Mountains, Malbec & Mendoza
Mountains, Malbec & Menoza
After spending a couple of days exploring Santiago on foot, and staying at the beautifully restored colonial “Happy House Hostel” (Author’s Choice from the Lonely Planet – double bed with ensuite bathroom, plus sauna, $62/night), Fred and I decided it was time to head east to Argentina.
We booked a semi-cama (reclining seat) on Tur-bus for the 6 hour bus ride to the city of Mendoza. Since our bus ride was during the day, we were able to relax and observe the terrific scenery of the Andes mountain range. We could easily see the snow-capped mountains of Mt. Aconcagua at 6959m as well as many others. We climbed steeply the meandering mountain roads with dozens of switchbacks, each view appeared better than the last. A few of the mountains had ski lifts which were closed for the season.
The bus drove into the customs building where we got off the bus to get our passports stamped by both Chilean and Argentinian customs. After a search of our bus, we were back on the bus to continue on our way.
Soon after leaving customs, we started our descent into the famous great wine region of Mendoza. While enroute, we past through the spectacular countryside of the Sierra de Uspallata, where the movie, Seven Days in Tibet, starring Brad Pitt, was actually filmed. Majestic mountains, fertile valleys, and lush pastures surrounded us. For the next hour or more, the bus followed the River Mendoza and the scenery gradually turned to vineyards (called bodegas in Spanish).
Upon arrival in Mendoza, we were met at the bus terminal by a gentleman representing Hotel Condesa. After showing us a brochure and offering us a discount ($40/night), we decided to check it out. We were pleasantly surprised once inside our room that we were able to get BBC. We hadn’t watched any television or read any news for at least 3 weeks (except in the hostel lobby in Santiago the night of the US election).
We were very impressed with the city of Mendoza. It lies in a wide valley and with its clear, blue skies, the snowcapped mountains are visible from downtown. Although its population is around a million, there are very few high rises (in case of “The Big One” – a major earthquake since the city has had to be rebuilt a couple of times already). The streets are wide and lined with bushy sycamore and plane trees. There are several plazas (small parks) surrounded with excellent outdoor restaurants, pubs, and ice cream shops. A big bottle of Braham beer (600ml) was only $2 and a bottle of Norton Classic 2006 Malbec only $9.
When in Mendoza, going on a wine-tasting tour is a must. Luckily for me, the tour didn’t start until 2:30 pm since I was still recovering from over-indulging on Malbec the night before! It was one of those hot summer nights, enjoying dinner outside on the promenade, and the wine was going down so smoothly . . .
We were a small group of 8 (2 fellow Canadians from Victoria, 3 Irish girls, and a Frenchman). First, we went to a state-of-the-art bodega called Lopez. The guide took us through the whole process and showed us the equipment involved. Apparently, the wine is the same each year since the weather conditions are always optimal and consistent. The Mendoza region only gets 5 days of rain a year, and with its hot days and cold nights, this conditions are perfect. We then went to a traditional, family operated bodega called Cavas de Don (somebody – I forget the last name). Most of their vines were 40 – 60 years old but they did have some 100 year old vines also. She advised they didn’t use machines to remove the grapes, but did it by hand using scissors. We tried a couple of Malbecs here, but preferred the Lopez Malbec.
We also toured a family-run olive grove farm. She explained there were two kinds of olives – one for eating and one for oil and that there are 200 varieties of olive trees. On their particular estate, they had 5 types of olive trees and most are around 100 years old, but they can grow to be 400 years old! The colour of the oil is dependent upon the kind of olive tree. Also, the acidity of the olive oil determines whether it is Extra Virgin, Virgin, or Regular. As the olive matures, it goes from green, to purple, to black. Once it is brown, the olive is spoiled. When sampling olive oil, the guide explained you need to smell the aroma and not to worry about the colour. After the tour, we sampled olive oil on bread (with sundried tomatoes) and olives. Fred would have purchased a lot had we not had to carry them for the next 6 months.
FRED’S ASSESSMENT OF THE WINE
Since I am sitting here enjoying a delicious bottle of Argentinian wine, Lisa insisted that I describe its taste, texture, etc. I am not a wine connoisseur but I do know what I like and what I don’t like so I suppose I am qualified to assess and critique the wine. Please keep in mind that I have already begun drinking this wine as I assess it.
