somewheredownthecrazyriver

5 a.m. – my moto driver Tana, picked me up and we rode in the dark to Angkor Wat.  in pre-dawn light – trying to take it all in – i walked across the causeway, past the crowds waiting for sunrise and on – into the depths of Angkor.  followed the song – to find one man chanting – crouched in prayer at the altar – incense burning, and stopped to listen as time stood still.  walked on – the silence, magic.

angkor is so impressive, and huge.  worth waiting for but don’t wait too long.  so many temples – melting in the heat – dissolving in the rain – crumbling beauty .  if there is one place i will always be glad i saw – this is it.  but words cannot describe.  and photos do not capture.  just go.

and then – dream on.

a bit sad to leave Chang Mai – it seems i just get used to a place when its time to leave.  enjoyed my stay at the Green Tulip (http://www.greentuliphouse.com/).  last night here in Bangkok, went with a friend to the famous festival on the Chao Phraya River.  the Loi Krathong “festival of lights” takes place all over Thailand.  we braved the humungous crowds to buy our bouquets , take a boat onto the river, light the candle and insence, and float our little boats down the river – making a wish for the future like everyone else.  out with the old / in with the new.  and time for me to leave Thailand.  looking forward to Cambodia!

trying to travel cheaply, i have resisted most of the tours on offer in Chang Mai.  however that means i have missed out on much that this city (of 2 million people !) has to offer.  have based myself in the ‘old city’ surrounded by the moat and have enjoyed the markets and temples within this area.  but many attractions lie outside the city of Chang Mai.  the number of tours on offer just boggles the mind.  as usual, that leaves me somewhat paralyzed with indecision.  finally took a tour this morning, to the major temple that sits high on the mountain behind the city.  since the first day, i have looked up there and felt it was something i would really like to see.   first to a ‘tribal village’ – up and beyond the temple – in the forest.  

then back down aways to the temple, a massive complex of many smaller temples.  Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (‘the temple on the mountain, that holds the sacred scriptures, built by the hermit monk’)  is 600 years old.  great views through the clouds to Chang Mai far below.  definitely a worthwhile tour.  soon to leave Chang Mai – still so much i have not seen.  i hope to return.

Sunday Night Market is a real highlight on a visit to Chang Mai.  streets are blocked off, and lined with vendors.  loved the crafts – very good, unique and inexpensive.  

there is great, live music – mostly by small groups of blind musicians – here and there as you walk along the very crowded streets.   infectious rhythms and lyrics – even though you can’t understand the words.  crowds around – listening and loving the beat – all with smiling faces.  the music – maybe the most delightful part of the scene.  but then there was the food too – busy cooks, and many tasty things to try, though much i could not identify.  

the many beautiful temples along the route are open, brilliantly lit, and often with worshippers inside.  during the day it is easy to miss the temples – lots are closed and don’t stand out as you walk around the old city. 

found the atmosphere of this market amazing.  busy, crowded, entertaining, yet very relaxed.  best to go slow – and enjoy. i walked slowly for 4 hours and did not see it all.  runs every sunday – 6pm to midnight.  next time i will leave more room in my bags.  lots of goodies to buy here.

Oct 30-31 night sleeper Bangkok to Chang Mai.  this time, no Daewoo.  so an old style railcar and not up to scratch, as we were to find out.  instantly, you see that the railcars are older and the bunks are narrower, and once we passed the half-way point, it became apparent that something was not right.  were alternating between full speed ahead – crawling very slowly – and stopping in what seemed to be nowhere – for no reason. 

no worries – kept going.  until morning time – arrival time – and no Chang Mai..  finally, stopped for good about an hour outside of Chang Mai, and hours behind schedule.  there was a problem with the brakes and after much ado and no solution, the train backed up onto a side track and we were transferred onto a much older-style train for the final leg.  arrived in Chang Mai four hours late and a little bedraggled.  the last part of the trip had great scenery – up into the hills – lots of dense rainforest and high train tressels over the jade green jungle valleys – beautiful.  very happy to arrive in Chang Mai.

Oct 27-28 Penang to Bangkok night train (2nd class air-con sleeper).  another good ride – one of the newer Daewoo sleeping cars again.  enjoyed the roomy cot at night and blood-red sky at sunrise.  saw for the first time the shanty lean-to town that sprawls for miles along the outskirts of Bangkok.  met a couple from the train in a Bangkok cafe – they from my home province – travelling again after almost 30 years, saying so much has changed.  Bangkok was better this 2nd time around for me.  instantly knew my way and so was easily able to broaden my experience over last trip.  amazed at just how much i ‘did not see’ last time.  it was all there – just did not see it.  or maybe it depends on where you have just come from.  this time, after 2 weeks in ‘old’ Georgetown, Penang – Bangkok seemed strikingly modern and up-to-date, as i spent more time in the flash downtown shopping area – a shopper’s and gourmet’s delight http://www.siamparagon.co.th/v3/index2.html .  could spend days just shopping and browsing.  my one day in Bangkok flew by.  did not buy anything but the food was superb.  very happy to have booked the Cozy Bangkok Palace http://www.cozybangkok.com/index.htm – just a short walk from the main Hualamphong Rail Station.  so – easy in and easy out – for onward train to Chang Mai.

