ChinaTeacher

CHENGDU    (Photos – Look for My Links on the right side of this screen and click on Photos!) 

The Chinese refer to Sichuan Province (southwest China) as the ‘heavenly kingdom’ , due to its abundance of natural resources and cultural heritage (as quoted by Lonely Planet).   I took advantage of this year’s one-week October National Holiday to travel to Sichuan’s capital city of Chengdu.  It is home to fantastic sidestreets, great teahouses, Sichuan Opera and the Giant Pandas. 

 I arrived in Chengdu and sought lodgings at Holly’s Hostel where I had a private room reserved (with shared bath) for 100 RMB per night.  Holly’s is located just across the street from Wuhou Temple, and set deep in Chengdu’s Tibetan neighbourhood, a fantastic location for shopping and dining!  Jinli Street, a newly constructed ‘ancient’ street can be found next to Wuhou Temple – it features shopping, snack foods, restaurants, galleries, teahouses, arts and crafts and exhibits of Sichuan folk customs – it even rates its own Starbucks!  As a lone traveler, I was delighted to find such an interesting spot to spend my evenings, yet in such close proximity to my hostel! 

I have to say that Chengdu is number one in my books for having the best western food in China!  I tried the highly recommended Peter’s Tex-Mex Grill my first night in Chengdu.  It was fantastic!  My table mates and I sampled their enormous beef hamburger and fries (25 RMB), potato skins and enchiladas.  Everything tasted better than all the western food I have consumed in China over the past 3 years.  Oh, and their dessert menu includes keylime pie, buttery cinnamon rolls, chocolate cake and ice cream sundaes!   Even my hostel’s restaurant has better western food than most western restaurants in my city of Hangzhou! On Monday, I headed off to Chengdu’s Research Base for Giant Panda Breeding, located just north of the city.  It is home to native Chinese endangered species such as the Giant Panda and the Red Panda (they look like raccoons).  It was necessary for us to go quite early in the morning, as this seems to be the only time to catch the Pandas when they are ‘active’.   Apart from eating ginormous amounts of bamboo, they sleep most of the day, I am told.  The pandas are not caged; rather, their living quarters simulate their natural environment, complete with lush green grounds, over 400 kinds of trees (including Gingko), numerous varieties of bamboo which is their primary source of nourishment, rolling hills, lakes and birds.  I was also impressed with how well maintained the entire facility is, having observed the staff doing ‘poop and scoop’ duty throughout the morning.While in Chengdu, I simply had to see the famed Sichuan Opera and Folk Performing Arts.  For 120 RMB (some other places are cheaper), we were transported to a fabulous facility where we were seated in front of low rattan tables holding tea and snacks for our enjoyment.  Tea was replenished by special ‘Sichuan-style’ teapots long narrow spouts which the pourer used to fill our cups from as far as 5 feet away!  We were even offered Chinese robes to wear during the performance as the evening weather was sure to cool off – such luxury was well worth the 120 RMB!  I quickly made friends with two American women sitting next to me – turns out that they are both teaching in Quanzhou, and staying at Sam’s Hostel in town.  (Their accommodation was much nicer than mine, but Sam’s doesn’t have a big common room for travelers to meet, an essential element for hostel living, in my opinion.)  We saw a number of performances including Stick-Puppets, Hand-Shadows, Baixi Zhengba Opera, and a classic ‘clown play’ combining humour and Sichuan Opera.  But, the highlight for everyone was the “Changing Faces” performance exhibiting the magic skill of Sichuan Opera.  Several performers changed their elaborate face masks several times, faster than the blink of an eye.  And, from just a few feet away, I still could not figure out how they do it!  Unbelievable!  The evening’s performances featured elaborate costumes and traditional music instruments.  Of course, everything was available for purchase from the opera house shops as we exited!

THOUSAND BUDDHA CLIFFS   (Photos – Look for My Links on the right side of this screen and click on Photos!) 

