The Dirt Cricket Abides

Still unable to leave Medellin due to the the incredible hospitality of our friend who owns Casa Kiwi (www.casakiwi.net) we needed another adventure to keep things fresh. It was recommended that we visit this little town of Guatape and more specifically walk to the top of La Piedra de Pinol. Not much to say here other than this was nice day of laughing at locals ascending the 688 steps in their sunday best. Why on earth people showed up wearing their nicest clothing to do something strenuous is beyond me but the overdressing theme has been persistent in Colombia…or maybe we are just slobs in the US?

At the end we were rewarded with fantastic views…something that is common place all over this country

Chirp Step Chirp

With the feeling of the big city pressing down on us we decided to hop a bus to the city of Santa Fe de Antioquia; a town founded in the mid 16th century and the original capital of the Antioquia region…before the big brother of Medellin took the title away about 50 yrs ago. This really is one of those story book Spanish Colonial pueblitos that you either love or hate…I love them by the way.

So first impression is this place is really fucking hot and the sun actually stings as it hits your face or the back of your neck. It turns into a constant game of running from shaded spot to shaded spot. Christie cannot take the heat so she retreats to our hospedaje to nap while Greg and I continue to wander around. Within 3 hours we have seen pretty much every square block of the city and our left to our favorite activity of people watching. I should also mention that at this time of year every town is having their annual Fiesta to celebrate the Christmas Season (not holiday season but straight up Catholic birth of Jesus Partying) which equates to booze and random fun.

Well random fun in this town equates to bull fighting…or so I was able to ascertain something was going to happen with bulls in this haphazard bambu (how they spell bamboo down here) coral. Greg and I saddle up to the outside of the ring and realize every spectator sitting on the fence rails is a child. Where are the men? Then every man in the town starts clambering into the ring of bambu to face the bull? I am wondering what the hell kinda bull fight this is as they are all taking heavy pulls from bottles of Ron (rum). Bull fight right? Well sorta. All of a sudden a 10 piece brass noisemaking group starts wailing away and next thing we know it’s actually a game of run away from the bull. Every guy jumps for his life onto the railings to avoid this really pissed off bull. The nonsense continues on for another 5 minutes until the bull starts to get tired (this is no real fighting butll) at which point every drunk becomes an inebriated matador. Waving beer adds, their hats or whatever they can to elicit a laughing “ole” from the crowd as they bravely dodge an exhausted bull. Well one old man took the cake b/c he was constantly tacking upwind the entire time he was so piss drunk yet he actually had a cape and was earning the loudest cheers; though i wonder if it was b/c he was the visibly most drunk person in the entire town. Eventually he did fall down facing the bull but was rescued by fellow friends dragging him away by the wrist. Just hilarious is all i could say…here is our hero:

after the excitement of the bull bonanza wore down it was back to wandering from shade spot to shade spot loving the old architecture and having to remind ourselves this was Colombia and not a movie.

OLE!!! chirp chirp

look here…i will continually add sets as I continue chirping down the continent and add modify old sets when I actually have time : http://www.flickr.com/photos/dirtcricket/sets/

when i figure out the youtube i’ll send that link as well b/c i have a handful of cool videos to share

So a quick little post for humor’s sake. There is a 55-60 year old man staying in the hostel that has been walking around with his underage (19yrs old) “girlfriend.” This is the 2nd time I have seen this in Colombia and personally it disgusts me…well retribution came do. As i was walking into the hostel this morning the cops were walking in at the same time and i was wondering if one of the idiot kids here had done a little too much cocaine or something of the sort. (this is a sad reality a lot of people do come to Colombia for the beautiful women and/or cheap drugs) Nope the old man had been drugged by his “girlfriend” and had all his money, laptop, credit cards, and passport stolen. Personally i laughed as i saw him being taken to the hospital in a drunken like stupor…serves him right. Number one who trusts a hooker, and # 2 if you are an old man and you travel to foreign countries for young women at the very least please stop reading my blog!

Chirp Chirp…serves him right

Now we have been staying in a friend of a friend’s hostel here in Medellin and have received a super warm welcome. Paul—the owner—basically left the states as I did 5yrs ago and never could move on from Medellin; and I can definitely see why. His business is pretty damn successful and he gets to live in a place that outshines anything I have known in the states. Basically I am seething with jealousy but this is definitely making me wonder if the secret dream I have been harboring of doing the same (opening my own business in Latin America) could be a reality. I just never imagined I would be so into a city in such a short time.

