The Inca trail: Day 3
Unsure of how our legs would feel after yesterday’s exertions up to the “Big Pass”, we fell out of the tent slightly later than planned but still very early – 5.25am! Across to the dining tent for a quick breakfast of boiled eggs, pancakes, jam and coffee, and we were ready to tackle passes two and three.
Fredy glanced upwards and saw rain in the air, so on with the waterproofs for the first and hopefully last time on the trail. The rest of the campsite was slowly waking up (unsurprising considering the rowdy noise of the night before that seemed to go on for ever) as we climbed above them towards the first ruin of the day.
By the time we reached the defensive fortress of Runturacay (egg shaped building) we could no longer see the “refugee” camp below us for mist and driving rain. Oh well, at least the ruins were still (just) visible, and we learnt that these again controlled access to Machu Picchu. Upwards we went, on a relatively steep path but nothing as stamina-sapping as yesterday. And still the porters danced around us, their ponchos hiding huge packs that made them look like something found near Notre Dames in Paris.
At the top of the second pass (13,116 feet) we breathed for a moment or two before setting off downwards along an initially steep set of stairs that passed through a cave-like structure for a small part of the way. The cloud was really in now, and the rain came heavier and heavier, making conversation limited and the going fairly miserable. In around 40 minutes we were at the foot of a set of stairs (Em’s favourites!!) leading up to a ruin which peaked out of the gloom mysteriously above us. Up we went to discover a set of religious and residential buildings (Sayacmarca) beautifully perched on a lofty ridge – oh if only we could look down either side of them, but alas there was no respite from the rain and cloud swirling around us. The translation is ‘dominant town’, and we could certainly believe it to be from what Fredy told us of its purpose here in the clouds. An aqueduct channelled water from the continuing ridge above the settlement into the buildings, feeding three fountains each with its own significance. The first, and purest, was for religious purposes, the second for the inhabitants, and the third for irrigation of the terraces that abutted the town.
Back down the steps, past some ignorant individuals who’d decided to perch themselves on the steps to the detriment of others, and down a by now carefully paved trail that is true Inca, and wonderous in its construction. A funny thing happened here, indicative of a fair few of the people who “do” the Inca Trail. It’s unusual to find anyone approaching from the opposite direction of travel on the trail, and so we were at first surprised and then bemused by the individual who walked towards us. “Is that ruin worth seeing?” he asked, pointing up towards Sayacmarca from where we’d come. We told him yes, and smiled as he pushed past us and retraced his steps. There are far too many people on the trail who take not one single bit of notice of where they are or what they are doing, and he was one. Hope he enjoyed the extra exertion, that’s all we can say!
Still the rain came down, and such a pity too since we could imagine the stupendous views all around us as we passed through cloud forest (literally, today!), covered in rich green ferns, tendrils, pretty flowers and a whole host of different smells.
Lunch was taken early (we’d left early this morning!!), and at the top of the third pass, still in mist but without such torrential rain. More great food was delivered, a packet of cigarettes passed around the grateful support team, and then we were on our way again, with the mist slowly lifting and more of this wonderful environment beginning to appear. Somewhat appropriately, and very shortly after lunch, we visited Phuyupatamarca, or “town above the clouds”, which was quite true, apart from the fact we were still in bits of cloud rather than above them. Again these ruins were spectacular, with fountains, flower terraces and fine stonework inter-mingled with more coarse architecture signifying more functional buildings. Below us were a mere 1,700 stunningly constructed Inca steps, each perched above the other and threatening bouts of vertigo for all who descended them. The arrival of one certain group brought very loud (and completely unnecessary) exclaimations such as “WOW”, “JEEEEZUZ” and the funniest of them all, “HOLY SMOKE”, which for sure made the wildlife scatter from view for everyone else. Ah well……
And then we began to see the world beneath our feet, not just these knee-crippling stairs we were going down. Very slowly, almost imperceptibly at first, the swirling mist split in two and we caught a glimpse of the roofs of the town of Aguas Calientes, a thousand miles below. And then it was gone, but not for long. The sun had arrived and the spectacular views we’d craved all day were all around us. The terracing of Winay Wayna far below, our first sight of the River Urambamba in three days (and you could hear it, from all this way away), soaring mountains all around, hummingbirds flitting between dripping flower heads. This first view was almost too much for the senses to absorb all at once, and we spent a good 15 minutes just watching the spectacle, mesmerised by all its beauty. (Meanwhile, numerous loud mouthed individuals continued their relentless push towards the beer kiosk at the final campsite, appearing oblivious to all that was around them).
We branched off the path above the final campsite and visited the ruins of Winay Wayna, impressive but not as good as from far away, strangely. And we looked to our left quite frequently, glancing at the mountainside that hid our true goal in this adventure, Machu Picchu, tantalisingly close and yet invisible, at least for another day or so until we traversed this mountainside and came upon the great Inca citadel in the sky.
The campsite was as packed as it could be that night, but sitting on our stools and watching the sun set across the snow capped mountains to the east while a vibrant rainbow arced from the valley floor to the peak directly opposite us brought all the tranquility we needed at the end of day three.
We paid tribute to our cook and porters after dinner in the form of a few grateful words and tips for each of them, before crashing out for our final night’s sleep ahead of Machu Picchu. Let’s hope the rain of today isn’t repeated tomorrow…..
Tags: Peruvian tales
mihai