I was told not to bother visiting the Thousand Buddha Cliffs – they said it’s not a big enough attraction.  But I am so glad I did!  However, it was not a direct or easy trip to make.  First of all, I had to take the long-distance bus to Jiajiang Bus Station from Leshan City.  Then, in the middle of the highway, they transferred me to a local bus heading to Jiajiang.  The people were so kind!  On the local bus, the lady ticket-taker was amazing.  Jiajiang appears to have a very high ‘seniors’ population, as most of the bus passengers were quite old.  At every stop, she would give them a ‘hand up’ onto the bus and then make sure they were settled before letting the driver move on.  When they saw me, I greeted them in Chinese which brought huge smiles to their faces!  We enjoyed some ‘simple’ conversations, with everyone saying gracious goodbyes to me as they left the bus.  Finally we got to my stop, and 3 of the old ladies joined me during the walk through a small village leading to the cliffs.  They told me they visit this place every day because of its numerous hillside temples.  Unfortunately I didn’t have time to also check out the hillside temples with them so we soon parted ways as I spotted the ticket booth for the Thousand Buddha Cliffs. 

The toll for this ‘small’ attraction was a mere 7 RMB ($1).  I asked if they could store my bags for a small charge (I was enroute to the holy mountain of Emei Shan that day), and the man agreed, but refused to take any money for this extra service.  I love visiting small villages! 

My first view of the cliff carvings practically blew me away!   I don’t know if there are actually a thousand Buddha carvings, but there were certainly a large number of incredible carvings of Buddhas, and other religious deities.  For the many locals who pass these cliffs each day on their way to work, the carvings present a wonderful diversion for those who have to lug their bicycles up the steep steps to the village.

Walking back through the village, I was quite taken with the activities going on there.  A large group of musicians had gotten together and seemed to be having a great old time.  They beckoned me to join them, but I knew they would probably ask me to sing, so I refused and continued on, hoping to catch the next local bus to get to Emei Shan by lunch time.  The ticket taker on the second bus wasn’t half as nice as the first one I met.  But, I did make friends with many of the old ladies on board.

I got a little worried at the bus station when the staff there told me “miao” (No) when I asked for the bus to Emei Shan – I was shocked!  If there was no bus, then how was I going to get there??  But the lady told me to wait a minute and sure enough, after about 10 minutes she pointed down the street to where a blue bus was stopped.  Apparently I was to get on that bus.  It was indeed headed to Emei Shan!  My side trip to the Thousand Buddhas Cliffs was a most satisfying one.

EMEI SHAN

Mount Emei is the highest of the four sacred Buddhist mountains in China, reaching a height of 10,337 ft.  Temples and monasteries are scattered over the mountain and pilgrims spend days climbing to the top of Mt. Emei to offer prayers to the Buddha.

I stayed at the Teddy Bear Hostel at Emei Shan (next to Baoguo Temple bus station) and couldn’t have been happier.  I got the most beautiful and luxurious private room (with bath!) for just 150 RMB.  I was told the price would be going up to 300 RMB the next day because of the National Holiday.  But, wow, hostels have certainly come a long way.  You can pay 30-40 RMB for a bunkbed in a dorm with shared facilities, right up to a luxurious private room with bath like mine.

My time was short, so I immediately took the easy way up the mountain.  I jumped on a bus which takes you to Jieyin Dian Hall, close to the top of the mountain (2 hrs each way).  From there it is a 5-minute Cable Car to the summit, or so I’m told.  But, after arriving at Jieyin Dian Hall, it was so foggy that I couldn’t believe the Cable Car to the Peak, just a 20-minute walk away, would be any better.  So, I got back on the bus and came down the mountain.  Big Mistake!  I found out later that ‘all was clear’ at the Peak – damn!  I wouldn’t have time to do it again before I left Emei Shan for Chengdu. 

I did meet two wonderful girls on the bus coming down on the bus.  Both are from Shanghai, near where I live, but one of them attends university in Chengdu.  I do hope to visit Emei Shan again, but it will be much better if I come with a small group, so we can do some hiking and stay overnight in some monasteries, and also see some of the wild monkeys living on the mountain.  I’m coming back!