The city has a very impressive city-scape that was largely funded by the drug trade b/c the cocaine dealers needed someway to launder their profits. It is the same exact story in Miami. In fact at one point over 60% of high rise construction in Miami during the 80’s was being built by drug money. OK…so getting back to my point these same high rises all over Medellin are all capped with super pimping Penthouses b/c the drug dealers needed somewhere to live as well. So basically this city has an abundance of properties to rent with rooftop pools, open air staircases, and all the gaudy luxuries one can possibly think of. Paul is lucky enough to actually live in one of these places so our Christmas dinner wound up being about 5 Americans, 5 Colombianas, and a Mexican guy grilling out looking over the mountains and city and drinking plenty of wine and beer.

There really is no way I could have asked for more out of my Christmas…now I only need to figure out how I can come back to this place and make it work…or perhaps I can swing something in Peru. Let it be known the idea of coming back to the states and sitting in a cubicle once again is about as appealing to me as shoving splinters under my fingernails. As ridiculous as this may all sound let me live in La La land for the time being. Either way the idea of traveling the world seems to be disintegrating as I’m feeling a tug to take a shot at making it work in Latin America.

One nice part is that everything seems to have been ironed out between Christie and I. Now I need to figure out how to get them to wake up at a decent hour! Fuck how can they sleep away every damn day when we are abroad?

HO HO…Chirp Chirp…

Another 13hr overnight bus ride from hell and we arrived in Medellin—the famed hometown of Pablo Escobar. I was not sure what to expect but it certainly was not what we were presented with. We are staying in an area called Zona Rosa, which is definitely the upper middle class sction of town, and it is something special. The women are exceptional; the amount of eateries and bars is stunning, and basically the entire area is instantly more impressive than anything I have ever scene in the states. They have done a great job of keeping everything to small business and not allowing in chains. Basically every door is a bar, restaurant or club for about 6-8 square city blocks in this one neighborhood we are staying in. One thing I have noticed is that this is a very affluent area and unlike much of South America the women are an active consumer and business owner in the society. I wonder if I will see this trend continue as I move on.

We did get to fulfill something I have wanted and that was to see a Botero exhibit in Colombia. For those who don’t know he is definitely an artist who Colombians are very proud of and he is most famous for his sculptures of fat women. The misshapen theme of his work is carried to all subjects whether man, women, horse and whether it is a sculpture, painting or charcoal sketch. Anyhow, the exhibit we saw—in the fine art museum of Medellin—exceeded my expectations and my only disappointment was not having more time. Sadly we could not take photos inside so please check out my pics of Medellin and it will be obvious what is by Botereo.

The not so fun part is that I have been having a challenging fight with my intestines the last few days. It is improving but it was not the way I anticipated losing weight….

Chirp Chirp…stomach groaning

After our time in Tyrona we jumped another bussetta for the four-hour ride to Cartegena. The second we arrived in the city it was very impressive; the beautiful Spanish Colonial architecture is accented by the imposing 17^th & 16^th century stone Fortress of San Felipe, and an even older wall that circumnavigates the original old town. A quick scan of the skyline does make obvious that it also has an element of Miami and it is a big time city with real industry. As I understand it, Cartagena was the only city spared form the Narco Violencia that everyone associates with Colombia, and therefore has grown into a world-class town that even the wary vacationer should put on their list. It is so romantic it’s kinda sickening especially since I am solo, and frankly I do like it here but it is not what I am after on this trip. It’s too big of a city and I could be done with it in 48 hours. I want grit and reality or cities that are not 100% based on tourism, and certainly not Prada, Gucci, and Escada shops. It is stunningly beautiful, but this is for one who wants to bring their loved one for a coddled vacation with a mix of awesome culture. All the glitz that I am referring to is housed in the old city (the part of the city literally surrounded by a huge stone wall). As a side note it’s really fucking hot here and the sun just feels like it seers your flesh.

For those who do not know Caratagena has the massive rebuffs and fortresses b/c as the Spaniards were plundering South America’s riches, all the tonnage of silver and gold were sent to Cartagena before being sent by vessel to Spain. I have read a hypothesis that the country of Spain and the Spanish language may not exist today had the Spanish not sacked all of the Americas. Whether true or not, Spain’s actions did bring them fabulous wealth and their heritage is a courtesy of what they stole from Mexico through Peru.

One day we stumbled upon an awesome display of Afro-Colombian dance in the park of Simon Bolivar and I was blown away. To my friends who think they can dance…you can’t. Check this out and realize this same group was changing costumes and keeping this up for 4 HOURS!!!! We visited the Naval Museum which pretty much sucked except I did get this snappy shot of Greg holding a Bazooka…b/c Bazookas were common Naval weapons right? However, we loved the Museum of the Inquisition, which was bothersome but fascinating. Cartagena lends itself to just strolling through the streets. We did go out for a night of heavy drinking that ended at a place called Club Havana and I was amazed. Watching a group of older black salseros slam away on the horns, drums and microphone sent chills up my spine. The music was so damn good and infectious even my goofy ass had to dance until they stopped playing…I wondered if the Buena Vista Social Club had snuck out of Cuba and put on a performance for us. As I write this I must say I do dig the Afro-Colombian/Caribbean culture. What I also do like is that I get the sense that there is no marginalizing of the black community or any ethnicity in this city…maybe I am being naïve but it does give off a nice vibe.