here is a link to a map of Pulau Penang (and all of Malaysia).  http://www.malaysia-maps.com/penang-map.htm  

lots of rain the last few days has left the air crystal clear – and the sun blindng in its brilliance.  it is hot!  have seen more ‘sights’ – Botanical Gardens, Penang Hill and Spice Gardens.  these are tourist attractions but interesting.  Botanical Gardens not too exciting but you will see monkeys there for sure.  no bus to the gate so get off bus #101 near the Indonesian Consulate and walk that last kilometer (ask someone the way).  as always – it is best to go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat.  yesterday i met a fellow traveller at the bus stop and we toured together for the day.  first the Penang Hill air tram (bus #204 and again, you have to walk the last bit).  for 2MR you can take the tram up to the half way point lookout.  the second tram which goes from there to the top is ‘broken’ right now.  but there are still great views from the half way point.  after coming down we had lunch in one of the local hawker stalls – i had fried noodles with won ton and a freshly made ice lemon drink.  about 4MR all up.  then bus back to the Komtar Tower bus exchange – and bus #101 to the Spice Garden at Batu Ferringhi. 

the garden is fairly small (13MR entrance fee) but we enjoyed it.  got some nice photos of blossoms – and learned what a difference the ‘flash’ makes, on my camera.  then as we waited by the roadside in the rain for the bus back to town – a car stopped – 2 local ladies inside – and they offered us a ride.  ok.  then they offered to drive us around the island to see more than just the local tourist areas.  so we drove from Batu Ferringhi through Georgetown and along the coast to the airport.  soon the downpour came, and the sun went down.  it was very dark, the traffic jammed and the roads flooded, so we did not really ‘see’ too much.  but being four women – close in age and in good spirits – we had a great time –  lots of laughs and much to talk about.  friendly people! 

the Jin Xiu Art Gallery & Tea House on Muntri Street is a special place.  the menu is limited but their Thai cook prepares excellent Thai food, and the house specialty is Chinese tea.  many locals go there just to talk and visit over their choice of tea in the fine surroundings.  (i went there after a morning journey to the Pulau Penang Botanical Gardens and a long walk in the hot midday sun).  the manager sat with me, and prepared the tea which he then poured from the tiny teapot into tiny teacups.  we talked and enjoyed.  the traditional tools and the process of preparing the tea were very enchanting.  there was focus and concentration.  i felt my energy return.  he explained the finer points of fragrance and flavor, and i was able to sample several teas (white, green, red, black, and oolong).  sipping, tasting, talking – hours flew by.  magical.  i left feeling very peaceful and very refreshed.

bus #101 from Georgetown west, along the north coast.  the road narrows and winds up and down, then through Batu Ferringhi (a beach resort town) and on, to the end of the line at Teluk Bahang (a small fishing town) and the entrance to Penang National Park.  got off there and walked the pier to see the fishing boats and their catch.  then some ‘chicken rice’  and ice lemon for lunch at the cafe, before heading into the park.  the trail is in the rainforest but stays close to the beach, up and down, lots of roots to clamber over and quite wet.  the views are lovely – white sand and blue sea, and the forest very dense.  so hot – swear i lost a kilo of water-weight – my face beet-red.  the forest was quiet – only a little birdsong and the sound of insects.  saw one large lizard swimming in the ocean, and a small one on the trail.  many tiny, transparent crabs scuttled across the sand, and many larger round holes perhaps made by larger crabs.  other walkers on the trail here and there – saturday today.  one hour along, turned and walked back along the trail to the park entrance and a roadside food shop.  they offered me a seat to wait for the bus.  and malay-style fish to try?  maybe next time.  too hot to be hungry.  drink only.  typically, they were keen to talk about anything – politics, the state of the world, food, fish, Penang, and of course – where you from?  how you like it here?  what do you think about . . . etc.  I have to say again – the people in Malaysia, so far, are just so friendly.  the ride back again through Batu Ferringhi.  miles of pretty beach but few in the water (jelly fish?).  lots of big hotels and large condo blocks and much new development underway.  there is a popular night market area – must return another day.

evening walk along Tan Jetty – heritage site in Georgetown, Penang – close to the ferry dock.  old houses on stilts – from the days when the chinese immigrants could not afford land, so they build their homes over the water.  a very interesting place – people still live there.  such a contrast with modern Penang, and a quiet, peaceful place to watch the sunset.