US here we come

I visited Columbia University at Morningside Heights, between Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue, at the edge of Harlem, yesterday (Wednesday 14th May). It was my first outing on my own, without Joey or Hannah or Joan. I had arranged to meet with people at the University’s Oral History Research Office, the first oral history centre established anywhere, back in 1948 by the eminent historian, Alan Nevins. For me, it was akin to a Muslim visiting Mecca.

I usually wake up early, around 6.00 am, and Joey, Hannah and Joan are usually still deeply asleep. Thus, I left early for the campus, catching a taxi on W42nd Street around 7.30 am. The traffic was surprisingly sparse (though half an hour later, traffic and hundreds of people swarmed out of nowhere). The taxis, incidentally, are everywhere – the most common form of vehicular transport in Manhattan. We have found the drivers to be efficient and honest. Rarely have we spent more than $15 on a fare. The subway (railway) is also efficient and good value at $2.00 a ticket.

It was a beautiful day: blue skies, warm with a cooling breeze.

I alighted from the cab at the caste-iron gates of the central campus on Amsterdam Avenue and strolled through them. As soon as I had entered the campus grounds, I was overcome by a nostalgia for my days as a university undergraduate. There’s a tranquility on this type of old campus, room to think. Columbia has stunning old buildings, huge by the standards on Australian campuses, but confined within a relatively small area. There are beautifully maintained lawns and statues everywhere – Jefferson, Hamilton, a large bronze lion donated by a former student who became a famous sculptor, an iron-worker monument outside the department of engineering, a version of ‘The Thinker’ outside the school of philosophy.

My appointment was at the Butler Library, a huge columnade building that I ridiculoulsy thought I might have difficulty finding! It’s directly opposite the main library of the university. There’s a nice lawn area, an ‘agora’, in between. I photographed both libraries. The Butler has the names of the great thinkers of western civilization engraved along its upper facade. There was a great vibe looking upon these secular monuments.

Something that disappointed me, however, was the absence of any sign of student dissent or rebellion. It was all too tranquil, too conformist – reminiscent of the image of the 1950s American campus, the period when ideology was said to have ended. There were signs on sections of lawn admonishing people not to be noisy, not to litter, not to smoke, etc. Over the top, I thought, especially the bit about being noisy.

The students seemed docile – those outside just lounged around (lucky things!), talking on their mobiles (cell-phones, as they’re called over here) while having a cigarette. No-one was giving out leaflets, there was no graffitti anywhere, no posters on walls – just some neatly hung banners by Christian groups inside the Student Union building. I saw these from outside the building, as one cannot gain admission unless one has a student card. (Talk about creating an ivory tower). Still, things turn into their opposite. The 1950s gave rise to…. the 1960s!

In 1968, Columbia was one of the campus hot-spots in the world youth rebellion. I stumbled upon an exhibition dedicated to that rebellion – but it was in the Manuscript and Rare Book section of the library; presumably not a commonly visited section. In the campus area along Broadway, there was an alternative bookshop – the only one we’ve seen – and it had in its window a poster/calendar commemorating the 1968 events. I wanted to buy a copy but the bookshop didn’t open till 10.00, when I had my appointment.

I spent about two hours wandering the campus and the section of Broadway alongside it. At last, I found some good strong coffee – at Starbucks! I’m not complaining, as I have been desperate for some good coffee since landing in the USA over two weeks ago. Starbucks is warm and inviting – and has some excellent music playing in the background. On this occasion – how New York! – it was a recording of Thelonious Monk doing ‘Blue Monk’. There I was, sitting in this warm friendly place, listening to Monk, watching all the locals and students going about their daily routines in the street outside, along the famous Broadway.

Some photos:

The Butler Library, Columbia University, NY

The university library, Columbia University.

Is he thinking that the philosophers have only interpreted the world – the point is to change it?!

The 1968-2008 poster/calendar in the bookshop window on Broadway.

The bookshop from across the road – it’s on the ground floor on the corner.

Old local newspaper from 1968 as part of library exhibition.

Part of exhibition about Columbia uprising in 1968 at Butler Library.