Now the social dynamics of team McWangster and Fred hit a snag. We have separated hostels and are opposed to sharing a room again unless necessary. The crux of the problem seems to be Christie’s anxiety about returning to the real world, applying for schools and expecting too much in terms of creature comforts from Colombia. Greg and I lived together for 5 yrs and I think only once raised our voices at each other yet in this short period of time Christie and I have already toed off which has shocked me…I am not tolerant of any negativity (even if she has good reason to be stressed) in my world at this point and nor should I have to deal with “female needs” since I am single. Curling eyelashes and putting on makeup and general dragging of feet fucking drives me up a wall…we are living in hostels ferrr christ’s sake. Christie did admit to me she is a girlie girl so I suspect her needs for everything to be a bit more western may be real. Oh well I am single and have never been very good at dealing with the female creature and her idiosyncrasies. In the end we chatted it out and my earlier assumptions about the language were wrong but the external pressures of returning to the real life are wearing on her.

I do have to mention that the street food in Cratagena is over the top good. I am losing my mind over being able to eat well for less than $1.50. Some of the street food includes skewers of delicious meat, Arepas (corn meal fried around chicken, cheese, beef, pork, egg, or whatever are every where you look) and of course fruit everywhere you look.

Chirp Chirp….cannot stop sweating

Sorry for the slow blog postings but I am making sure to keep my journal as current as possible so I may do as I am today and enter about 4-5 entries at once.

After the first few days in Taganga my travel companions started to express a little displeasure with the scene…having recently been in SE Asia they were living with higher expectations of how their beaches should be in terms of looks and creature comforts. Even more so I think Christie may be having a hard time with the fact that English doesn’t cut the cheese here as there has been a growing and palpable sense of frustration in her general being. I am not sure what the problem is because traveling 3^rd world countries is just not going to ever be peaches and cream.

It is interesting as I speak to other travelers to realize here, more than anywhere else, you need to have some ability with the native language–Spanish. I personally have loved every second so far–except the bed bug bites around my ankles from one night of sleepless hell.

One story I love is that we did spend one day hiking along beaches to try and find something a bit more secluded for a little beach time. We happened along a nice cove that was not exactly secluded but still a good deal of distance from the main beach. Anyhow after a few hours there what the hell do we see but an ice cream man swimming with his ice cream cart across the darn bay…check out this pic knowing he had to swim at least 700-1,000 yds to make at most 20 bucks.

Back to the story, after my friends had enough with Taganga we decided that 3 days at idyllic unspoiled Caribbean beaches might soften the edges and give us what we need. It was a disappointment to leave, as I was hoping to get my dive certifications and spend a few weeks at the beach in Colombia and had been literally day dreaming of this for months…in fact I wanted to spend much more time at the beach than they had…oh well. This is the point when friends I had made along the way told me ‘that traveling with others is really hard and a questionable idea to begin with’…hmm I wonder. After about an hour in a busseta (think what we would consider a shuttle bus) we arrive at Parque Tyrona and had about an hour hike through the jungle to the beach. It was hot & humid but a very easy hike nonetheless. I did get the sense we were going somewhere special as numerous burros (donkeys) and mini horses were passing us loaded with everything form propane tanks to eggs. This did result in a persistent stench of manure…but hey I’m in the coastal jungle of Colombia this is fucking cool…who really cares (right?). Well we arrive at the beach after a bit and whoa it is a bit inspiring. Outside of the uber cheesy Colombian girl making her boyfriend take pictures of her in sexy poses (she wasn’t even that hot) it was perfect!

Greg and I looked like two idiots snapping away with our huge cameras but I did not give one shit b/c this is the only time in my life I was going to see this. The entire surroundings were unspoiled Caribbean beaches with palm forests coming right to the shoreline. This beauty continued on for the next 1.5 hours as we hiked westward deeper and deeper into the national park. At least 80% of that time was on the beach as opposed to a trail. Finally we arrive at the final destination of Cabo San Juan and it was a bit startling. There were quite a few people in tents and the main palapa had about 35 hammocks to rent and we may have gotten the last three.

So at this point we now get into the mode of beach time, reading and sleeping. Socializing with other travelers, eating wild coconuts off the ground, playing soccer with one of the local boys, and I even found some gorgeous people at the nude beach that I had to snap a shot of…you click here to see them. (work safe so go aheadClick here) I put a nice dent in the Che Gueverra book that has been an anchor in my pack and basically was “tranquillo” the entire time. Life is good. Greg and I did a short side hike to an ancient pre-colombian ruin on our last day in the park that actually is being freed form the jungle to this very day. There is an indigenous family living at the site and it appears they are conscripted to clear the jungle and maintain the trails. It was a bit odd as they were vehemently opposed to us taking any pictures of them.

