somewheredownthecrazyriver

Actually, no.  I’m really enjoying it so far.  Yes, there are many times when I would love to say to someone, wow look at that!  But for the most part, its good to feel smack-dab-right-up-against-the-world.  It’s right in my face, all the time , and there is no-one else there to shield me.  And not that much time to think.  So much to take in, but still the need to be aware.   And that is a plus.  Being present.  Here.  Now.  People don’t hesitate to talk to me.  I meet the locals, and learn so much.  It might get ‘old’ at some point but so far – it’s all good.  For the most part, people are friendly and helpful, and curious about me too.  Having said that, I must also remember to be wary of strangers who seem just too friendly, and Never blindly answer the constant ‘ what’s your name’ and ‘where you stay’?  Otherwise be prepared to find they just happen to be hanging around when I go out the next day, and much too anxious to re-engage.  There’s lots of good advice for women travelling alone.  Take it all in.  Make those right reactions automatic, and stay safe.

last week was bad news for everyone.  worldwide financal crisis.  a wild ride still ahead.  hoping for the best.  enjoying Georgetown.  it is only a small part of the island of Penang, but it is the main draw.  afternoons are hot here.  just stand in the sun and feel the burn.  mornings and evenings are very comfortable.  took a bus up the mountain to Kek Lok Si, a beautiful temple with a great view.  much rain the first few days but dwindling now (rainy season ending).  still often a downpour once in the day.  first 3 nights in pre-booked Love Lane Inn (RM25 for single room).  i would not recommend it.  moved just down the street to the Old Penang Guesthouse (RM35 for a single room, well worth the extra RM10).  nice old building, recently opened, done up very well.  new, clean, friendly, helpful.  low key (not a party place).  days spent exploring, shopping, eating, chilling, reading, surfing the net, star satellite tv.  there is still so much of Malaysia to see.  the Perhentian Islands on the east coast, but almost monsoon season there, when they close down.  so i will give it a miss this time.  also, Taman Negara (national park of ancient rainforest), Cameroon Highlands, Borneo.  Georgetown is good for now.  the old part of the city is the most interesting, and very compact.  everything available, just a short walk away.  very friendly people and great food, culture, climate.  reasonably cheap.  though countries to the north may be cheaper?  most people speak English in the larger cities in Malaysia, so its easy for me.  lazy, hazy tropics.

after 5 nights in Kuala Lumpur, took the monorail back to the main train station to board the 8 pm night train (Ekspres Langkawi) to Pulau Penang (‘Betel Nut Island’ in Malay) (cost MR43).  air conditioned 2nd class sleeper (book the lower bunk for easy in and out http://www.seat61.com/).  beds all made up, train was good.  cleaner and newer than the one in Thailand last year.  clean toilets, clean sheets, good pillow, comfy mattress.  very fast train, blasting through the night, only a few stops.  slept a bit, on and off.  glad to be horizontal and on the lower bunk. (it beats flying).  4:45 am alight in Butterworth (only 10 minutes late, as we had departed a bit late from K.L.).  walked with Mathew, a fellow traveller from the train.  short walk to ferry, then short ride to the island (nice, open-sided ferry – not closed in).  walked in the pre-drawn darkness towards the hostels, along a main street, Lebuh Chulia.  stopped at an all-night cafe for breki of roti naan, mine with sugar, butter and a coffee.  yum.  sun-up, walked on to Love Lane.  grateful for good company –  in that (to me) ‘strange’ space – at that dark, early hour.  the universe was kind.

train from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur departed 8 am.  first class air con seat.  AUD$57.  the view: endless palm oil plantations.  every hill and dale – row upon row of palm trees.  arrive K.L. 2:45 pm.  monorail to Bukit Bintang station.  Bukit Bintang is the happening area in K.L..  hostel ‘across from monorail station, directly behind the huge sony ericson sign’. 1 night there at Paradiso B&B.  MR27 (AUD$10) per night in a 4 bed dorm.  well worth it.  this is the place.  brilliant owner ‘Hazdy’.  cool, charming.  thin, bald, all smiles.  born in a longhouse on Borneo.  well travelled, lived in oz.  speaks english and spanish, some japanese etc.  remembers everyone’s name.  a wealth of information, a brilliant host.  old building but Hazdy has done a great reno on his place (be prepared to walk up!).   free wifi (all hostels in asia so far).  nice little rooftop garden.  so many satellite tv stations (star network),  so well able to keep up with the crazy downturn on the world financial scene.  after one night, moved to Attapsana Guesthouse a few blocks away.  had pre-booked it for 3 nights (private room RM35).  older, but clean.  the owner (also called Hazdy) was friendly, helpful, kind and polite.  ate in several of the cheap places along the street.  great food for a few dollars only.  waited too long to book the train to Penang, then found – need to book at least 48 hours in advance.  so – needed one more night accommodation.  Attapsana all booked – returned to Paradiso.  again, enjoyed this place. 

Jetstar flight.  Sydney to Darwin.  this was the smoothest flight ever.  had to look out the window to see if we were moving.   arrived Darwin – did not see the city from the air, as hoped.  sat outside for awhile between flights to feel the air.  feel the humidity.  but nice and not at all uncomfortable.  the end of the ‘dry’, and not yet into the buildup to the rain.  thinking . . . i will return.  just a short couple of hours and connecting flight to Singapore.  my bags checked through from Sydney.  cleared customs again to reboard.  good flight.  arrived Singapore around 9 pm.  took a city train to a station near the hostel.  dark and getting late so decided to catch a taxi the rest of the way.  waited and waited at the taxi stand – along with many others.  the taxis were often empty but just flew by.  eventually it was my turn.  dark, late.   taxi to a mass of high rise condos just across from the big train station (trains to Malaysia).  Aunty Ann’s Hostel  (AUD$25) was in one of many apartments in a large complex.  bldg 5, floor 23.  website says they have only small (2-bed) dorms.  not so.  there might be one but i did not see it.  so 12 pm and the choice of an upper bunk in a fully packed, mixed 6-bed dorm or ???  ok.  slept in my clothes rather than rustle around.  prefer Sleepy Sam’s hostel but Aunty Ann’s is right across from the train station and so – no need to take an early morning taxi to catch my train to Kuala Lumpur.  one full day in Singapore to shop and explore before another hostel night and then departure.  Aunty Ann’s was filled with asian travellers.  (not one like me did i see).  everyone was very friendly and keen to engage (practice English).  it was a refreshing change from the usual hostel scene.  conversations began with “are you a traveller?”

11:55 pm.  direct flight AC33 Vancouver – Sydney.  arrived 2 days later (time change).  train to the city.  2 nights at the old-style Glenferrie Lodge, Kiribilli.  single room. ($$$ splurge, but needed time to adjust after the long flight).  moved to Sydney Central YHA http://www.hostelworld.com/hostels.php.  4-bed female dorm.  $36 (for yha members).  6 nights.  my dorm was quiet and reserved.  time flew by, mostly readjusting, organizing.  frightened by the global financial crisis.  watching the news.  did not use internet at the hostel (the usual $4 per hour).  found an alternative at the State Library – free ulimited wifi.  happy to have my laptop, and so no need to wait for a library computer.  bought a transit pass for the week.  $57 , for unlimited travel within the city (all buses, trains and ferries).  a good deal.  Sydney was lovely.  fresh, clear, perfect temperature.  springtime down under.