Goodbye Galapagos!
Fred and I have just returned from an exciting week in the Galapagos Islands and we’re back at “The Magic Bean” in Quito. We spent the first 5 days on the M/Y Monserrat I, a 16 passenger, First Class, 91′ yacht, with 12 others passengers from Belgiam, Germany, U.S., England, Chile, and Australia. Our first day, we stopped at Sullivan Bay (to walk across an impressive lunar landscape of lava fields formed in eruptions in 1890) then across to Bartolome Island and Pinnacle Rock (the most photographed of all the islands) where after a 30 minute climb up, there are impressive, panoramic views of sandy bays, volcanic rock, and the vast Pacific Ocean. We went snorkelling (in wet suits since the water is cool at this time of year) and saw lots of colourful parrotfish, etc but the highlight was watching the penguins zooming about fishing for food right below us.
After a very rough night on board, we arrived to the island of Genovesa at the northeastern part of the archipelago. Here, we walked through an spectacular seabird rookery full of tropical birds including red-footed boobies, frigates, swallow-tailed and lava gulls, galapagos mockingbirds, etc. After walking on shore, we dawned our wet suits again and snorkelled along the coast through some pretty high waves to watch sea lions and more penguins swimming in the ocean. There are reportedly hammerhead sharks in this area, however, the visibility wasn’t that great so we didn’t see any. After getting back on board, the sun came out, and Mary, the American retired school teacher from Oklahoma started signing the country tune, “It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere” so we decided to enjoy a couple of Pilsners on the top deck and warm up from the cool ocean.
Next day, we arrived at Seymour Norte, perhaps my favourite island which was full of wildlife. I say “wildlife” but the animals and birds are actually unafraid of humans and they allow you to get very close to them (you could probably touch/pet them but that is not allowed). There is a lack of predatory mammals so they have not developed the instinct of fear/flight. There is a long, walking trail through which we saw many sea lions, marine iguanas, and the blue-footed boobies on this island. I also spotted a poisonous snake (small – but still poisonous) and a poisonous centipede. Our guide, Tommy, said he had never seen a centipede this big before.
Our last day on the cruise brought us to San Cristobal island where we toured the Galapagos National Park visitors centre. As the rest of the passengers flew back to Quito, Fred and I stayed an extra day on the island (at the Casa Blanca hotel right on the waterfront) where we could hear sea lions barking and playing all night. We found an excellent second-story restaurant with oceanviews which cooked up great pizza ($8.50) and $2 for a large beer.
After a 2.5 hr speedboat ride back to Santa Cruz island, we spent the last 2 days relaxing in Puerto Ayora (population 11,400). We found “Mariposa Ranch” where we went horseback riding for 2 hours in the tropical forest through paths made mostly by giant tortoises. We came across several of them on the path while riding and the tortoises would immediately retreat their heads into their shells and hiss at the horses. We also spotted a Vermillion Flycatcher – ruby red – a very beautiful bird. Both horses were extremely well behaved and of a mixed Galapagos/Thoroughbred breed (Fred’s horse was Muchacho, and mine was Flecha meaning arrow for the star formation on his forehead).
Now, back in Quito, using Wi Fi in the restaurant/hostel where we are staying. Fred was happy to read the highlights of the KW Record while enjoying his coffee this morning but it is now time to depart for our next adventure at the “Kapawi Eco Lodge”. We are only taking 1/2 our luggage since we will be flying on two very small private airplanes (my fear of turbulence is setting in….). Now, for another hair-raising, Quito taxi ride back to the airport!
Until next time,
Lisa n Fred
Tags: Travel
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