As I lift the glass and swig (perhaps this is not the proper phrase) the wine in my mouth, I detect a distinguished floral great mouth feel loaded with earthy notes and soft red fruits of white cherry, cranberry and plum.
But wait! I am getting ahead of myself. You probably wish to know the name of the wine and what it looks like. The wine is made in the famous wine region of Mendoza Argentina by FINCA BELTRAN duo and it is a Malbec, a variety of wine for which Argentina is famous.
It’s a red wine but as I shake the glass, I can see that it is a bright red ruby colour with a slight hint of yellow and violet hues. As I swish (this is also probably not the right term) the wine in my glass, I can see that the wine clings to the wall of the glass and drips down the side slowly (this is supposed to indicate a quality wine as was explained to us on our earlier tour of a winery),
Now back to the taste. First, let me have a drink. Okay, I can say with great certainty that this Malbec has a soft and bright entrance with coca-cola flavours, earthy notes, sweet ripe red fruit, with sweet notes of chocolate and a little tannin. A floral, great mouth feel that is very yummy.
I’ll try another sip. Yes, I can also say with certainty that in mid-palate, the wine picks up with a bit more tannin, spicy tobacco, and almonds. I also detect something else. Let me drink a little more. Oh yes, the mid-palate also delivers a little spice of cinnamon, minerality, citric notes, and a pleasant grassy feel on the tongue. There is also a big fruit concentration in the middle palate. Very ripe but not over-ripe.
This wine is not the least bit stuffy or overpowering. On the contrary, it is very smooth and offers a gentle entrance along with a velvety texture.
I’ll try another glass. This Malbec has excellent integration of Oak with a floral structure that compliment one another. It’s a bit hot on mid-finish but begins the finish with a bright entrance, sweet notes of blackberry and gooseberry, a hint of guava, and a bit more tannin and acidic fruit.
Another dink. Oy yes, there is also a taste of current and spice, mint, and a touch of alcohol on the nose.
My last glass! I am happy to say that the finish does not disappoint. The supple tannins and buttery and oaky notes provide a nice lasting finish.
My last sip. I must say that this wine has great depth, balance, and structure and is a good value at 9 Pesos (about $3 US) a bottle. Give it a try.
Cheers 🙂
Fred n Lisa
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Tags: Mendoza, Travel
frednlisa
Wow. this has been a great blog to read. It’s great to find some Canadians on a great journey. My husband and I are planning a similar trip to yours starting in December 2009 for a year. So far you are visiting some similar locations to us. Your hostel recommendations are already in my itinerary plans for recommended locations to stay.
Keep up the great posts and I look forward to following your adventure
Michelle
Hi Lisa and Fred!
Your last posting was great! I will look for the Argentinian wines at our local LCBO. Can you ship any of the olives home? I know how you love them in your Greek salads. Have an extra bottle on me!
Lov Caroline
Ola Michelle, Thanks for the feedback. Let me know if you need any recommendations, I’ll try and help you out! Lisa
Hi Guys,
A great post and it wasn’t even “Happy Friday!” Good for you! We think of you often and are enjoying the updates and photos. Stay safe.
Laurie
Ola Laurie!
Glad to hear from you! I hate to rub it in, but everyday is like “Happy Friday” (from noon on!).
By the way, can you ask a nurse/doctor at the hospital for me, how long non-dissolving stitches should stay in, please?
Cheers! Lisa
Hey!
I can’t complain considering that I don’t have to work – so most days feel like a Friday. However, the big dumping of snow we just got tells me it’s going to be a long winter. Listowel has 15-20 cm on the ground and the trees are still covered. More to come tomorrow. Enjoy and cherish that sunshine!!
Apparently the average time for non-dissolving stitches is 7 days, but if it’s a deeper wound you are looking at up to 10 days. I’m curious – is it for you/Fred or someone else?
Chat soon,
Laurie
Hey Fred & Lisa…really enjoyed reading your blogs…fantastic trip!! keep writing and look forward to more adventures!!!
Ola Susan and Dennis,,
Glad you are enjoying the blogs. You’ll have to try to get a judging job here in South America sometime!
Lisa