Next stop Cartegena! Hopefully the Dirt Cricket can find zeee Joan Wilder.

Hey all, many are asking so i should mention I have figured out the photo nonsense but will not be sending out the link for a couple days (sorry). I also realized I forgot a critical piece of info…so hurry up and open Google Maps…I have been in Taganga Colombia (near Santa Marta). That said, I am entering the NIZ (No Internet Zone) tomorrow and will not be here to answer, look at, or even acknowledge anything but the fabled “Here and Now.”

So go back to Google and look up Tyrona National Park and that is where I may tanning my lily white ass on the nude beaches of Colombia. At the very least I will be finding out what my telephoto lens is capable of! Yeehaw boobies (getting lonely on the road).

Not much to report unless you want to know about hikes to secluded beaches, cold beers on the beach, tanning on the beach, reading on the beach, sleeping on the beach…it’s all so dreadfully boring that I will spare you.

What was very cool was watching fishermen come onto shore with the day’s catch, walk right in the the kitchen and then the same catch shows up onto my plate. When I asked what kind of fish they had at this beach side palapa, I received a curious response. Within a few minute my waitress was carrying a tray with 6 different freshly cleaned fish on it. Wow my eye just widened as I spied a nice size Red Grouper of some sort. A quick discussion and bang I had fish with rice, onions and amazing salsa served in front of me. What was pretty cool was drinking in the sand (4 beers) fresh fish dinner and it was a whopping $7 which is outrageously expensive in Colombia

I am about to sign off but the last thing i want to point out is the fruit. I am drinking Jugos Naturales (fresh fruit juice squeezed in front of you) and eating lots of Pina, Papaya, Bananas, Watermelon….oh god does it just go on and on. Anyhow this is the best fucking fruit ever. So sweet, so perfectly ripe and delicious. The odd part is that I bet it all would be tossed away in the US b/c it does not look the part of our sanitized perfectly manicured produce. It’s bruised, ripe and so juicy it runs all over my arm every time i take a bight that i wouldn’t ever ask for anything different.

Yummy food abounds

Chirp Chirp

Well Thursday picked up after I finished my last journal entry. I was waiting around and drinking too much coffee and finally Greg & Christy show up at my hostel to join me for the next 3.5 weeks of my travels. What a nice pleasure it was to see them as it had been since August since we last hung out. I marveled at how my Irish friend and his girl were many shades darker than I and they were surprised at how long my mop has gotten. Yes folks the nappy dreads of the dirt cricket are impressive these days. The mullet definitely has grown and i no longer have to worry about sunburns on the nape of my neck.

Anyhow, after the Mcwangster (Greg & Christy) showed up I introduced them around the hostel and we quickly jumped to some sightseeing I wanted to get done before leaving Bogotá. So we ventured out to the Police Museum to see how Pablo Escobar had finally been defeated. I was having a blast of a time as we were looking at the Nickel Plated 9mm handguns, gold encrusted Harleys and other ridiculous displays of wealth that had been confiscated from the Cartels. As the tour progressed all of a sudden I see Christy slumping over and passing out. Greg and I had to gently bring her down to the ground and bring her back by slapping her on the face. This happened twice and was actually pretty dramatic as the Police in their dramatic looking military uniforms were all hovering around us. I knew in the back of my mind the altitude was getting to Christy but still the thoughts of an ER room in Colombia was pretty low on my list of good ideas. Fast forward and we have put her to bed and Greg and I decide drinking is a good idea.

After downing a few beers we decided to start wandering around taking in the night life. It was a true oddity as
there were 4 Americans together (Greg, myself, & 2 others we picked up before going out) wandering around La Candelaria and mixing it up with the locals. Loads of fun and some of the best damn street food and we then wandered back to the hostel.

We then left the next morning with our new friend Bridgette for the bus ride from hell! So to all of you people who keep telling me how lazy i have been with the blog keep in mind that i spent 21 hours on a bus with one stop. Oh yeah it had no air conditioning and the people all around me were snoring away. So excuse me if this hellish image i cannot possibly paint left me a little unmotivated to log on yesterday. The only thing in my mind was the beach and a fruity drink with Rum. Mission Accomplished!!!! That has dual meaning as my first intent of the trip was to hustle up to the Caribbean Coast and spend time turning my skin a very nice shade of brown. In fact my friends I am siging off now and walking down to the beach to crisp my flesh. Enjoy this picture as it is the view from my room: (that little cove down there is a beach surrounded by mountains and just an amazing Afro-Colombian culture…I’ll write more about this later)

Chirp Chrip going to sizzle my flesh