Etosha National Park
From the Ombinda Lodge in Outjo, we drove north towards Namibia’s grandest park, Etosha. Also called the “Great White Place of Dry Water”, it is 23, 175 sq km and is filled with some of the most impressive flora and fauna of any place in all of Africa. Etosha protects 114 mammal species, 380 bird species, 110 reptiles, 16 amphibians, one fish species, and countless insects (well-represented in our washroom!). With rainfall varying between 300 and 500 mm per annum, the park is also home to 800 different plant species.
After entering the park, we began encountering wildlife immediately. Herds of zebra, springbok, gemsbok (oryx), a few giraffes, and a lone warthog were some of our first animals we spotted close to the roadway in just the first 10 minutes The speed limit was posted at 60 km/hr and it wasn’t long before the paved road turned to gravel. We drove for 2 hours before arriving at the Halali Rest Camp (private room, with bath, fridge, and private patio for $80/night). The Park has 3 different camps and we chose this one because it was central and apparently had the best wildlife-viewing waterhole.
After checking in at the camp, we relaxed with a pint of Windoek and some lunch. From 6:00 – 9:00 p.m., we sat quietly with the rest of the game viewers down at the watering hole. Initially, a small herd of Red Hartebeest were quenching their thirst but it wasn’t long before they were pushed out by the subtle arrival of a rare Black Rhino. We watched the rhino (which is actually grey) for about an hour before he left. At one point, he did challenge and snort towards the viewers. Our viewing platform was about 50 metres from the watering hole. The Black Rhino are supposed to have poor eyesight, but excellent hearing and sense of smell.
After about an hour, the lone male left the scene and not long after, a Black Rhino mother and her calf (? not sure if you call the young a calf or not), arrived tentatively. They shared the water hole with countless birds swooping down, as well as Blue-headed Guinea Fowl, and towards dark; bats. As we continued to watch (and spray mosquito repellent), a different lone male black rhino arrived. He inspected and nudged the little rhino for about 20 minutes before going off on his own.
We had an early night with the plan to awake early and check out the watering hole. We were down there by 6:30 a.m and watched a large herd of Blackfaced Impalas grazing on the tasty grass around the watering hole. After a half hour with no change, we decided to drive around the dirt roads looking for more wildlife. We spotted a few Blackbacked Jackals playing in the distance in the field, a Spotted Hyaena stalking a large group of Springbok, the world’s heaviest bird – the Kori Bustard, a herd of Blue Wildabeest, and a Banded Mongoose.
Since we booked a night safari from 8 – 11 p.m, we decided to go to the watering hole from 6 – 7 before dinner. On arrival, there were a lot of hartebeest present, but were very disappointed to learn that just a half hour prior, there were 4 elephants playing and trumpeting in the watering hole. Fred had his heart set of seeing elephants in the park, but due to a lot of rain they had the week before, they have not had to come to the watering holes as they could find water elsewhere in the park. Maybe we would see them yet
We went on our night safari with another couple from Angola. While enroute to the watering hole, we came across a couple of Spotted Owls, Hares, and countless Spotted Hyaenas. With all the hyaenas present, the guide figured there must be a kill around. He shone the infrared light around the perimeter of the watering hole and sure enough, 3 male lions were laying in the grass. Because they weren’t sitting upright in the hunting position, he figured they were full and satisfied. Hyaenas are also scavengers and will eat the leftover bones. Amazingly, the guide said he heard heavy footfalls, and sure enough, he shone his light in the distance and located a black rhino. He said they will sometimes circle the watering hole 5 times before finally heading down for a drink. The rhino sure kept his distance from the lions who I don’t think saw his presence.
We made it back to camp by 11 p.m. It is interesting to note that you cannot get out of your car while travelling around the dirt road and you cannot leave the park before sunrise and you have to be in by sunset. The camp has a large fence around the perimeter and a very large swimming pool, snack bar, restaurant, and small gift shop (no internet!). There spotted several Tree and Ground Squirrels around the camp, as well as some HUGE insects (praying mantes type grasshoppers/walking sticks).
Our third day in the park was a two hour drive to exit the park and head north to the town of Rundu (on the border with Angola). We stopped to view some amazing birds, a herd of wildebeest, more giraffe, zebras, and Steenbok.
Although Etosha National Park is host to the “Big 5” (Lion, Leopard, Water Buffalo, Elephant, and Black Rhino), we were only fortunate enough to see the Lions and Black Rhino. But with Botswana, Kruger, Mozambique, Swaziland, Lesotho, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda ahead of us, I’m sure we’ll have plenty of opportunities for the rest!
As I type this blog on my laptop, we are driving 6 hours to Rundu. We just passed the sign that indicates 100 km left. The speedometer reads 120 km/hr (driving at 110 didn’t last long…but the roads are paved, flat and straight with hardly any traffic in sight). The odometer will top 5,000 km, and soon we’ll be in need of an oil change.
We just passed a Kavango rural village where their huts are made from mud and sticks and gardens and small farm animals surround their fenced-in property. In Namibia, most still live in homesteads and lead typical village lives. They have a strong kinship and extended families all live in the same community and are presided over by an elected headman. They subside on small stock-farming of cattle or goats. There is a small dirt road on either side of the paved road for horse-drawn transportation and moving their cattle/goat herds. 5
We decided to call yesterday a recommended lodge (N’Kwazi), but they have no riverside huts available, so we’ll wing it, as usual. Might try to cross the Okavango River into Angola if we can and check it out.
Well, my battery is running out so I better sign off. I probably won’t be writing another blog until next year (ha – 2 days away!). Which also reminds me, January 1st is our 16th Wedding Anniversary. How time flies!
Hope you all have a healthy, rewarding and fun-filled new year!
Lisa n Fred
Tags: Travel
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