Irkutsk, week 3
Good morning, or rather happy day after St. Patrick’s Day! (That is, where you are!) It is not celebrated here. My friends went to a pub last night, called “The Liverpool Pub” to celebrate, but I haven’t yet heard how it went, I am battling an ongoing illness. This past weekend has been somewhat stressful but there are definite positives as well! Stacy came over to help cook, and I did in fact cook chili and cornbread as mentioned, all improvised, as I had no recipe, but magically after we had, to our delight, discovered baking powder in the cupboard and chili powder at the market, it was a success! Friday, Stacy and I took our weekly test, Alla sent us off early, and we wandered off to wait until the other class was done so that we could all hang out. I had a fever and felt pretty badly as we wandered down Karl Marx and Lenin Street. The two main streets in every city are almost always Karl Marx and Lenin! We soon found a bookstore with a couch and Stacy insisted we go in and sit. So, sit I did. Until, a police officer came up and began to talk to me. He was not angry or rude, just perplexed because he was trying to explain something to me. I explained in what little Russian I knew that I was sitting because I did not feel well and that I was waiting for my friend. I called Stacy at that moment, she was off looking at books, while a worker came over who spoke English and laughed saying they had a policy that bags were to go in lockers and coats on the hooks by the door. I knew this rule, I’d followed it before, but I was slightly terrified that I looked like a pauper off the streets trying to find a warm place to sit down! Stacy came back and found me immediately and she bought a notebook and we left. We headed towards our favorite place in Irkutsk, a Spanish coffee shop. Stacy is originally from Portugal and speaks Portuguese and Spanish. Although the menu is in Russian, the coffee is definitely Spanish and the tiny little café is beautiful. Because of the Russian idea of inside and outside being separate worlds, café’s are even more secluded and private than anywhere else. Soon we returned to the center and picked up the rest of our group. Riley was off this week with a professor, climbing the mountains, visiting villages, and studying. She has been to Russia twice before and speaks Russian at a level far past the rest of us. So, the six of us headed off to the mini-football (indoor soccer) stadium, my father’s team was playing that night. It was a wonderful game even though they lost; none of us had ever seen football played this way. Wooden floors and a basketball court sized playing field. The nets were even smaller. The game however, seemed far more dangerous, fierce, and difficult than any of us had seen! We all returned the next day for the next game and my father’s team won! That evening we went to the Philharmonic Hall to hear a philharmonic orchestra play Bach. Much to my surprise the first few notes made it quite clear that in fact they were playing Mozart. The poster had not said this. The group was amazing and a female pianist played Mozart’s piano concerto no. 27 beautifully, while the first violist (also a female) conducted! The concertmistress and the three female cellos then all of a sudden broke out into Piazzola and I gasped as they continued with Bach’s Brandenburg Concerto No.3. I was in heaven! I am in a city of literally 300,000 people in the middle of Siberia, and the musicians here might as well be playing in a metropolis symphony! Sasha then showed us the Mongolian restaurant he had found, which was wonderful and we ate and headed off to a “Klub”. This one was not a night club, there was no security, and was simply a bowling alley with a dance floor, so much better than last weekend. Sunday morning I woke up with a fever and a cough, I’ve never had such a bad one. I stayed home, delirious all day and all that night. My host mother, a doctor, and a huge fan of alternative medications came into my room every hour on Sunday and then on Monday it was my host brothers who came in every hour with either fruit or salad, and some sort of herbal concoction. I have never ingested more vitamin c in my life. Tablets, packets, oranges, glasses upon glasses hot water and berries chock full of antioxidants (we don’t have these berries in the US), bitter tea, sweet tea, tea with herbs floating in it that I had to drink. Alla called me mid-day and I asked about going to see a doctor about my cough that still wouldn’t go away. She said she’d be by that evening and that we’d call an ambulance for a ride! “What!?, it’s not an emergency!” She laughed at me, I said “I can’t afford that!” She laughed even more. Apparently, all ambulance rides are free here. Haha! Also, it does not need to be an emergency at all; they provide everyone with a ride that needs one to get health care. I hate the United States healthcare system! (and it’s not going to change, because the one person who wants to actually reform it is not going to get nominated!) However, later on I realized that I felt a bit better and called her to tell her I did not need to go. Originally she was getting me antibiotics. However, my mother prescribed me some over the phone. Stas, my host brother, was to go down to the аптека, pharmacy, (two buildings away) to get it for me. It cost about $40. I now realize how much I trusted him, because I had to give him my check card and pin code in order to get cash, as both he and I did not have enough and no one else was home. Everything was fine, he even brought me a receipt and joked about it with Alla that evening when she and our host family coordinator came over anyway to see how I was doing. My host mother got into a car accident last night. She is perfectly fine, thank god! It also wasn’t her fault, she got hit from behind. I am not going to the first village this week. Instead I am staying with my host family and resting. I will join the group this weekend instead when they head to the second village. I am going to miss Irkutsk and my host family so much, it was been a wonderful experience. I am considering coming back here, via the Trans-Siberian Railroad, for my Independent Study and volunteering at the Baikal EcoWave Organization and staying with my family if it is alright with them.
As for today I still have a cough but am feeling better. My group has left for the town so I feel mildly abandoned! (of course its not their fault!)
I hope things are well…I keep seeing anti-american protests on tv, I wish I knew more of what was going on in American news, why is condoleeza rice on tv here every hour? haha, oh well!
Tags: Travel
March 17th, 2008 at 10:55 pm
Kira,
You keep asking why Condeleeza Rice is on TV all the time. How would I know? I don’t receive Russian TV on my cable network…… I imagine it is just reruns of propoganda. She has been in the Middle East recently trying to “jump start” the peace process again…..but not with much luck. You would think that long term, consistent policy decisions supporting human rights and economic justice might result in better progress as opposed to rushing in on a sporadic basis and expecting everyone to play nice because the Americans decided to finally show up. “Crisis” diplomacy is an oxymoron, and we have practiced it far too long.
Economically, our Federal Reserve has taken some unprecedented and questionable steps in shoring up LENDERS of bad mortgage money. Believe me, the actions of the Fed are NOT designed to grant any relief to the BORROWERS of the money. And, to complicate matters, much of the bailout money is going to non-Fed members. The Fed is “buying” bad loans from these mortgage companies and giving treasury bills (gov’t backed securites) to the companies. So when the home loans go bad, the Federal Reserve loses the money. Taxpayers and other member banks will then be required to cover these losses, and the poor lenders “only” get a gov’t backed bond paying 3.5% tax free interest, which is also paid by the taxpayers. We are hearing of very negative financial conditions world wide and expect there to be some impact of our situation in both Europe and Asia. Politically, the Democratic race has become a free-for-all with the outcome much in doubt. The Republicans are quitely planning for the fall and will make McCain a formidable candidate. However, his fixation with the war and his complete lack of knowledge on economic matters may hurt him.
We are glad you are feeling somewhat better and are hopeful you can continue on this week. Let us know of your departure to and arrival in St. Petersburg. Watch out fot that landing! Dad
March 30th, 2008 at 3:56 pm
I hope you are feeling better! Sounds like you are having a wonderful time! Bring back tons of pictures. We are thinking of you at Benson Presbyterian!
April 2nd, 2008 at 7:27 pm
Hey, how about updating once in a while, huh? It’d be nice, since some of us haven’t heard from you in weeks and worry that you may be in Siberian prison.