Livin’ Like We Were Dyin’
For my fellow Tim McGraw fans:
“I was in my early 40’s,
With a lot of life before me
When a moment came that stopped me on a dime . . .
What’d we do. . . ”
We went mountain biking!
Fred and I are relieved to report that we managed to conquer the “World’s Most Dangerous Road”! Bright and early yesterday morning, Fred and I, (along with twelve 20’s and 30 year olds), headed off to Corioco, Bolivia to mountain bike down the 66 km notorious Death Road.
In one year alone, it claimed 320 lives as the result of motor vehicle accidents, thus claiming its status as the world’s most dangerous road. Bolivian adrenelin junkies jumped on its notoriety and have since opened up adventure trips down this periless road. Not to miss out on the thrill, Fred and I signed up with what appeared to be the most reputable and trusted company, Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, paid our $85 each, signed our waivers, and were off. We were told that the company had only had one fatality – a 54 year old American who suffered a heart attack, then went over the cliff.
While travelling enroute from La Paz to the start of the ride (at @ 4850 metres above sea level), our guide Matt from Edinburgh, Scotland, advised us he routinely takes about 3 people a week to the hospital with serious injuries. He recounted numerous stories of what happened when people have taken their eyes off the road for even a moment. There would be no birdwatching, admiring the scenery, or anything else distracting. He really emphasized the nature of the consequences for being careless or overzealous. Then, he proceeded to tell us that 14 tourists have died on the road and how some of them had met their fate (2 Israleli guys were fooling around and went right over the cliff, a French girl’s brakes broke, an Irish girl was going to fast and went off the cliff, etc). Needless to say, Fred was “wondering how he let his wife talk him in to such a foolish escapade”…. All the while, rock music was blaring in the background, to the tune of Tom Petty’s, “Free Fallin'”, AC DCs “Highway to Hell”, and Michael Jackson’s “Thriller”.
Now, all of a sudden, I came to the realization that my prowess in the Bike Rodeo contest that I won back in Goderich when I was 8, was a far cry from tackling the world’s most dangerous road. Plus, the last time I spent any significant time on a bike was when I was with WRPS on Bike Patrol, biking on flat, groomed trails or downtown Kitchener on smooth pavement. I must admit, I was beginning to feel a little apprehension.
Upon arrival, we were each given a helmet, goggles, a buff, a water resistent jacket and pants, a safety vest, gloves, and a sturdy mountain bike. We were given brief operating instructions on our bikes, and a last list of what to do and not to do on the trail. Also, to give the right of way to mammoth busses and vans, and to be prepared for drivers who blare their horn to “scare the pants off unexpecting gringos”. Also, we were expected to stand in the range rover position (basically standing straight up on the bike, leaning over the handle bars), and to “stay loose and relaxed”. yeah right.
Off we went, single file, leaving 2-3 van lengths between us. The first 22 km was on a 2-lane highway, totally downhill, complete with curves and bumps. We stopped a few times to make sure everyone was comfortable and to ensure the bikes were in proper working order. We had to by-pass going through the tunnel, as bikers aren’t allowed to go through there anymore after a British girl went through, with her sunglasses on, and went straight into the wall, ending up in a coma for 3 weeks.
Next began a 43 km, death grip, down the rocky, dirt, World’s Most Dangerous Road. I was amazed at the seriousness of the road – sheer drops – 300 metres down. I only saw maybe 2 guard rails the whole time. I couldn’t believe we were actually crazy enough to pay to do this. One bad move and it’s game over. Luckily, we had 2 awesome guides, one at the front, and one at the back. Everyone went at their own pace and mine was somewhere in between. I’ll never forget, trying to keep pace with Fred, only to witness him whiz down the hills like a kamikaze – keeping up with all the young guys.
In our group of 14, 3 guys crashed. Luckily, none were too serious. All the accidents happened within the last 5 km – 2 guys hit a rock and went airborne. Lucky for them, they went into the cliff, not over the cliff. I came around the bend, to see 3 guys off their bikes. One was Fred and I immediately thought he had crashed too. Fortunately, he was just removing the rock that the 2 in front of him had flipped over. A last guy (who had been biking from San Francisco with his wife all down the coast of California), also crashed but they were behind me so I never did see what happened. The guide said he was very lucky not to have been more seriously injured (he was bandaged in 3 places though).
All in all, our guide said our group was very sensible and fast. We enjoyed a beer (or two) together after the ride and it was great listening to other traveller’s tales (that could be a blog in itself). The guides took photos and video footage throughout the ride and we purchased the dvd (will send it home mom).
So far, it has been the highlight of my travels so far. One of those days when you really feel alive. Plus, the guide said we had the best weather they’ve had in the past couple of months. We even got a t-shirt upon completion of the ride saying we survived.
Well, time to go. On to new adventures,
Lisa n Fred
Tags: Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, La Paz, Travel
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