quite cheap, I’ll just buy two tickets a few days apart.

These are the things I’m thinking and dreaming and planning at the moment. So exciting!

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